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I have the same problem. No new views in the last 48 hours despite numerous ratings.

All around, Tri-X and HP5+. Both are fast films, and the grain is nice at 120.

I was attracted to the way Nikon combined the older mechanical technology with the newer electronic interphase. I preferred the aperture ring to Canon's dials, and the long-lived, venerable F mount which allowed for compatibility between their AF and MF bodies. But if the newer AF bodies and G lenses are any indication, Nikon seems to be changing it's mind on that.

Good beginner camera kit. Good deal to, as long as the camera is in good working conditions. Make sure the lens apertures, and camera shutter speeds, and light meter all work.

ID-11 and D-76 are said to be essentially the same developer, and if

you go to digitaltruth.com's "Massive Development Chart" they are

lumped together with the same developing times e.g. HP5+ rated 400,

1+1 dilution at 20°C/68°F is 13 min. However I've always noticed

that Ilford seems to treat them as different developers: for HP5+ :

13 min. for ID-11, and 11 min. for D-76. This is also true of other

Ilford films. At first I thought that Ilford was simply repeating

Kodak's times for these films, but I haven't found any Kodak

recommendations for Ilford films on the Kodak site, so where do the

differences come from?

Why don't look for and contact for local photographers doing the photography your'e interested in. Are there any colleges or art schools you can look into? They should have models that are willing to pose nude.

As someone with an art education from college, I can understand how intimidating it can be when starting a class and thinking "These people are so much better than me". That's natural, especially when you don't think your'e own artistic background isn't as deep as others. My advice is not to be to overly concerned about what other people are doing and concentrate on developing your own skills. Your'e a beginner, so you can't expect to be "artistic" overnight. It takes time to develop any kind of creative ability, so be patient and take advantage of your classmates by learning from them, since your'e all there to acquire the same set of skills.

Another method: Create a new layer and fill it with white to start. Apply the clouds filter (Filter/Render/Clouds)as many times as you like, reduce the opacity of the layer to 50% or whatever lookes good. Dodge/burn to modify the fog pattern if needed, and change the hue or color balance if you want. Alternately, you can also use the gradient tool with the dodge/burn tool.

The FM2N (and presumably the FM3) will synch up to 1/250. The even more basic FM10 will synch up to 1/125 I believe. Don't even consider the N65.

I don't know of any easy way to manipulate the cross-processed negatives to achieve a more naturalistic color scheme. But many professionals cross-process films to specifically get that funky color cast. You can send the negatives to a professional printer, or manipulate them yourself in the traditional darkroom or digitally to try to make the best out of it, but I doubt that you can totally reverse the effects of cross-processing.

If you dont want to do color processing (C41) in those countries, then TMAX 400 CN is clearly not a good choice. As TMax 400 CN is a chromogenic film, your'e going to have to process it in C41 chemistry anyway for best results, not in D76 or other B&W developers.

 

Chromogenic films generally do better with overexposure than with underexposure, which is why the people in Kodak where recommending that you can shoot at a lower ASA/ISO without changing development. Don't expect this film to behave exactly like panchromatic B&W films, so the Zone system as you know it doesn't apply here in exactly the same way.

 

If you have to mess with development, it's generally better to push than to pull chromogenic films.

 

Kodak probably didn't tell you, but TMAX 400cn has a slight orange cast similar to other chromogenic films, so this isn't the best film to do conventional B&W darkroom work with either. Portra B&W 400 has an even stronger orange cast, which makes it more suitable for color printing.

 

If you wan't to do your own B&W processing and printing, stick with the classics: Tri-X, HP5, Neopan, Agfapan.

Just to add what was said - many of todays mid-price autofocus cameras from Nikon, Canon, Minolta, Pentax, etc. that are suitable for the amateur photographer, but the old Nikons are still deserving of attention. A used F3 or FM2 is a good investment, and can be paired with, say, an N90s (F90x), another camera which is going down in price. There really isn't a single best camera, just a number of good cameras to choose from in your price range. The F5 is great, but you'd need to invest a lot of money for the body and lens.

Speaking off the present line-up, anything from the price of the N80 (F80)and up is aimed at the more "serious" photographer. The top-of-the-line F5 is aimed at the dedicated pro market. There are still many discontinued "F" models that are still good cameras if you want to stick to manual focus.

I had the same problem when I tried to use the auto-bracketing function. I put in fresh batteries and re-attached the data back, and it seemed to fix the problem.

Depends on how deeply your'e planning to go into digital imaging. As Photoshop is pretty much the standard in graphics software and digital image manipulation, it can do a lot of things your'e probably not yet aware of, and requires considerable time to learn. If all you're looking for is a quick and dirty way to produce web images or inkjet prints, you can get "Photoshop Elements" Adobe's Photoshop lite. Other possible alternatives are CorelDraw and the Gimp, but I don't have enough experience with those programs to do a comprehensive review, but the Windows versions of the Gimp is available for download at Gimp.org and other sites if you want to try it out.

If you have any process in Photoshop that uses a large number of steps, use the actions palette. At the bottom of the palette and click on the "new action" icon (or open up the actions menu and select the "new action" option). Name the action, press "record" and perform all the steps you need to apply to your image, and Photoshop records every step. When done, click on the icon at the bottom of the palette to stop the recording. You now have a preset action that you can recall by using the "play" icon. Photoshop will perform the steps automatically.

You need to go to the bookstore, library, or photography store to get more in-depth information about processing. For some basic information about B&W, the "Black and White World" site has an article that covers the basics: http://www.photogs.com/bwworld/bwbeginner.html ,

And the "New York Institute of Photography" website has an ongoing B&W series that covers, among other things, film processing: http://www.nyip.com/sub_idx_pgs/referidx/ref_technique_idx.html

Go to Ilford's site, for reccomendations. I tend to prefer ID11 at 1:1

 

http://ilford.com/html/us_english/bw.html

Even if the lab did a good job processing the film, they' ussually

flunk when it comes to printing. That's because printing is an

artform in itself that requires a lot of skill and patience. Either

learn to process and print your own images, or go to a printer of

a pro lab and develop a good working rapport with him/her.