henricus

<p>Mr. Ho,<br>

I think the responses you received are as general as your question. It is difficult to convey to you in a paragraph or two, the complexities of this artist's work. Photoshop is merely a tool, so is the lens, the camera, the exposure, the composition and so on. One can not simply say that any portion of these tools can be seen as "better" than the other. Like anything, you have to learn the basics, which these posters have tried to convey to you. Start with that and build your artistic renditions from your own combination of these tools. Yours is a common question which is posed often. It is all part of the learning process and this is the first step. To see someone's art, appreciate it and wanting to do the same. Unfortunately, wanting to do it is only the beginning. Proceeding to learn in earnest is hard, but enjoyable work.</p>

<p>You lucky so and so! What a find! Congrats!</p>

<p>Try the 135/3.5. It is much cheaper than the 135/2.8 and a tad smaller. The quality is fantastic and you won't find a better portrait lens for the money.</p>

<p><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2536/4140213657_7d156d1992.jpg" alt="" width="400" height="500" /></p>

<p>I like the fact that so many folks still use the D70. This is still a great camera and bully to those who still use them!</p>

<p>I love mine!<br>

<img src="http://farm1.static.flickr.com/101/251286228_715ffd430d_o.jpg" alt="" width="491" height="368" /></p>

<p>You can't go wrong with any of the E lenses.</p>

<p>I love my 50/1.4 Ai'd from the factory. It takes great images with its' own distinctive look. I think it is the old coating, I'm not sure, but the images have a classic look to them.</p>

<p>I just gave my LX3 to my daughter, because I decided I needed a little more control with my walk around camera. The LX3 is a great little camera and I really enjoyed using it. The size can not be beat. I switched to the Canon G11, because if affords a little more control has better low-light capabilities. Of course it may not compare to a DSLR, even the classic D70, but isn't life all about compromises?</p>

<p>Beauty is in the eye of the beholder, but dang that is an ugly camera! ;-) Who cares it takes great images and if you are attacked by a bear you can club him with it. ;-)</p>

<p>Of course I have my own homely cousin of the FED 5C.<br>

<img src="http://farm1.static.flickr.com/80/251288909_0870656cf5_o.jpg" alt="" width="576" height="432" /></p>

<p>I'm reminded of a comment my pop made when I was a kid and I felt sure I had to choose between two "things". "Why not both, you should never limit yourself if you can help it." Of course he said it with a grin. Take 'em both. The G10/11's aren't that big and you won't even notice you have it. It will be like having a few extra rolls of film in your Minolta bag.</p>

<p>I have one, but haven't used it lately. It is a very nice cult classic camera.</p>

<p>Great information Jim! Thanks.</p>

<p>Another vote for the 35/2.8. Depending on what you want it for, the 135/3.5 is also dandy, although not as fast. But if you have the 50, you'll be okay.</p>

<p>Which camera do you have? As stated above the 1.8 D will not autofocus on some bodies.</p>

<p>I've never had it happen to me, but my brother had this problem with a lens and it was broken. Luckily it sounds like it is still under warranty. Send it back. Good luck.</p>

<p>Oops, sorry for the confusion. I assumed they were all called Spotmatics. My bad.</p>

<p>You have to shoot the image correct first. I know this sounds simplistic, but the fact of the matter is that PS will only do so much. You have to know how you want the image to look before you take it. PS is good for fine tuning, but I wouldn't depend on it for the look this fella got. As others have posted, there is a lot you can do with adjusting, but you can get it damn close with the camera if you take the time to do it. That said, there are a number of ways to increase the shadows in PS. The easiest is by using the "Shadow Highlight" function. However, you have to have an image that has the dark shadows already. It isn't as simple as taking an image that is exposed with even lighting although, this can be done to, but not with a lot of other work too.</p>

<p>I have a preference for the 135/3.5. You can't beat the size and if you are in an unfamiliar place, distance will matter. Take the Oly and the 135.</p><div></div>

<p>Totally Zuiko! The look that is. I love OLYMPUS!</p>

<p>Very nice indeed! I need to get into Minolta lenses.</p>

<p>Let me recommend the Olypmus OM1 with a 50/1.8 to start. You will love the size and the look the Zuiko lens produces is totally retro! I think you can get these for under a "C" note if you look carefully. If you really want to go old school, try the Kodak folders like the Jiffy. You will need to be a little smarter to use it, but the look will be totally retro. Good luck and post your pics!</p><div></div>

<p>I have the Spotmatic with the meter, but I have yet to find a nice mint one without the meter. I say get it, you will learn more with this camera than one with a meter.</p>

<p>You can tighten the diopter by taking the top off. The lever can be tightened by putting more tension on the flat spring. However, it might be easier to simply put a piece of gaffer's tape on the outside to hold it in place. I know what you mean it is a pita.</p><div></div>

<p> ...</p><div></div>

<p>Try <a href="http://www.kyphoto.com/classics/">Favorite Classics</a> they have a great forum and pros who I think will be able to help. Good luck!</p>

<p>PS. I don't have the 7s, but I do have the 9 and the 11!</p><div></div>