john_sarsgard1

<p>Many thanks. I knew it had to be there somewhere. Just wasn't looking for the right words! I think this will be my normal mode of shooting. </p>

<p>Can the LCD monitor screen on the 5d be disabled? Would be handy for street and/or night photography, and in general working inconspicuously. </p>

<p>Set luminance to 90 and calibrate there. I think you'll be happy.</p>

<p>Set luminance to 90 and calibrate there. I think you'll be happy.</p>

<p>A number of folks (including photo.net wizard Ellis Vener) are using old Beseler slide duplicators. Has light source built in, filtration, bellows. You can go up to MF 6x7, or even 4x5 with an attachment. They aren't made any more, but show up from time to time on ebay. I got mine for $50 and it's built just like a Beseler enlarger, and takes Beseler 67 negative carriers. Works great.</p>

<p>Thanks to all. The contacts looked perfectly clean, so I'd assumed it was something else. Nadine, I was aware of the custom function possibility, and had checked that. But....I just went ahead and cleaned the (already clean?) contacts on both flash and camera, and voila, it works! I guess it's just picky about cleanliness. </p>

<p>I'm mostly an available light guy, but do put the 580 EX II on my 5D from time to time, when I have to. It's been two or three months since I used it. All of a sudden, it isn't picking up any info from the 5D. The mode switch will only go from TTL to manual to multi. No ETTL. I'm putting it directly on the hotshoe. Anybody else seen this spook, or have an idea? Thanks!</p>

<p>Is anyone using Photokit sharpener for images destined for Asuka books? If so, what settings do you use, and are you pleased?<br>

Thanks!</p>

<p>Tri-X in XTOL 1:1. 7 minutes at 75 F. Agitate 30 seconds in the first minute, and 10 sec every minute after that. I shoot it at 400 and get good shadow detail, but how you meter affects that along with how you rate it. You can only get XTOL in packages to make 5 liters, so I make a batch and put it up in completely full 250ml glass bottles. I always use it within 6 months and never have a problem. I think you will find the advantages of this combination are full film speed and minimum grain. You might prefer the tonality of an older developer like Rodinal. To emphasize what others have said, you have to pick some combinations and try them. I think it's fine to try a combination used by somebody whose work you love, but you might not get the same results because they may do other things differently. I do urge people to try working at 75 degrees unless they live some place really cool in the summer. It's much easier to warm up developer in a water bath than try to hit 68 degrees in the summer where I live.</p>

<p>Thanks, folks, I understand about printer settings being saved with the image file. What I'm talking about is saving print settings, paper config, color management, etc as a preset in the printer dialog for a specific paper type. That way, if you're printing a number of images on the same paper, you don't have to keep setting things. But PS sometimes "forgets" what a preset means. </p>

<p>I'm sure this has been asked and answered, but I can't find it. So thanks for putting up with this. I use Photoshop CS3 on a Mac and usually print on an Epson 3800. For what seems like a long time, perhaps going back to CS, Photoshop seems to sometimes "forget" print settings, color management, etc. that I have assigned to a preset for a particular paper. Sometimes it remembers, sometimes forgets. Obviously have to check it every time. Useless energy expended. Thanks.</p>

I echo what Bob Atkins said. I have a Metz 54MZ4 that I use with a Canon 5d. I got the Metz because there are adapters for lots of

camera brands, and I wanted to also use it with a Pentax 645. But flashes, particularly with TTL functions, are unbelievably complex. The

savings weren't worth it. The Metz directions make my hair hurt every time I try to read them. It is hard to figure out what's really

happening. And, the English is pretty much a literal translation of German, which doesn't help much either.

I like my 20" Apple Cinema. About $500.

Both books mentioned are good. I find Kelby's a little easier to understand, but wordier to

get through to an answer. In the export dialog, you can specify just where you want LR to

put the files. Pictures is the default. If you read the dialog carefully, it's quite clear. Also be

careful about how you want LR to name the exported files.

I could not make it look natural with either healing brush or clone stamp sampled elsewhere.

Emre's effort looks better. thanks to all.

Sorry....this isn't going to work. It just looks within LR itself. I'm trying to solve this for

myself, and keep thinking I'm done when I'm not. J.

Single click on the red folder (red because LR doesn't know where it is) then go to Library in

the LR menu bar and select Find... and LR will go find the folder. Make sure you are in

Library module. At least it works for me. I find the library pretty confusing. Understanding

what data is where is complicated. Hope this helps.

Here you go. Any suggestions appreciated. Cropped because it's a client image.<div></div>

I'd like to minimize the hair on the young lady's arms. Healing brush and clone stamp don't work well. Is

there a usual way of doing this?

Click on the folders in your library and LR will go find them.

I'm tired of my prints always being darker than the image on my MacBook pro screen, and having to trial

and error correct. So am trying to find and examine all the subleties that might be the culprit. yeah, I

know, I really need an external display for critical color work. But the laptop screen, properly calibrated,

ought to at least get me about there, neither too light or too dark. I am using PS CS, epson paper and ink,

and the epson supplied profiles. My current theory is that the laptop lcd display is just too bright. But

maybe I'm wrong.

 

When I calibrate the laptop monitor with my eye-one, it doesn't seem to matter what luminance level I

calibrate to. When eye-one asks me to "match" the screen brightness with the on screen dohickey, I play

with the brightness on the keyboard but none of the dohickeys move at all.

 

Am I on the right track with the screen brightness being the culprit? Any other theories? this happens

with multiple printers, including a new 3800 with epson profiles and an ancient 2000p with custom

profile.

 

Insights gratefully appreciated! John

Rent a 5d and set it at 3200 (actually H on the ISO settings) and use whatever focal length

lens you need to get the pics. For a wedding, shoot close to wide open if you need to,

making sure the shutter speed is fast enough to capture the ecstatic newlyweds. Focus

carefully on the happy couple. Use a tripod. If the image is too noisy for your taste,

download the free trial of Noise Ninja and make it better. If all this works for you, buy a 5d.

It's an awesome camera.

One more vote for Sterlingtek. Work great, cheap, umbelievably fast service. Just as good as

good service gets.

My experience is just like Bob's. The vendor claimed I hadn't sent in the UPC codes from the

boxes. I called Canon USA directly, and a very helpful person called me right back and solved

the problem in one day. Once the rebate company says no, if you know you're right, go

directly and right away to Canon. Shouldn't have to be that way, but it works.

Lots of us have had Canon rebate problems. I got help from Canon USA and mine was

favorably resolved. I'd be happy to try to help this person. But where in the world on

photo.net is the Canon forum? The only one I have ever known is this one, the Canon EOS

forum.