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joachim_hildebrand

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Posts posted by joachim_hildebrand

    PC-Nikkor 3,5/28 for OM - Problem with metering

    in Olympus

    Posted

    UPDATE

     

    I inspected the bayonett of other OM lenses. On their outer side they have two "notches". One looks, as it could be turned/removed with a screwdriver. I suspect this one is for stopping the movement when mounting the lens. The other one is barly visible on first sight and rectangular. Both are in the same place on different lenses with different maximum apertures. Otherwise I would think one of these notches tells the camera the widest aperture. Everything on the Nikkor looks the same. But why does it behave different? Maybe one or both notches on the Nikkor are slightly bent or to short. This would mean that even for an only in stop down mode working lens you need a notch. Seems a bit weird as other systems don?t need any notsches for stop down lenses.

     

    The OM shift does not tell the camera the set aperture and only works in stop down mode. The linkage lever which intrudes in the camera and which the other lenses have is missing. The button which quickly opens the aperture is only for framing and focusing an not for metering. The same thing does a ring on the PC-Nikkor (aperture preset).

     

    Now it gets really weird: I mounted the PC-Nikkor on an OM 2 Body and basically the same happend BUT NOW even when the meter shows a shutter peed of a second, after pressing the release button the shutter speed was much shorter maybe 1/60 or 1/125 sec. As I pointed the lens in an darker area of my room, shutter speeds got longer. It seemed that the OM 2 used the correct speed even when showing the wrong one in the finder. I doublechecked this with the OM 4 Ti but the OM 4 used the shown speeds. Now tell me what is happening here.

    PC-Nikkor 3,5/28 for OM - Problem with metering

    in Olympus

    Posted

    I just bought a PC-Nikkor customized for OM and face the following Problem on a

    OM 4Ti: The meter shows way to long times (with no shifting!) which would cause

    overexposing of maybe 6 - 7 EV. There is no Problem with my original OM Shift

    2,8/35. I have an OM to EOS adaptor for my EOS 5D on which metering with both

    lenses works fine. What could be the problem with the 28 PC-Nikkor on the OM 4Ti?

     

    Thanks for Your help, Joachim

    Bay 60/80mm lens shade on 60 Distagon. Will it vignette?

    in Medium Format

    Posted

    Ruben

     

    I had the same idea and checked this the way one does with a large format camera (look throgh the stopped down lens with the shade attached. If You can see the corners of the screen You are fine). The result: This combination will vignette. The best shade for the 60 would be something inbetween of the 38-60 and the 80 shade. When I find a cheap 80 shade I will try to cut it, because the 38-60 is far to short to be ideal. The best solution for studio use is the pro shade, which You can adjust exactly.

    LINHOF KARDAN MASTER TL

    in Large Format

    Posted

    Kevin,

     

    I think the difference between the older TL and the current GTL is that the TL has no base tilts. Both have L-shaped standarts. The GT is the model with U-shaped standarts.

     

    G = Gelenkrasten (base tilts with different fixed degrees)

     

    T = Teleskopgrundrohr (telescopic rail)

     

    L = L-Standarten (L-shaped standarts)

     

    For studio use the TL should be perfect if You don�t need extreme vertical shifts which the GTL provides through indirect movements.

     

    The GTL has variable assymetrical tilts. The TL might have this feature too, but I am not sure about this.

     

    The Kardan Bi is very well built (like all Linhofs) and a perfect allround solution (studio and outdoor) because it is very light (ca. 4 kg) for a studio-monorail and can be "folded" flat after removing bellows for easy transport in the field.

     

    All current accessories for the GT or GTL can be used with the Kardan Bi (bellows, backs, lensboards etc.) except rails or anything which is directly connected to the rail or the rail itself. So make sure that You get extension rails together with the camera if possible. They are difficult to find. I think the Kardan Bi is one of the best and most useful Linhof cameras ever made.

     

    Good luck

    Shutter Problem with F 1N AE

    in Canon FD Mount

    Posted

    Thanks for Your help.

     

    I returned the camera to the shop which repaired it at no cost. They said the problem was stiff lubricants in the mirror mechanism because of the long time of no use. Now everything works flawlessly.

     

    I like this camera very much, found a 1,2/55 ASPHERICAL SSC and an 1,2/85 L and now I look for the 1,4/24 L.

     

    The only thing I don?t like: There is no exposure lock in AE Mode, at least i can?t find one.

    Shutter Problem with F 1N AE

    in Canon FD Mount

    Posted

    I just bought a F 1N in very good cosmetical condition but it does not

    work like should and like it did in the shop. The problem is now:

    Shutter lag seems to be quite long, mirror travel is very slow and the

    mirror often goes down again only when I lift my finger from the

    shutter release button. In complete manual mode without batteries

    there are the same symptoms but not as severe because the mirrors

    returns always but slower then normal. Yes, I tested the battery, the

    needle is quite above the minimum mark at 5,6. Should I bother with

    repairing the camera or just return it to the shop an look for another

    body? Is it a typical problem?

