eye-of-searle

About dust cleaning sensors. I have the D80 so it's not an issue with me but..... where does all that dust being vibrated or shaken off go to? Won't it just end up the the camera body ready to be shaken back on the sensor when the camera is turned, bumped, rotated, etc? Is these something it clings to after being removed? I would just assume clean it myself and remove the dust from the camera completely.

 

Again, not really sure how these systems work. Just curious.

 

Jim

I know you have probably tried this in terms of the focus brackets being stuck but..... are you sure the 4-way toggle pad is not locked?

Coolscan V.

 

I am not sure of the exacts specs but my scanned images from my Coolscan V yield 135mb files. Fuji scans are about 2mb at most. Fuji scans are OK for prints up to 5x7, but that's about it. You really start to notice the lack of detail larger than 5x7. In contrast, my Coolscan prints have been printed up to 12x18 so far and they look great.

I have the HP7960. It does a great job with B&W and as you have read, it does so right out of the box. If you can find one, you should be very happy with it.

 

One thing! I am starting to have a harder and harder time finding the #59 grey ink cartridge which is needed for B&W printing. Most major stores still carry the color and black ink ink units but not the #59. The last time I bought the #59, I actually ordered it direct from HP. Not a big deal but I am beggining to wonder how long I will be able to find the #59. HP told me they still make it but would not say for how long.

 

I have read to newer 8250 gives equal results compared to the 7960 and I THINK it takes different cartridge models. That might be a better option. If memory serves, the 8250 was the replacement for the 7960.

On a recent trip, I took my Nikon D80 10MP camera with two 2GB cards. Each night, I tranferred the photos I took to my iPod. I had zero problems with the transfer but it did take a long time. I was usually transferring anywhere from 50 to 150 RAW files each time and transfer times took between 15 to 45 or so minutes. So, if time is not a concern, it works great. One very important thing to remember is to have a full charge on your iPod when you tranfer. The process drains the battery very quickly. I'm guessing a full battery could go a bit over an hour or so before being dead.

 

I also transferred jpegs from my wife's Panasonic FX-01 6Mp camera. jpegs transfer much faster.

 

I agree that memory is really cheap now but knowing I had my files backed up on mu iPod was nice. I also backup the iPod onto my laptop as well. Just to be safe.

I'll 3rd, 4th whatever the 18-70. It's just a better lens than the 18-135. I compared the two before buying and found the 18-70mm to have a much smoother feel when zooming and seemed to lock focus much quicker in low lighting. The 18-135 seems to hunt more. And, the 18-135 also has a plastic mount ring compared to the metal mount on the 18-70. I did not personally compare the image quality but every review and opnion I have read states that 18-70 produces a better image. I have been very happy with my 18-70.

I recently had this ame question.

 

http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=00J5am

 

In short, set camera to "A" mode and flash to "A". You have to set the zoom range on the flash as well as the aperture. Worked fine, just no TTL.

The 18-70mm is probably the best of the "kit" lenses and is actually quite good. I have been using one for a couple of months now and have been very impressed. The 18-200mm is a great lens but in short supply and expensive. From what I have read, the 18-70mm is just as good or better optically. The 18-70 lacks some features like the longer range to 200mm and Vibration Reduction but it's also a lot cheaper.

Ezra,

 

I just did a quick view and will go back later but.... You captured some amazing images. This is work anyone would be proud of. I especially like the Vietnam series. The potraits are truly wonderful.

 

Looks like you had one heck of a trip.

You will be on the westside/southwest of town a bit farther out than HCE but it's maybe a 10-15 minute drive. In Houston terms? Your close!

 

Warning! It's a great store full of all sorts of inventory so try to get in and out quick or you will end up broke. :)

Get the F100 if money permits. A truly great camera and a steal right now at $300 to $400 mint. It's simply a more advance and a better camera than the N90(s). The N90 series is a great camera as well but it's not a F100.

I like Phil's statement here,

 

" According to the magazines and Web sites that exhaust themselves taking pictures of test targets, the Canon Digital Rebel XTi produces image quality that is superior to that produced by its 10-megapixel competitors."

