joachim_hildebrand

I use the HASSELBLAD QR Sytem (Type "S") not only with my MT and I am very happy with it. The plates are very thin and don´t have razor-sharpe edges like the linhof which might be better for really heavy stuff.

Recently I bought a Mamiya 6 Outfit in really good shape. Everything

works fine but I am wondering whether the sounds after pressing the

shutter relase are normal: When pushing the button I can hear the

leaf shutter and maybe 3/10 of a second later a second click which

seems to come from the camera and not from the lens. When I push the

button a second or third time afterwards the delay of the second

click becomes shorter. Is there somthing wrong?

It was an truely expensive jam: Leica will charge over 600 Euro for the repair and a general CLA, ooooh, but they will give a full guarantee for 1 year (could be 2 years, I have to check that again). The honorable dealer I bought the camera from offered to take the camera back with full refund of payment or to pay 50 % of thew repair costs. I think I will decide for his second offer ...

 

Thanks for Your help!

To all owners of an early M7:

 

You should be glad that You have a RARE collectors item!!

 

To the rest:

 

Buy an early M7, don´t touch it but sell it to a collector in 20 years and make lots of $$$$!!

 

 

PS: On my early M7 (I got a discount of 500 Euro) the flare problem seems to be bigger than with my M6 classic 0,85 or my M6 ELW.

 

Cheers

Hi,

 

recently I bought an Polaroid 8x10 processor Model 81-02 with two

film cassettes Model 81-05 but without an separate Loading Tray.

Polaroid is not able to send me manuals for this specific

equipment!!! I tried it twice. Do I need the Loadimg tray? Can anyone

email me scans of the manuals?

 

Many thanks for Your help!

 

Joachim

Thanks to You all,

 

Jay,

it is an M2 and this never happend to one of my M6´s!

 

Charles,

I tried the cable release and the self-timer, moves rewind lever back and forth, did not help. It is not a black model, I wish I had one. I am quite sure that nobody else touched my M2: The closet is actually a safe.

 

Steve,

good idea but because the camera worked so smooth before jamming, I think it is no lubrication problem.

 

Kevin,

even wiggling did not help.

 

After all (I am not a great mechanic) I will send the camera off for a service.

 

I will let You know how it worked out finally.

Al,

 

Thank You very much. I just tried the "finger thing" very gently. It did not work. Maybe I was too gentle but a broken shutter curtain is not what I am looking for and if at any rate the camera should be looked at by a repair person I leave it to him/her.

I don´t know. How can You tell?

That was really qick!!!

 

No film inside the camera but I used the rewind pin and "rewound" the "film" which didn´t help. Maybe I should add that I used my M2 with TA-Rapidwinder. Again, everything worked fine when I stored the camera!

My M2 worked like a charm when I put it in my closet. Two weeks

later: No shutter release and no film wind possible. Any help?

 

Thanks in advance

Todd,

 

theoretically You are right. Practically it is quite possible that the 35mm gives another reading and the film inside the SLR will actually need more light. This is for example the case if a zoom lens is used for the metering. Zoom lenses have much more elements (i.e. glass) than a LF lenses and will therefore transmit less light. Off course You can adjust that difference (up to 2/3 stop) with the ISO rating on Your 35 mm SLR (for example: ISO 64 instead of ISO 100) and You are fine. But don´t forget to readjust ISO when shooting with the SLR !!!

The Darmstadt camera show is really big. Ppeople from all over Germany go there but Leica is not the main issue - under 10 %.

 

Darmstadt is a 20-25 minute drive from Frankfurt Airport, so why not go to both shows?

 

(By the way: I want to sell my mint in box M 2,8/28 E46, I could bring it if anyone is interested)

Hi Feli,

 

if You look for Leica stuff (new or used) don´t miss Foto-Wolf in Münchener Straße 32 which is very close to Hauptbahnhof (Main Railway Station). Opening hours are a bit strange: Mo-Th: 9.30-15.30, 16.30-18.00, Fr 9.30-13.00, Sat closed, Call in advance to be sure: 069-235337.

 

Have a nice trip

 

Joachim

Roberto,

 

it took a little bit longer but maybe You are still interested in this matter.

 

I did no real test but made a few shots with this combo on Kodak Tmax 400 CN only opened up. The results looked OK, maybe a bit on the soft side with nearer objects (Portraits).

