ulrik_neupert

Ken,

the results are not acceptable in case you are not competing with a toy camera. BTW, I happen to be selling a mint 40 mm C-lens. Contact me off-list if you like.

 

Ulrik

I use the Arsat 30 mm on my Hasselblad. It is a nice lens but prone to flare. Get a multicoated version.

 

Ulrik

Lightweight + low cost + good support of heavy gear = wooden tripod. Have a look at www.berlebach.de

 

Ulrik

Just another point: The 350 C and 350 CF lenses do not have a tripod mount. So the 350 SA/body combination is better balanced on a tripod.

 

Ulrik

If you prefer wearing glasses when looking through the prism over adding a diopter to the prism eyepiece than take the new PM45 type. If you can live with a diopter eypiece (where you have to take off your glasses) even the old NC-2 type prism is very good (and cheap, and not so ugly!).

 

Ulrik

Your camera is from 1976 (no ELMs were made in 1969, only ELs). Use the first two letters, the third letter "E" (E=Electric?)appears on EL and ELM cameras up to 1978. It is similar with SWC cameras where the third letter is a "W" (W=Wide?).

 

 

Ulrik

Here is another vote for the Sto-Fen Omnibounce. I use it attached to Metz 45CL-units in Auto mode with my Hasselblad SWC (38 mm Biogon).

 

Ulrik

Dear Ted,

could you please share your experience with the solutions that you were not happy with. (I myself had been thinking of the Hartblei 65 mm lens as interesting).

 

Ulrik

Unfortunately the position of the magazine is not exactly defined on a Hasselblad, there is some sideward play. Try it yourself, take your camera with the attached magazine and see yourself, how much play your setup has. So when you reattach the magazine after the first exposure there may be some offset.

 

Modifying an old 12 type magazine so that it does not transport the film when the camera is cocked is a good idea. Transport of the film would be done by turning the winding key of the magazine and controlling the transport to the next frame by peeping through the rear hole. At least this is cheaper than buying a 200-/2000-series Hasselblad where you can disengage the film transport by pushing the button in the centre of the winding crank during transport.

 

Tell us about your results, good luck !

 

Ulrik

All three lenses might be fine for you purposes. I prefer focal length of 120-180 for portraits. I use them all for landscapes. Do you want to handhold the camera without monopod or tripod, then do not take the 250 mm lens. Do you want to buy a new lens, then the 180 mm lens is the best option for the future because it has data bus contacts. Do you want to buy second hand, then a 250 mm lens is for sure among the cheapest on the market. Do you want to carry the lens for long distances, the 150 mm lens is quite lightweight. It is a difficult decision, try before you buy.

 

Ulrik

So far the Agfa Optima 160 Portrait (now discontinued I believe) and the Agfa Optima II Prestige 100 have given me very nice colours for portraits. Of course only in combination with a good lab. I have used the Agfa Optima II Prestige 100 also for nature shots, the results were fine.

 

Ulrik

The split image will not get dark as long as you look at it at the right (90°) angle. The split image acute matte D screen is the best screen I have ever used. It converts 30+ year old cameras into convenient high-tech devices ;-) It is much better than the old split image screen (where the split image was oriented diagonally on the screen which i really hated).

 

Ulrik

I have a couple of East German and an Ukrainian lens adapted to my Hasselblad focal plane bodies. This was done by a very good technician whom I supplied with defective extension tubes, teleconverters etc. for rear lens mount parts.

 

Ulrik

The Hasselblad PM45 finder is a high eyepoint-design, you can use it without taking your glasses off. I never tested NC-2 and PM45 side by side, so I am not able to comment on brightness or contrast in comparison.

 

Ulrik

Everything will be easier if you buy a second Hasselblad body with focal plane shutter from the 200- or 2000 series. You can buy a Hartblei 65 mm shift lens from http://www.kievcamera.com/ with Hasselblad mount. Zörk offers a 50 mm Mamiya shift lens with Hasselblad mount.

