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waite_watson

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Posts posted by waite_watson

  1. <p> Buy 1 pizza get one free? They deliver. Will they deliver to the States? I have an A1,AE1 & AE1 program. They are excellent cameras. Have the squeal professionally addressed & shot away for the rest of your life basically. You don't really need any other 35mm SLR. The 1/60 a sec. syn may seem a bit slow,BUT no one in their right mind would be shooting color film these days anyway. The best/most common B&W films are ASA 100,Combine with a standard yellow filter (-1stop) which you should be using anyway with B&w and you're perfect.</p>
  2. <p> I have 2 lenses (28mm f2.8 & 135mm F3.5 both 49mm filter size) I assumed these were Celtics because they were so inexpensive when I bought them,but neither one actually says 'Celtic' in it anywhere just "Minolta MD Japan". So are they Celtics or not? The pictures of Celtic lenses I've seen on line all had Celtic written on them?</p>
  3. <p>Wait a minute. I've been developing film for years & I am using dark plastic bottles from Freestyle & I too,just this past week,have encountered the same problem with fixer for the very first time. I think there's something else going on here. I'm using Freestyle's own brand of powered fixer in the 1 gallon envelop. What brand,type,formulation of fixer are you guys using?</p>
  4. <p>I'm down to 2 films & two developers. I shoot only Tmax 100 & develop in Tmax developer & Arista EDU 100 (AKA Fomapan 100) & develop in Caffenol. I used to used D76. Then there was a time during which D76 was only available in 1 gallon envelops. The mixed developer does not store well & I develop so little that most of a mixed gallon of D76 would go to waste. I thought Rodinal would be a good fix. I did not like the graininess,but could live with it (always bearing on mind that any cropping need be done in camera). I loved the economy (so little is used) & what I read about it's shelf life. Then I developed a couple rolls from a bottle of rodinal (the last little bit in the mostly used up bottle just a couple of years old) and the negs came out extremely thin. I decided then & there I could not trust it & began looking for something different. I've gotten better results from homemade caffenol (with Arista EDU ultra/AKA Fomapan 100) than I ever got with the commercial developers I tried (D76,Tmax). I would suggest you give it a try.</p>
  5. <p> I'd take the 50. Better yet a small pocket camera with a wideish lens (C 40mm in 35mm equivalence) and make the focus of the day fun with the family rather than photography. I'd second Disneyland over Disney world. You can't beat Southern California weather.</p>
  6. <p> Why? Because when I insert an archival negative into an archival sleeve,I feel as if I've captured those images for posterity and that they'll survive long after my death. BUT when I burn a digital file to CD or DVD,I feel as if sometime within the next few decades they'll either be corrupted,damaged or unreadable. The bottom line is: I still don't trust digital.</p>

     

  7. <p>"We developed the world's first consumer digital camera and Kodak could have launched it in 1992. "We could not get approval to launch or sell it because of fear of the cannibalisation of film," he told BBC News."

    <br>

    Now that's funny.Kodak was so dedicated to film they refused to release the world's first digital camera.Yet,when they finally did decide to embrace digital they made it so very plain to their long time,loyal (film based) customers that they had NO dedication to film whatsoever (ie couldn't give a damn about us) that when we went digital ourselves we avoided Kodak products like the plague! What comes around,goes around I guess.</p>

  8. <p> It started like this.1st camera I ever used was a 126 Kodak borrowed from my sister for a school field trip to the LA zoo. Then I caught the bug. I begged for a camera of my own. I got for my birthday a Sears (actually Ricoh) 126 with focusing lens,one shutter speed & auto exposure. That served until I was a teenager & knew I wanted a professional camera (which at that time meant a 35mm SLR..at least to me). Instead I got a Minolta Hi-matic AF. It took good pictures but I wanted to understand photography & was expecting something like a Pentax K1000. Anyway a few years later,as a young adult,with my own money I bought a K1000 & cherished it. <br>

    As the years went by,I discovered that wasn't good enough & I needed a 'Real' professional' camera & at the time that meant medium format.Not having a lot of money the progression went like this:1. Lubitel (bought from an advert in the back of a photo magazine),2.Yashica TLR...both being TLR's & real professionals using SLR's (which I couldn't afford) I needed better or so I thought. 3.Kiev 88 (back of the magazine advert again $499.00 a huge expense at the time) broke on the 3rd roll of film through it. Returned it. Upon advice of a friend I decided lens interchangibility/quality was more important than viewing system and so ended up with..#4.Mamiya C33 later upgraded to C330 (still have,very happy with) . However still I longed for a medium format SLR. First one (excluding the kiev) came from a camera show (Bronica Ec-tl) loved it. Then hard times hit and I sold it. Then I did without a medium format SLR for years (still had & used the Mamiya TLR but somehow felt slighted cos it wasn't an SLR). Then I found a really great deal I couldn't pass up on a medium format SLR. A used Kiev 60 upgraded by Kiev USA with documentation. In spite of my earlier bad experience with the kiev 88,I bought it & still own it & have had no trouble with it. However,I also treat it very gently & don't trust it...I've probably put 100 rolls through it. Then finally I found a good deal on a 'real' medium format SLR..a Bronica SQ. Someday I'll own a Hasselblad (I can afford one now,but why?with Bronica,Mamiya,Kiev & Yashica (I've got a Holga too but didn't count that).</p>

