esben_jensen

use a coin to twist it ca. 360 degrees. this will cock the shutter in the lens. camera and lens should both always be cocked before attaching or removing the lens or you'll end up with the infamous hasselblad jam.

I've had trouble with my dark slide slots but the streaks were only within the pictures and never between frames and they looked more straight and radiationlike.<br>

Still if you wish to change the light seals you can get parts and instructions for 13$ <a href=http://home.earthlink.net/~blackbird711/HasselbladTrapSealSets.htm>here</a>.

<br><br>

By the way I live in denmark and the seals arrived with regular airmail (they're really small) 4 or 5 days after I placed my order.

http://medfmt.8k.com/mf/ghassy.html and http://medfmt.8k.com/mf/hassylens.html

Too little developer?

you might want to look at this:

 

http://medfmt.8k.com/mf/hassylens.html

If it's anything like 35mm cinemafilm just cut away the uneven edges and tape it back together. Make sure you remove an integral number of frames so your movie doesn't skip (on 35mm it's four sprocket holes per frame).

I'd get a cheap small flash with fast recycling times and tape unexposed developed slide film over the reflector. The slide film works like an IR-filter.

The following quote is from page 92 in the book "Silver Gelatin" by Martin Reed and Sarah Jones:

 

"Emulsions will wash considerably better in alkaline hard water, which in essence is acting as a mild hypo-clearing agent. [...] the emulsion swells in more in an alkaline environment, allowing water to penetrate more easily and chemicals to diffuse out more efficiently."

 

I wouldn't worry to much about the concentrations of the different salts in your water. The concentrations of the components of the developer will most likely outweigh these by factors of several thousands.

there are a LOT of different developers most are relying on a mix of metol and hydroquinone, but the web should have the answers...

 

for stop bath you don't have to use acetic acid - citric acid can be used as an odourless stop. you can even do with a simple water bath, but make sure to change the water often.

 

I think you're right about the cost of ready-made fixers vs. home made, but there are times when a fixer without hardener is required and a 10% sodium thiosulfate solution will do the trick.

I usually use a cable release, but the self timer won't let the shutter work at all so what I've got is essentially a beautiful and expensive paperweight :-(

 

I've been shaking the lens and excersizing the self timer all night with no results so I hope a hasselblad can fix things for me ...maybe they could fix the light leak in the magazine and align my selfinstalled acute-matte focusing screen too.

 

as you can hear it's definately time for a CLA.

thanks for the advice

 

-esben

I bought a hasselblad 500c with a 80mm planar two months ago. The

camera worked well but today the shutter got stuck after use with the

self timer.

 

When triggering the camera, everything does what it's supposed to do:

the mirror slaps up, the shutter closes, the rear shutter opens and

the aperture sets but the shutter does not open again for the

exposure. The pattern is the same for all time settings including B.

 

Is my Planar dead?

I've done a little experimentation with the vanadium toner listed at

www.jackspcs.com. However I can't seem to hit the green I want. My

most successful print with the toner is here:

 

http://www.photo.net/photo/2370472<div></div>

This place http://www.jackspcs.com/chemdesc.htm lists the solubility of ammonium thiosulfate to 173g per 100mL water.

Sorry, I was a bit too fast on the trigger. You should be able to produce pyrogallol by heating gallic acid, but I still don't think it's a good idea to make your own chemicals.

I'm afraid it's not that simple. Even though the names indicate a close relationship between the chemicals, gallic acid contains an extra functional group (a carboxy-group) and I think it requires a pretty complex procedure to remove it.

 

Even if you should stumble across a procedure that seems fairly simple, I will advice you not to try for two reasons.

 

1. You will most likely not be able to excercise the right precautionary actions, as these chemicals are highly toxic. The chemicals needed in the procedure may be even more toxic.

 

2. Even if you could produce pyrogallol in a safe manner, you are likely to end up with a mixture of products that may not be suitable for developing negatives.

The crushed-ice-with-water method is independent of other thermometers, since 0 degrees celsius is defined as this. I can't imagine you'll see any difference in your prints, if the scale on the thermometer isn't calibrated EXACTLY at 20 degrees.

Dissolving NaOH in water produces large amounts of heat. You should therefore slowly add the NaOH to the water. The water will be able to absorb the heat better if the water/NaOH ratio is great and you'll avoid accidents.

 

Same thing with concentrated acids. NEVER add water to acid.

By the way, I never had any problems with rodinal getting too old and

I always go for the biggest volume sold.

I think your development time is too long. When shooting fp4+ I

usually develop for 6 minutes in 1:25 at 20Celsius/68Fahrenheit. The

instructions with my rodinal says that for 1:50 at 20degrees the

development time is 8 minutes. At the moment I use Rodinal at 1:50 +

4g/L Sodium Ascorbate 20degrees and times for 1:25 dilution. This

gives smaller grain. With fp4+ the difference is small, but it's very

noticeable with hp5+.