Jump to content

holding-on


Wayne Sadler

1/320's, ISO 200, focal length 100mm and imaged at a distance of approximately 2ft.


From the category:

Nature

· 201,396 images
  • 201,396 images
  • 631,988 image comments


Recommended Comments

I intentionally omitted the f/stop for this image, but I will say that

this grasshopper was cooperative and allowed me this portrait at f/3.2

and f/8. I am learning that I can’t handhold worth crap (too much

amphetamine in the system - just kidding ) so I awkwardly fumbled with

a tripod for this image. I should report that to my untrained eye I

cannot see much difference between the f/3.2 and the f/8 image (the

background is my only clue). Comments and critique would be

appreciated.

Link to comment

Doing macro photography, I discovered...that I am a very unstable person..lol... I usually carry the camera on the tripod for macro, I have one that goes all the way to the ground; very handy. I often use it like a monopod when I can't spread it out without disturbing the surroundings. With practice though you can get some very decent shots handheld, I have manage to do stacks handheld...But I use the tripod whenever I can.

Link to comment

Thanks, Line.  I thought I was the only who had to use a tripod.  BTW, are you creating any of your amazing portraits of late with the Tokina?

Link to comment

This is a "decent" field macro photo. Colors are fine, the diagonal orientation of the subject (and the cross twigs on the background) adds dynamism to the composition and the sharpness is good enough to attract attention on the grasshopper.

If i should find  cons here this is certainly the background. Amazingly i see it all the time in PN (in macro and landscape photographs mostly). It' s the "leftover" noise, maybe fron the enhancement proccess. A nice bokeh is the ideal but a smooth background is the second best (and a "must") i.m.o.

 

Keep shooting,

 

Michalis

Link to comment

Hi Wayne,

Hand holding a 100mm lens at close range does take practice, as does establishing the correct perspective and point of focus.

For myself, I have no issue at 1/25 second, and if I have to hand hold any 100 mm below 1/10 second then I up the ISO or use a flash or ring light. After that ,the tripod/monopod become an option.

Your perspective places you below this creature , thus limiting the clarity level at wide open apertures. You need to be above and looking downward to the left, and then at F/2.8, the insect would be in best focus.

The working distance is improved. I see that you changed cameras again. The Nikon D90 is far less demanding as is the Nikon D7100 for critical focus.

The overall clarity level is below average for a lens like you have, but in time, you should improve your all around skill level.

Best Regards my friend, Mike

Link to comment

Thanks, Michail.  I appreciate and agree with your observations. 

Thanks, Mike.  Excellent observations and very helpful advice.

Link to comment

Mike,

Yeah, had to send the 7100 back to Nikon for repair.  The shutter tab (probably not the correct term) was sticking.  I started to pull out the trusty oil can or lube gun but thought that might be a little heavy handed.  Started to ask you for suggestions, but felt I had used up my quota of questions for the month.

Link to comment

Wayne A very nice macro work! very nice composition-sharp and very nice colors.But is a little bit disturbing(white spot at the bottom of the jumping cock(noise) and two leaf right above,You had maybe clone away.This my opinion Best regards janegbert

Link to comment

Thanks, Janegbert.  Spot on with your critique.  Those things bothered me.  I think I was too rushed to post.  I should know better than to go out "half -stepping".

Link to comment

Hi Wayne,

  Beautiful macro with wonderful colors, composition & details.  I don't no what f-stop you used, but I think you nailed the lighting my friend.  Take care, Patsy

Link to comment

Hi Wayne,

There are no quotas for you asking me advise. If I have the answer, you will get it.

If I have to guess, then I do not know, and will not provide you with that fact, too.

As for the Nikon D7100, you did the correct action.

Here at my shop, I often can repair most anything on a camera, but if it is relatively new, I send it off to which company I obtained it from. Lens are different, as all lens are maintained by myself.

Best Regards my friend, Mike 

Link to comment

Some were taken with the Tokina, others with 18-200mm Nikon. I like the Tokina for portraits and use it whenever I can. Those are all street shots, so I was not always at a distance to use it...

Link to comment

Patsy, Ruud, Laurent, Mike and Line,

Thanks much for your time to offer support - comments and critique from talented artists are invaluable.

Link to comment

Hi Wayne,

Nice bug!

Just a couple ideas that may/may not be useful. This seems quite a crop, since you were 2 ' away, you wouldn't get this much on the sensor, and this is why the "noise"in the bg is so obvious. Also seems, just a guess, that wasn't much light. Generally, it seems to me, the lower the iso, light and conditions allowing, the smoother the over all image, noise-wise. with 100 the best you can do with outside shots when there is good light. That can't always be done, so, working with what you've got, you can clean things up a little in PS or another program (sagelight is pretty good too) In this case, you could simply use your "blur" brush to roll over the bg portion to take out a lot of the noise.  By using "levels", you could get the hopper a little more "pop"- you just need to play with the sliders.

Another way is to isolate the bug, then use filters>gaussianblur   on just the background. Or, make a copy layer, blur the whole thing then carefully erase the bug part, revealing the original sharpness there. I'm sure there are other ways too.

I was going to show a quick example, but this seems to be a gif file and I can't open it in PS.

Always enjoy your posts!

G

Link to comment

Thanks, Gregory.  Good processing suggestions. I think normally I am employing something like that to separate subject and background,  but with this image I rushed to display my first true macros.   This may be worth working on some more.   

Link to comment

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...