  9. <p>You'll have no trouble finding the ingredients for Caffenol inexpensive & available at every Supermarket & convenience store in town provided you don't waste your time running round trying to find Arm & Hammer washing Soda (look for PH plus [100% sodium carbonate] pool/spa chemical or convert baking soda by baking it spread thin on a cookie sheet @425F for 45 minutes). I use Fomapan 100 & the original (no Vitamin C) Digital Truth recipe and it works just fine with slightly reduced contrast that can easily be adjusted for both scanned & in the wet darkroom (Kodak polycontrast 3.5 grade filter) with a condenser enlarger.I'm happy with it.</p>
  10. <p>And this is Fomapan 100 (AKA..Arista EDU Ultra..Freestyle) in '99 Cent Store' Developer (instant coffee & baking soda [converted to Sodium Carbonate by baking @ 425 F for 1/2 hour..no vitamin C]) As you can see,you can make due with lots of different developers. Tmax is just fine for a start.</p>
  11. <p> When you process yourself in Israel using the 'same' Kodak chemicals as you use in America,are those chemicals purchased in Israel? What differences are there between Kodak chemicals sold in America & those sold in Israel? Are the ones in America fresher? How long is such a low turn over item as darkroom chemicals typically stored in Israel? Israel can be a very hot place much of it bring below sea level,what are the storage conditions like? That is beyond your control. You're going to have to experiment and come up with a new time/temperature combination that will produce negatives that scan well when developed with Kodak chemicals available in Israel. I think you'll have to do it yourself. Forgot the Israeli lab.</p>
  12. <p>You inspired me. I'm on my 4th roll of film developed in Caffenol (original..no Vitamin C). So far,I'm impressed using Fomapan 100 in 35mm. I couldn't find Washing Soda at several local supermarkets so ended using PH plus for swimming pools which the local supermarket does carry (also cooked regular baking soda in the oven @ 425*F for an hour & used with same results). The negatives scanned well (haven't printed yet in actual darkroom) I suspect they'll print well. Who would have thought you could do this with stuff just lying around the house?<br>

    However,I have to make one observation. People complain Caffenol smells,it doesn't.You mix it,no bad smell.You use it & pour it out,no bad smell. You 'stop' it (using water as a stop),no bad smell. Pour in the fixer.....and OH,My God! The stink! I don't know what the bad smell is,but it doesn't begin UNTIL you introduce fixer.</p>

  13. <p> How many model designations of Canon EOS cameras were affected by the well known,decaying shutter bumper/sticky goo on the shutter blades problem? I have both a an EOS Elan (Eos 100? original one) and a Canon rebel X s (film) that have this problem. Good cameras otherwise. Is there a home fix? 0r are they junk? I tryed lighter fluid & a Q tip to remove it from the blades but it came right back. any suggestions? They're not wroth a professional fix based on the other cameras I have. What do I do? Junk 'em & throw 'em in the trash? Put them Ebay & play dumb (dishonest & wont do for principal) or?....is there an or?</p>
  14. <p> Do you know how much money closing all these parks will save? A mere 25 million dollars! Sacramento spends more than that on toilet paper every year ! This is political posturing to get people to vote for increased taxes in the up coming special election. In fact,I'll be sure NOT to vote for those taxes because they tried this dirty trick/threat.</p>
  15. <p> Actually,I think you way over paid simply for the Nikon name. Just as a matter of strict fact you could have gotten a 35 mm SLR with pretty much the capabilities with a lens for half what you paid on Ebay. For example the Ricoh SLR's (AKA sears),or the early all metal Vivitar's (220),or even GAF (chinon).</p>
  16. <p>Wow,excellent pictures. I thought everyone hated us. Glad to know that isn't true. Does this mean our nuclear powered ships are welcome in ports now?<br>

    Ps....In many ways you are more 'American' than British. My God,man,you're you're 'colonists',British colonists in a 'newly discovered' land thousand of miles from mother England,what could be more 'American' than that? Now chuck the Crown & we'll talk.</p>

  17. <p>Wo,wo,wo..what do you mean by manual camera? Manual focus or manual exposure? Because you're going to have to know the F stop & shutter speed for this work. Second,we need to know more about the flash. Is it's output adjustable (perhaps color coded?) if not you may be at the mercy of distance. You say,"the camera sets itself up for ambient exposure" so I assume you mean manual focus when you refer to a 'manual' camera. At it's most simple,if you're going to use a manual focus camera in it's 'auto' mode with a simple electronic flash (non adjustable output) you're going to need to know the F stop & shutter speed the camera has chosen to make sure that:1.The Shutter speed is at or below the flash sync speed & 2. the F stop chosen by the camera is about 1 stop above (higher number) than F stop listed on the flash at a given distance. Tell us more about your particular equipment foe a better answer.</p>
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