 

Because Kodak TCN is no ideal material for testing I will do some more shots on slide film and will tell You about the results.

 

Best regards

Roberto,

 

I just mounted this combo (80 + 2xApo). Metering seemed to be correct and the results looked good in the finder (even in the corners). So I will do some testshots.

Travis,

 

if You go for a Hasselblad, don´t take a CM, take a 2000 FCW or 2003 FCW. They have a bigger mirror than the CM so You can see the whole frrame when working with longer lenses than 120mm which is IMO very important. In addition with these bodies You can use ALL Hasselblad lenses and You have the chice of shutter; the focal plane shutter with F, FE, C, CFi and CFE lenses and the prontor shutter of the C, CF, CFi and CFE lenses. Both cameras offer battery free operation when using the shutter in C, CF, CFi and CFE lenses and they accept an add-on motor. But it still they (undeservedly) carry the stigma attached to the early 2000 FCs, so they are relatively cheap to buy used.

 

If You want to photograph "Leica-Style" in 6x7 look for a PLAUBEL Makina 67 or 670 rangefinder camera which has an excellent 2,8/80 Nikkor lens and is very compact due to the foldable bellows. I just bought one for 1000 Euro which is about 1000 $

 

Cheers

Laurie,

 

<p>

 

there is an shift-finder with movable finder-masks made by the

italian manufacturer Silvestri for their MF-shift-camaras. You could

attach this finder on Your Leica and use it together with M-adapted

Nikon or Leica PC-lenses (for a 28mm lens You need the 58mm/6x9

finder-mask). The Silvestri finder (I have one for my Silvestri SLV)

works fine but costs at least $ 550 and is therefore kind of overkill

for 35mm format. So You better/cheaper use an additional SLR with PC-

lenses or buy the real thing (Silvestri/Horseman Shift-Cameras or

large format like Linhof Technikardan.

Martin,

 

<p>

 

in method 2 is possibly an mistake. I think You wanted to say:

 

<p>

 

· If D= 1 Meter, align 1 M on focus scale with F4 on DOF scale

· If D= 1.4 Meter, align 1.4 M on focus scale with F 2.8 on DOF scale

· If D= 2 Meter, align 2 M on focus scale with F2 on DOF scale

· If D= 4 Meter, align 4 M on focus scale with F1 on DOF scale

 

<p>

 

I assume that this revised rule is for half frame recomposing. Am I

correct that for quarter frame recomposing the rule is as follows:

 

<p>

 

· If D= 1 Meter, align 1 M on focus scale with F2 on DOF scale

· If D= 1.4 Meter, align 1.4 M on focus scale with F 1.4 on DOF scale

· If D= 2 Meter, align 2 M on focus scale with F1 on DOF scale

 

<p>

 

 

I tried to check Your revised rule with a SLR (R6.2 with 2/50). It

seemed to me when looking at the focusing screen that Your old rule

(5.2/5.6) was more precise. I needed even more realignment than 5.6

at 1M. Is it because of curved field at short distances?

I like to use the R8 with primes. With Zooms (4/35-70 and 4/80-200) the screen gets very dark in low light. I have an Intenscreen for my F3 which I like, but only with non-wideangeles (wideangles do vignette). Are there any alternatives for R8 which You can use with all focal length?

 

<p>

 

Thank You

Martin,

 

<p>

 

This was really quick!

 

<p>

 

When I understand You correctly You are saying the rule of thumb for

1/4 frame recomposing is: "F1 @ 2,6 m" and not "F1 @ 1,3 m"

 

<p>

 

Did I misunderstand Your original posts?

 

<p>

 

You wrote back then:

 

<p>

 

(May 24, 2001)

"How to get EXACT focus in Off Center Focusing

The rule of thumb I provided is a simple method of handling off

center focusing. However, the subject will not be exactly in focus,

only within the limit of depth of field.

