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ulrik_neupert

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Posts posted by ulrik_neupert

  1. Take your time in comparing the cameras side by side. BTW I found the mirror shake of the Hasselblad better dampened than of the Bronica SQ-B. I would vote for the Hasselblad (I have the 500 c/m, SWC and a selection of lenses). I like its handling but you should have mechanical sympathy and never force the camera. As you want to take portraits you may want to buy a 150mm tele lens in the future. Although Hasselblad lenses are very expensive, the 150 mm lens can be found quite often on the secondhand market for a reasonable price because it is very popular. You will maybe need a 10mm extension ring for it...

     

    Have fun

     

    Ulrik

  2. This has been covered before but I will repeat the instructions. It is really easy if you don't mess around with a poorly fitting screwdriver. The magazine light trap for Hasselblad consists of two pieces: a foil and a strip of metal with foam. Wen you disassemble your magazine, look how these two pieces are arranged inside before throwing them away. For changing the light trap you have only to remove the forward facing frame plate which is held by a number of small black screws. Do not loose one of them! Put in the new light trap, fix it with pushing a dark slide against it so that it stays in proper shape while putting the frame plate back in place and fix the plate with the screws. 15 minutes work or less.

    Ulrik

  3. I asked Hasselblad-Sweden about using the PME90 with the microprism/split image screen. Here is their reply:

     

    Dear Mr. Neupert,

     

    Yes, the Acute-Matte D with microprism/split image works fine with the

    PME90, EXCEPT in spot mode with max. effective apertures DARKER

    than f5,6. (Thus not recommended for a few lenses or lens/converter

    combinations).

  4. My comment regarding the spare part availability of Hasselblad/Zeiss lenses from the early 60s is based on experience I made with my 250mm lens from 1965. Hasselblad and Zeiss could not repair a shutter problem (it was covered in an old post). The service at Zeiss did not open the lens to have a closer look at the mechanism when they saw from the outside that the lens had an early shutter version for which they had no spare parts. Maintaining a huge stock of spare parts for very old lenses is something even Zeiss cannot guaranty. There are of course independent repair persons who might help you if there is a problem, in my case I was lucky to give the lens back to the dealer where I had bought the lens 18 months before. Surf the net to find out how much you have to pay for a 3.5/60 lens and buy the 4.0 version only if it is much cheaper and comes with warranty. I would consider it more a collector's item. Ulrik
  5. I think all lenses for Hasselblad are good lenses, at least for the time when they were built. There are two chrome 60mm lenses. The 5.6/60 (dim focusing screen!) was built from 1959 to 1961, followed by the 4.0/60 available from 1962-1963 before this focal length was discontinued until 1976 when the entirely redesigned 3.5/60 appeared (all data from Rick Nordins "Hasselblad Compendium" which I highly recommend). Keep in mind that it will be very difficult to find spare parts for the silver 60mm lenses. Consider the CB 3.5/60 mm lens, especially if you need a reliable lens of highest sharpness and contrast. I heard that this focal length is very popular for weddings.

     

    Ulrik

  6. Equipment does not have to be too expensive. I bought two used Rollei P66 projectors from the late 1970s/ early 1980s with 110-160 Zoom lenses and dissolve unit in Germany for about 1000 US$ (they needed some repair recently which was carried out at the Rollei factory in Braunschweig/Germany for a very reasonable price). These projectors have a flat body so that the lenses are close together and alignment should be easier than with Kindermann projectors. And they have autofocus which makes it more relaxing. The new Rollei projectors are even better built and also useable for 35mm slides. A 6x6 slide show with dissolve unit is a great experience. Well, I don't try to earn money with it. Now if I could find glassless mounts that hold my slides flat (tried Gepe, Hama and Kunze so far).

     

    Ulrik

  7. This should be normal behavior. The mirror of your camera is not large enough to provide you with a full viewfinder image. If it were bigger it would interfere with the back elements of some lenses. However the photos will show no vignetting. The same effect is visible with e.g. older Hasselblad cameras and lenses of focal length longer than 150mm.
  8. "A swivel is an apparatus joining 2 parts in such a way that they can turn independently". But pictures say more than words: http://www.manfrotto.com/ or the RRS catalogue. Again, this swivel head is fine with a Hasselblad and 250mm lens, it also locks firmly with the 500mm lens but I have not really used this combination so far and doubt that it makes much sense.
  9. Hi, I use the Gitzo G1563 Reporter Mk2 with Manfrotto Monopod Tilt Top 234 (US code Bogen 3232)and Hasselblad Quick release. This is a great combination for the Hasselblad with lenses up to 250mm focal length. The Monopod has 4 sections. I extend it to 3 sections when working with the waist level finder and use the 4th sections when working with the prism finder or the Hasselblad SWC. If you do not use Hasselblad you should have a look at the quick release from Really Right Stuff. All these companies have pages on the web for further information. Ulrik
  10. Maybe I am a snob. But why should I use a Diana or Holga when I have the finest 6x9 cameras, an Agfa Synchro Box and the final result of box camera evolution:the famous Agfa Clack which I bought in excellent condition for 15 DM (8 $US). I have to admit that these cameras are reliable and lighttight and have (I think) glas optics. But if the results are too good you can always switch the Agfa Clack to close focus.