 

Really? That's not what I have been reading. Most reviews/comparisons I have read give the image quality edge to the Nikon D200/D80.

 

Phil needs to take off his "Canon Tinted" glasses.

 

IMO, Phil has ZERO credibility as a reviewer of camera equipment and should be the last resource for someone trying to learn. What a shame.

B&H is the best online dealer and will be considerably cheaper than local stores here in Houston. I order all my stuff from B&H and have zero complaints.

 

But, if you do choose to buy in Houston, the two best stores are Houston Camera Exchange and Camera CO/OP. I like CO/OP for their friendly and helpful staff but they are smaller than HCE so check to make sure they have the lens first. HCE is larger and usually has most items but still check ahead of time.

 

I compared the local prices to B&H recently and B&H is clearly cheaper. 10 to 30% cheaper is most cases. Plus, you save tax with B&H and shipping rates are really cheap for normal UPS (3-5 day).

In addition to the ideas mentioned above, you might consider the battery grip. It really helps balance larger lenses like the 70-200 2.8 and gives you the verticle command dials and shutter release. I find the small size of the D80 without the grip does not give a lot of support leverage to my 80-200mm 2.8. The grips really gives your hand more leverage.

I have travelled several times over the last year with a tripod wrapped in clothing in my suitcase and also as a carry on. No problems at all so far.

These two lenes would cover just about everything and are both some of Nikons best zooms. Not cheap, but you did not mention a budget.

 

28-70/2.8 AFS

 

70-200/2.8 AFS VR

Another vote for the Nikon 28-105mm 3.5-4.5 AFD. It's a great lens and also has a "macro'ish" macro feature that comes in handy for close ups. Great "bang for the buck" lens. I have used one for a few years now with great results. I only recently started using the 18-70mm more with my new D80 since 28mm is not wide enough on a DSLR. I still carry with me quite often for it's macro ability and zoom range.

 

Jim

You might consider the Nikon 18-70mm 3.5-4.5 AFS. Not the fastest lens around but a great performer. Much better than the 18-135mm. You could get it and a 50mm 1.8 for for under $400. Something to think about.

 

80-200mm vs. 18-200? For your intended purpose, clearly the 80-200mm 2.8 AFD ED. It's an awesome lens. The 18-200mm is way to slow for what you need. Just make sure you get the 80-200mm model with the tripod ring. There was a previous version without a tripod ring that you want to stay away from. Same great optics but the tripod ring really helps ALOT on this lens. I consider it a must.

Hands down the D80 IMHO. Just because of the D40's inability to use non AF-S lenses. There are so many amazing non AF-S Nikon lenses out there. Are there any AF-S primes yet? I mean other than the big telephotos.

This is normal.

Why not put it on Ebay with a reserve and see if it sells? D80's are probably getting harder and harder to find with high demand so close to Christmas. I bet you could get close to $900 for it. People tend to get caught up in bidding and pay too much.

 

BTW, I paid $909 at B&H about 2 weeks. I saw it cheaper and for more but like the above poster states, "I know B&H" and I trust them. That alone is worth a bit more IMO.

OK,

 

I just got home and tried some test shots on the Dog. (she's pissed, and now blind) Set to "a" mode on flash and aperture mode on the camera which is what I normally shoot in. Seems to work pretty well.

 

So, no autozoom on the flash and I need to set the aperture and zoom range. No problem. I will probably shoot primes with my 50mm 1.8 and 85mm 1.8 anyway to play it safe and less room for error.

 

One question because my head is fried right now. On my 50mm, would I set the flash zoom to 50mm or the 70mm setting (No 75mm setting on the flash - just 70mm or 85mm). In other words, do I need to compensate for the 1.5x crop factor on the D80? The 50mm is basically now a 75mm so does that need to be carried over to the flash as well?

 

Thanks so far for the great responses. Your help is much appreciated.

 

Jim

Thanks Michael. That helps a lot.

Thanks. Will the zoom on the flash still adjust with the zoom on the lens? If not, no big deal. I can manually adjust or just shoot primes.

Mods, feel free to delete this one. I reposted in Nikon forum.

 

Sorry.