 

Ulrik

I had the Kiev NC2 copy. The glass elements of the ocular were not coated. As I would expect this from a Hasselblad prism, the Kiev clone might show somewhat less contrast. Nevertheless it was very nice. In the meantime I have sold it and bought the Kiev TTL/spot prism which did not cost much more.

 

Ulrik

For portrait photography I have two Carl Zeiss Jena lenses converted to Hasselblad focal plane cameras. The Biometar 2,8/120 mm has 8 aperture blades, the Sonnar 2,8/180 mm has 7 aperture blades. No automatic aperture of course.

 

Ulrik

A late Hasselblad 500 CM like this with warranty is the camera to go for. There are earlier 500 CM cameras with a less good internal coating against flare, less sturdy magazine catches etc. My 500 CM cameras are from 1984 and 1986 and are of the newer type. Have a look at the magazine. The "A12" type is more comfortable to use than the very old "12" type. "A12" type magazines from around 1984 and later are a little more comfortable to load because of a small change of the magazine insert. Make sure that the three digit number of the magazine insert is the same as the last three digits of the serial number of the magazine shell. Be prepared to spend money on an Acute Matte D screen (I prefer the split image/microprism type over everything else).

 

Ulrik

I would buy a late 500 CM and add an Acute Matte D with split image and microprisms. The 501C was only available in black :-( You should also think about a 2000 FCW or 2003 FCW (where the shutter is in perfect condition). All 80mm CF lenses take B60 filters. Buy these filters, there is a reason why Hasselblad chose the bayonett type. But you can also use 67 mm filters via adapter, also together with the lens shade. Buy an A-12 back where shell and insert have matching numbers. I prefer backs that were made from 1984 because film loading is slightly easier, but this is not really an issue. To test for overlapping frames you have to shoot a roll of film. Light leakage through the darkslide slit can be seen with the naked eye. Installing a new light seal is a very simple do it yourself job. I use Metz 45 series flashes. Very sturdy, long lasting devices that require no extra grip. A Gossen Digisix meter would be enough for a start. I use a Gitzo 326 tripod with Arca Swiss Monoball B1 and old style Hasselblad quick release. Perfect for me.

 

Ulrik

The following lenses can definetely be adapted:

 

3,5/30 mm Arsat,

2,8/120 mm CZJ Biometar,

2,8/180 mm CZJ Sonnar,

4,0/300 mm CZJ Sonnar,

4,0/300 mm Pentacon (Meyer Görlitz),

5,6/500 mm Pentacon (Meyer Görlitz)

 

I am not sure about other lenses. For comments about the quality of these lenses go to http://www.pentaconsix.btinternet.co.uk/LensTest.htm

 

Ulrik

The Metz 45 series is fine. I chose the 45 CL3 and 45 CL4 because they have more tele-computer apertures which gives you more choices for fill-in flash in daylight.

Try before you buy! It is very heavy and minimum focus distance was a disappointment (no portraits possible on 120 mm setting without extension tube). The camera does not exactly feel well-balanced with such a huge lens. Nothing bad can be said about its optical quality however.

Gabriel,

I made a crude 9V battery converter for Hasselblad EL cameras myself out of a piece of wood , two screws, two washers and a 9V battery connector, 10 minutes work, 20 cent material cost. The battery is put in one compartment, into the second compartment comes the piece of wood which serves as an accu dummy with the + and - cable ends fixed by screw and washer on each side of it. It works fine, no problems. No need to make some ebayer rich.

 

Ulrik

Is it possible to adapt the Carl Zeiss Jena Flektogon 2.8/65 mm

Pentacon Six lens to a Hasselblad 2000 series camera? Or will the

mirror hit the rear lens?

 

Ulrik

To cover this topic completely just let me add that Hasselblad 2000 series cameras allow double exposures. You can cock the shutter by turning the winding crank while pressing a button in the middle of the winding crank. The film transport geartrain is disengaged this way. (no need to sell your Hasselblad gear and to buy Bronica stuff).

 

Ulrik