sean_fitzgerald1

Well, if spinning is insufficient for fixer, is it insufficient for developer as well? Should I switch to inversions ?

In my school darkroom, some classmates and I have been getting

discolored streaks down the center of our negatives. It only happens

sometimes though, and to different people every time. It's happened

with Illford and Kodak films alike. We use d76 1:1, "standard kodak

acetic acid stop back" and "standard kodak fixer"... "both mixed

accordingly" according to my teacher. Agitation is done with

spinning rods. I agitate what I consider to be normally: (developer:

5 seconds every 30 seconds, fixer: 10-15 seconds every minute for 10

minutes) The developer is always between 19-21 C and recommended

times are mostly always used for developing. When we take the

negatives after they've been washed and put them back into the fixer

for about 5 minutes, the streaks go away... So I'm guessing that 10

minutes is not enough for the fixer? This is a few minutes more than

the recommended though, so I do not understand. Perhaps it is the

spinning agitation?

 

The tri-x negatives always come out a light transparent blue/gray

color. (this is normal, correct?) The streak going down the middle

is usually a pale yellow color. I made a print from one today before

I fixed it again. I noticed on the print that where the streak was,

there occurred a less amount of contrast and brighter values. I

apologize if this is a repeat, or obvious, but I could not find it

anywhere.

Does anyone know what the capacity of TMAX developer mixed 1:4 would

be if I do not mix a gallon at a time? Or should I toss it every time

I use it? It seems like I should be getting more out of it than I am.

(I've been tossing it everytime I use it)

I shot some of the new Kodak Tmax 400 last night. I had it in the

fridge for about... 4 weeks. I let it warm up for about 10-20

minutes. I shot some photos inside with a tripod, most of the

exposures were around f/8 and f/11 and the shutter was from a half a

second to around 1.5 seconds. I used a 50mm 1.8 EF lens. I took about

21 pictures inside with this. The next day I took two photos of my

dog outside with a different lens. (28-80 EF) I forget the shutter

but it was quite fast and it was at f/8. ANYWAY...

 

I developed the film with d76 1:1. I'm not 100% sure I diluted the

developer correctly... I'm using powder to make 1 gallon. I followed

the directions which said to pour all of the powder into 800ml of hot

water and stir until it is dissolved and then add more water until it

reaches one gallon. Then when I used the developer, I diluted the

stock gallon 1:1 with water. I heated this to 20 C and developed the

tmax 400 in this for 12:30. I agitated for 5 seconds every 30 seconds

the first 5 minutes and after this I agitated for 5 seconds every

minute. Everything else was done normally.

 

The negatives look very low contrast. I had to print most of these on

a grade 4 paper , except for the super high contrast photo of my dog

in the snow which was on a 2.5 paper. They're all very grainy as

well. I don't know what the heck is going wrong. Any ideas??? I was

using a rebel 2k, by the way. I know the meter is correct, I tested

it against all my other meters.<div></div>

Hi, On just about every one of my rolls, there are strange water mark

looking things. Usually they dont show up on my prints, but I've

started to notice them more and more lately. Also, my negatives just

seem dirtier than ever lately, and I don't really know why, but what

is especially puzzeling are these "water marks" ?! If anyone can shed

some light, pleeease! Thanks a bunch.

 

PS: please look at photo for examples.<div></div>

Yeah, I have a manual, it really helps none. It just tells me how the camer should work, and from what is says, the shutter should just click when im in manual. It does not though.

Hello, I have a Canonet ql 17. The problem with it is that it only

works in the A mode. I want to use it in manual, but when I turn the

aperture ring to an f stop, the shutter will not click, it does not

matter what shutter speed is selected either. I can get the shutter

to click in manual mode when I hold down the CHECK button for the

battery and then click it, but that is no good still because it only

goes to one aperture no matter what I have selected, I think it is f

stop 11, but I could be wrong. Anyway, it is annoying to only be able

to use this camera in auto mode, please, and suggestions would be so

greatly appreciated.

A vivitar e36 or 33 with a 50 mm vivitar lens.

http://www.photo.net/photo/823083

 

that is a quick scan of the last couple of frames, they're very spaced apart, i know, i havent figured out yet how to get 12 into the roll, however, when I look closer at the negatives, they dont actually have the hot edges like the prints do, it has to be my enlarger! :(

http://www.photo.net/photo/822912 >> forgot to put it in the first post.

I developed and printed a few pictures from my first roll from my

new rolleicord today. Some of the pictures have VERY hot corners,

while others show still show it, but not as badly. For an example,

look at the attatchment. Odd, huh? Any suggestions?

Hey, Thanks Ed! That was helpful. =)

Hello. I've recently been recommended to try out PMK Pyro developer

for b&w film. I've tried looking on the internet, but... there is

not an entirely large amount of information (that I could find)

about it. Is there anyone who can tell me anything about it? Im

going to be using it to replace d-76. Everything I have read in the

internet about it however, is very positive. So anyone, please, and

thanks! :)

Thanks, and no, they no longer carry 120 film because in my area, they told me, no one really uses 120 film any longer. So buying and stocking it, only to keep it in the fridge was costing them more money than they actually made selling it. Sucks, don't it? :)

Wow, you guys have all been a huge help. You're invaluable. I just loaded a new roll and it seems to work so far, I will shoot it tomorrow and keep you all posted if you dont mind. Thanks alot, again!!

Thanks! But, on page 18 of that PDF, it says to go under the first and over the second, are you sure about going over both? thanks again.

Oh man, you've got to be kidding me? HAHA no way.

OK, here is how it happened.

 

I picked up an old Rolleicord at a camera store a few weeks ago,

brought it home and ordered some 120 roll film from B&H a few days

later. While I waited for the film to arrive, I played around with

the camera in every way I could. I got instructions off of the

internet for it, printed it out and read them a few times. I was

really scared, with good reason, about learning how to load it,

also.

 

My film arrives; 5 rolls of T-Max 400. I attempt to load it. First I

followed the horrible instructions I got in the internet by entering

my first roll into the bottom compartment, under the slot, over the

lens area, through the next slot, and onto the take up spool. Wound

it until I got to the arrows, just like it says, and popped the top

back on. I open the window at the bottom to attempt to see when I

get at the first frame. It never shows up and the tension as I wind

is getting greater as I go so I figure it most only be on certain

films. This is a test roll anyway. I fire off about 4 shots to

finally see the 1 in the bottom window. Darn. No biggie, but now the

film is almost impossible to wind. I continue doing this until I get

to about frame 4 and the film it is no longer possible to wind the

film. I literally have band-aids over my thumb and index fingers

now. No I�m not kidding. J

 

I decide since it�s a test roll, its not that big of a deal, I am

however a little upset at this point because I thought it might

actually work out. I open the back completely to see what the heck

is going on. It looks all right. I didn�t care that I had exposed

the film, I wanted to learn how to finally get this film into the

blasted camera. I end up tearing the film out because I could no

longer wind it.

 

I try a new roll this time optimistic. I get it to frame 7 this

time! My blisters got worse but now at frame 7 it�s impossible to

wind the film any longer. I decide to take it all out and develop it

to see if anything even worked. Stupid me, I took out the spool in a

very dim room, but its obvious in the negatives that a lot of light

leaked anyway. It is only on the sides though, so I know its from my

poor handling, not the camera.

 

Anyway, the negatives look good except for the horrible light

leakage on the sides. But, what the heck am I doing wrong here? I

wish I had not gotten off on a bad foot with medium format, it looks

like a fun thing to experiment with. Hopefully I will figure this

out soon! Thanks!!