However, if you want exact focus, you need to do one more very simple

step: That is look at the DOF marks on your lens, and rotate the lens

slightly to the left for a amount equals to the depth of field mark

on the lens

 

<p>

 

For example, 50mm/1.4 Summilux, at about 1 meter,

 

<p>

 

1) Focus

 

<p>

 

2) Shift lens to left or right, by 1/4 of a screen, such that the

object is now half way between one edge and the center At this point

you may press the shutter

 

<p>

 

Do the following to get exact focus

 

<p>

 

3) Shift the Summilux to the right such that 1 meter aligns with the

left DOF scale at F1.4

 

<p>

 

 

Focus

1m

_________________| ^ |________________

 

<p>

 

 

 

 

<p>

 

1m

_________________| ^ |________________

1.4 1.4

 

<p>

 

Turn the Summilux barrel TO THE RIGHT to align 1m with the

right side mark

now the lens is focus at less then 1 m ( 1 m minus dof ) and put

the subject back on EXACT FOCUS"

 

<p>

 

AND:

 

<p>

 

"At this stage, the Rule of Thumb for Off Center Focusing becomes:

 

<p>

 

"f1 and 5.2 meter "

From here, proportionality comes in:

 

<p>

 

Stop down from f1 to f2, divide 5.2 in half = 2.6 m

Stop down from f1 to f4, divide 5.2 by 4 to get 1.3m

With this " F1 @ 5.2m " rule of thumb for move-object-from-center- to-

edge, you can handle cases where you need only quarter frame move

 

<p>

 

Rotate camera by half as much (1/4 frame vs 1/2 frame ), you can

either use 4 times bigger aperture, or move in 4 times as close at

same aperture.

 

<p>

 

You can recite:

 

<p>

 

F1 @ 5.2 m half frame And do the following mental calculation:

 

<p>

 

So, F2 @ 2.6m half frame

 

<p>

 

Now I want only quarter frame move, <========

 

<p>

 

So, F1 @ 1.3m <========

 

<p>

 

and F2 @ 0.65m

 

<p>

 

......

 

<p>

 

There is only one line to remember

 

<p>

 

 

F1 @ 5.2m half a frame "

 

<p>

 

 

Did I misunderstand You or is/was something wrong (today or back

then)?

Martin,

 

<p>

 

Your example is based on Your great rule of thumb "f1 @ 5,2m" which

is meant for 1/2 frame recomposing (object at the very edge of

frame). I like Your idea of using the DOF scale as a compensation

dial, which is based on this rule, very much.

 

<p>

 

Am I correct that for 1/4 frame recomposing (object in the middle

between edge and center of frame) the modified rule is "F1 @ 1,3m"?

 

<p>

 

For example: Measured distance (at center of frame) to object is 1

meter, recompose (object at 1/4 frame) and turn focus ring to the

right until the 1m index on the focus ring is at the right 1,4

(should be exactly 1,3) engraving of the DOF scale.

 

<p>

 

If so the use of the "dial" at distances over 1,3 m is not easy

because there are no engravings of f-stops bigger than 1 (Noctilux)

or 1,4 (Summilux). The compensation must be somewhere between the

index and the last available f-stop engraving.

 

<p>

 

Probably a compensation is not really necessary in these cases but I

just like to know if there is an (practical or theoretical) solution.

Can You give any hint?

 

<p>

 

Thank You very much!

Nicolai,

 

<p>

 

I have this adapter and use it with my EOS 1N. I see no reason why it

shouldn´t work with a digital EOS in A or M-Mode. It is the same

mount. But maybe it is better to ask NOVOFLEX.

Lance,

 

<p>

 

that´s exactly what I did with my R5 many years ago. It was a common

trick of Leica-users at that time. Make sure to use only sync-speed

or slower! Now I use R7, R8 or EOS 1n (if AF is needed) with flash.

 

<p>

 

Best regards

I use the 72 XL with my Linhof 617SIII with Schneider CF. With slide

film You definitely need the CF. As a lucky guy I found 3 like-new

but very cheap ($ 25 each) Nikon 122mm filters and use them with a

step-up ring in addition to the CF. It works fine. Another possibilty

might be the COKIN X-Pro Filters with the dedicated all purpose

holder.

 

<p>

 

Best regards

Technikarden is the quickest and Kardan GT is, though bigger, very

qick too. If You work with really long lenses (up to 1200 mm) Kardan

GTI (which might not available anymore) is not really quick but

probably quicker than any other.

 

<p>

 

Best regards

 

<p>

 

PS: Yes, I am biased because I own Linhof