     

    Ulrik

  11. 500C cameras with interchangeable screens are quite common. These transitional models are 500C/M cameras with an old identification plate. The 500 series cameras have been improved continuosly in many details without a change of the name. This is typical for Hasselblads low volume production. I have 2 500C/M bodies (from 1976 and 1984) that are different in shape of body and viewfinder, have different light baffles, bayonetts, bottom plates, magazine mounting hinges etc.. Or look at the three different types of SWC/M cameras...

     

    Ulrik

  12. In case you already have some Hasselblad stuff like film magazines you might consider something I found recently. Kalimex ( http://www.dedal.cz/optics/ ) sells a Kiev-derivative, the Hartblei 1006 which accepts HASSELBLAD film magazines and viewfinders and Pentacon lenses. The Hartblei 1006 Master body with mirror lock-up costs 525 $US. I have never seen or used it so I cannot comment on it's quality. Maybe somebody else has used it or the film magazines they sell and which are compatibel with Hasselblad.

     

    It would be cheaper than a conversion of a Hasselblad body. Or simply buy an Exakta 66 Mod III.

  13. I know nothing about the Pentax. But in Hasselblads the mirror seems to be placed on foam pieces. These have to be replaced from time to time before they deteriorate and change the focus. At least I was charged for that when I sent my cameras to the service. Maybe it is similar with the Pentax.
  14. The magazine light trap for Hasselblad consists of two pieces: a foil and a strip of metal with foam. The latter might be what they call "gears", but I don't know. So when you disassemble your magazine, look how these two pieces are arranged inside before throwing them away. For changing the light trap you have only to remove the forward facing frame plate which is held by a large number of small black screws. Do not loose one of them! Put in the new light trap, fix it with pushing a dark slide against it so that it stays in proper shape while putting the frame plate back in place and fix the plate with the screws. 15 minutes work or less.

     

    Ulrik

  15. Your SWC/M is a common camera. There are three version:

     

    SWC/M with CT*-lens and megaphone viewfinder

     

    SWC/M with CF-lens and megaphone viewfinder

     

    SWC/M with CF-lens and square viewfinder

     

    As far as I know the difference between the last SWC/M and the 903 SWC that followed is a relocated camera strap attachment knob on the camera side with the winding crank, coating of the interior with a new light absorbing material and later 903 SWC's have the new style quick coupling shoe. Older SWC cameras do not allow the use of polaroid magazines. SWC cameras with silver barrel lens and the first model years with a black barrel do not have T* coating. So thats the SWC-story.

     

    Ulrik

  16. Don't buy a "push-it-in-one-side-take-it-out-the-other" as long as you can afford something else. When I gave away my Malisix (push-it-in-one-side-take-it-out-the-other-type) for a Rollei I began to enjoy my slide shows. My Rollei is from the 1970s and the small design faults it has have been corrected with the newer models. Rolleis service is, at least here in Germany, excellent. Recently they extended their warranty to 3 years. A second Rollei will allow you to built a dissolve unit which is great, especially with 6x6 which has no change between portrait and landscape. Unfortunately the low market volume for MF projectors does not cover the costs of developing a projector with two lenses that allows dissolving with one projector like there 35mm model which is great (I have one). Go for Rollei as long as you do not want to spend a fortune for the Hasselblad projector which for sure is the best available.
  17. I use a Gitzo Monopod with Hasselblad cameras and lenses from 38 to 250 mm. My monopod has 3 extensions, I need two extensions for use with the waist level finder, 3 extensions with the Hasselblad SWC or 35mm SLR. Don't go without a quick release system. I use the monopod more often than my tripod because I have to carry all my gear in a backpack. I also use the hasselblad hand held but prefer the monopod because the improvement in camera steadyness is obvious.
  18. In Ecuador I found an interesting way to take portraits of children. I did not always like to take (shoot) candids with a telephoto. Which is not so easy to do unobserved with such a big camera and such curious children anyway (I did some candids with the 500C/M with waist level finder and 250mm lens placed on my lap while sitting in a street cafe). Instead I let the children look through the waist level finder at their friends. They had a lot of fun and I had some nice opportunities to release the shutter. Of course I let them rotate so that every child could see through the camera and stand in front of it. The best lens for this was the 80mm, because the children come quite close, they know nothing about the minimum focusing distance of my 150mm lens. Playing with the kids seemed to me much nicer and was much more fun than giving them candies or money for posing, although I had to clean the camera more often.
  19. You should tell us a bit more. The lenses you are mentioning are in production for decades but have changed significantly. There are silver C-lenses, black C-lenses and CF lenses. They differ in antireflection coatings(multicoatings are marked as T*), mechanical construction and handling. The 500C/M is a great camera, but when was the last overhaul? If it was made in 1980 it should be in need of some foam repacements. Does it have one of the old, dark screens? Look at the magazine inserts, they have a three digit number that should correspond to the serial number of the magazine shell. Check if they are lighttight or some light traps need replacement (I bet they do if they have not been renewed during the last years) Only test shots will tell whether the shutter speeds are o.k., the optics in good shape and the spacing between the pictures is fine. It is a nice list of equipment but you need to look at it very carefully and have to compare prices. There is much more advice in the archieves.
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