     

    Thanks

    Joachim

    Is Leica in big financial trouble? Is this the end?

    in Leica and Rangefinders

    Posted

    @Peter:

    Deutsche Bank AG is not owned by the goverment and has an Swiss CEO (Mr. Ackermann) who doesn?t care much about Germany and - I am quite sure - even less about old Nazis. A few years ago he wanted to move the DEUTSCHE BANK to London, maybe there are more Nazis to be found overthere? Just kidding! No further comment necessary, because everything else You said is also complete BS. Sorry, but I had to say this.

    In Praise of the 50mm PC

    in Medium Format

    Posted

    Michael,

     

    I use this lens (adapted by Zoerk) with my Hasselblad F-Series cameras and I am very happy with the results. You can use the full shift with 6x6 and will see unly slightly darker corners which usually adds to the composition. In those corners You normally have sky so softness not an issue there. Zeiss lenses or the great 60-120 Zoom are a little bit crisper - but they have no shift! If You want or need shift this is more important than the last little bit of crispness. The Hasselblad solution 1,4x Shift Converter combined with the 40 mm lens is besides cost no alternative if You want to travel with Your kit. The Mamiya 50 is a really tiny lens and can even be used without tripod, as You know.

     

    Mr. Z�rkend�rfer (the owner of Zoerk) is nice to deal with. You can visit him in Munich (Oktoberfest is comming soon ...).

    M5 Finder "upgrade" and framelines for 35 and 28

    in Leica and Rangefinders

    Posted

    Thanks to all of You for the quick answers.

     

    I checked everything. The lower framlines just aren?t there. Now I know that this is not "normal" because Your upgraded M5s have those missing lines. I will contact LEICA in Solms and will let You know what they tell me and what they will do about it. By the way, the cost of the overhaul was 676 Euro and they did not charge for the finder "upgrade".

    M5 Finder "upgrade" and framelines for 35 and 28

    in Leica and Rangefinders

    Posted

    I just got back my M5 from an overhaul at LEICA in Solms. They changed

    the original framelines, which I didn?t want, but maybe the old ones

    were broken or couldn?t be reinstalled. Now I have the standard M6

    framelines (28/90, 50/75, 35/135) and I can live with it but something

    disturbs me: The lower horizontal framelines for 28 and 35 are missing

    and I have to guestimate the lower edge of the frame. Is that

    normal/unavoidable?

    Leica M grip

    in Leica and Rangefinders

    Posted

    I own all the grips: Leica, GMP and TA. The TA gives the firmest grip but is quite big. The Leica grip is a bit small and the GMP is maybe the best compromise but leaves marks on the leatherette. Be wiser than me: Try before You buy. Since I own the Leivavit I use the grips very seldom because the Leicavit (or the TA Rapidwinder which even can be combined with his grip) makes the M Body just the right amount taller (at least for my rather small hands) so that I have a firm and secure feel and can handle the camera very comfortable even with heavy lenses. Additionally You can use the Leicavit to wind film ;-) For carrying the camera the whole day in one hand neither any of the grips nor the Leicavit is ideal but the grips are better for this purpose.

    Linhof/Hasselblad Lens board

    in Large Format

    Posted

    Ramiro,

     

    together with a Technika to Kardan Lensboard adapter You can mount any Hasselblad Body on any Linhof Kardan camera with this lensboard after removing the back of the Kardan camera. Now You have a Tilt and Shift Bellows for Your Hasselblad! Wideangle work would not be possible but longer lenses and macro should work. I own a Canon EOS to Linhof Kardan Adapter which does exactly the same. You cannot use the full coverage of the large format lenses because the film or the digital sensor sits to deep in the camera body and therefore vignetting occurs pretty soon compared to the theoretically (according to the film or sensor format) possible movements.

    Hasselblad 60-120 zoom lens

    in Medium Format

    Posted

    Aric,

     

    I started exactly with this kit and like it very much. Though I have now additionally a full line of primes I can recommend this lens. I think it is optically (sharpness and contrast) better than some primes. It was tested in a German photo magazine as the best zoom lens ever. Yes it is big and not lightweight but this stabilises handheld shots. Weaknesses are as mentioned minimum focussing distance and vignetting at 60mm which is quite visible wide open on slide film. Try it and find out wether You like it or not. Good alternatives are, but only with stop-down metering: 3,5/60 + 3,5/100 + 1,4x converter and later You can get a 4/40 CFE (or SWC) and a 4/180 CFE.

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