michelle_peterson

I vote for the 28-135 IS. I love this lens. I have the 24-70L but it's so much heavier. I thought that when I bought the 24-70 I wouldn't use the 28-135, but that hasn't been the case.

Bob, Get a 10D. You won't regret it. I debated for months.

I had the same problem when I first got my 10D. Just lower the brightness of the LCD.

I've owned the Tamron 90mm for 3 years. It was my favorite lens until I got the 10D. It front focuses with the 10D. I didn't know what to do so I've just stopped using it.

Hi, Always check your histogram for exposure. It gets to be second nature after awhile. The LCD in the 10D is quite bright so I lowered the brightness on mine. I shoot in SRGB and have my monitor set to that also.

Hi Jim, How are you? I know nothing about these gadgets. Can I use my flash in manual with the Ikelite?

I have a 10D and 28-135IS. I would recommend the combo. It's a great all purpose lens.

I would recommend you buy your 10D from a local retailer that has a good reputation, that way if you have any problems you can go to them. My camera store exchanged mine when I had a focus issue. For a hundred bucks or so it's worth the piece of mind.

Hi, I was just using my 540ez today with my 10D. I use the off-shoe cord and I attach the flash to a light stand. This gets me about two feet away and above my camera. It's far enough away to not get the on-camera flash look and if you use a pocket bounce (I use the 80/20 with the silver insert) you get a really nice light. I have a 420ex and I would not trade the 540 for a 420. You don't have any manual controls with the 420. It's totally ettl. Use the 540 for now and save up for the 550ex.

Michael, I select sRBG as my color space because that is what my lab uses. So I have my camera, monitor and printer all sRGB. I'm no expert and when I was using differnt profiles I got some wierd stuff. This has simplified things for me. What I see on my monitor is what I get.

Shawn, I'd go with the A2. It has all of the features mentioned in the above posts, plus you can get a used one for a great price. I got mine off of ebay last year. I got the camera, verticle grip, 540ez flash and remote shutter release. I can't remembered what I paid but it wasn't much. I also have a Elan ll, but the A2 has more professional features.

It seems like the only thing you can do at this point is insist on a new camera. Did you buy it mail order or locally?

Berg, I thought that maybe the slow shutter speed could have been the problem, even thought I shoot portraits at speeds as slow as 1/15 on a tripod, so for the next shoot I kept the shutter speeds from 1/60-1/25, camera on tripod. I was really careful about where I placed my focus box. Same problem. Sandy, I can except that the 10D images are slightly soft, but not that I have a area in focus that was not the intended area.

On the Bob Atkins test with the 90mm lens. The focus is on the 2cm mark when I had the focus selection on the center line. I tried the 28-135 at 5.6 and it's hard to tell at 5.6. I have done 2 jobs with the camera and have gotten beautiful images but I have to soften them in Photoshop and then bring the eyes back. I don't want to have to do this all the time. I'd say 80% have soft eyes and faces even though I have set focus point over them. The bustline is in sharp focus. I don't know what to do. Can this be fixed?

Hello, I have read all the posts on the 10D focus issues and stayed

up into the wee hours searching other sites. With my lenses the 10D

front foucuses.This is my second 10D. The first one did the same

thing. My lenses are 28-135IS and Tamron 90mm 2.8. I have been

using Canon for about 6 years and have a A2 and Elanll so I'm

familiar with Canon cameras. I have no other problems with my other

cameras and these lenses. I have tried all kinds of tests; Bob Atkins

test. I've lined up bottles etc. The Tamron is terrible. I check

in file viewer and my focus point is exactly what I selected. If I

put he focus point over the eye, that's what should be in focus, but

it's not. The 28-135IS is better than the Tamron but it's not good

at 28mm. At f8 I'm OK but I don't want to shoot at F8 all the time.

I've tried all different parameters and nothing matters. I read some

postsabout the camera having problems focusing low contrast

subjects. I shoot portraits and I shoot natural light in the shade.

If a face isconsidered low contrast than I'm in trouble. I don't know

what else to do. I can't afford to buy L lenses right now. I know

the 28-135 is not considered the best lens, but I still should be

able to have the focus on the point I selected. I have camera in M,

one shot and on a tripod. I have soft eyes on almost all my shots

unless the subject is sitting straight up,if they are sitting in a

chair and leaning back the focus will be on their clothing even

though I focused on the face.<div></div>

Bjorn, I have been taking photography courses at at local community college for the past 3 years. It's two nights a week. The hands on experience is wonderful, plus they have all the equipment you need; darkroom, fully equipped studio, large-format& medium format cameras to use. You can sign for them and take them home when you want to do location shooting. You can't get that through mail order. I work and have children so it's tough at times, and there are times I don't feel like going, (especially in winter),but I love it. The instructors know that we all have busy lives. The best photographers there are the adults in the night classes.(as opposed to the full-time college students) We are doing it because we want to. I would recommend the local school if you can swing it.

I called Millers today and they told me they are using the same paper to print all their C41 b&w. It is a matte "D" surface paper. So Scott, if I'm understanding your correctly, the reason I like the look of the color neg print is because a color neg has more contrast than the TCN?

I recieved a order from my lab today and they mistakenly sent me

black and white prints from my color negative. I have never ordered a

b&w print from a color neg before. They actually look really good,

better than the dull TCN(with dark skintones)I've been getting from

them. I love TCN when I can print it myself. So now I'm wondering if

I should just shoot color for situations such as weddings. I'd like

to hear from anyone who has been doing this and if they're happy with

the results.