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Modern lightweight studio flash kit


james_gumm

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I have just been told by the powers that be, that I can get myself a

new studio flash kit. I am wanting a medium price range, lightweight

kit that would come complete with stands and case, etc. THe color

consistency is very important. My older kit was Novatron, ok for

some, but unreliable color consistency. I'll need 4 heads and about

2000 watt seconds. Can any of you knowledgable, and kind folks give

me some ideas?

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Try Elinchrome Style S Monoblocks ($619, 600WS each). If you want to spend more money and go with packs, you could go Profoto Acute 24 (3 heads) and a monoblock or two packs and four heads. I have also been impressed by the Visatec line distributed by Hasseblad.
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Dynalite will be a better way to spend your money in the long run

than Elinchrom or Profoto or even Speedotron or Comet, and

don't even think about Normans. I own Elinchrom monolights

and while they are terrific units, the Dynalites will be better

workhorses down the road.

Get two M1000x packs and four heads: 2 of the standard 2040

heads and one of the bare bulb designs (4040?) and one

bi-tube head. <P>Over the past twenty years I've worked with

virtually all major brands of electronic flash -- I currently own a lot

of Balcar and Elinchrom gear -- and most of the professional

"road warriors" I know own and rely on Dynalites.<P>I

recommend pack and heads over monolights because ofthe

built in redundancy. If god forbid a stand topples over you just

loose a head and not a head and a pack the way you would with

a monolight. Secondly: you have more versatility in setting power.

if you need all 2K w/s in one softbox you can hook both pack to to

the bi-tube head.<P>Any way, that is my opinion. Good luck!

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Dynalite will be a better way to spend your money in the long run

than Elinchrom or Profoto or even Speedotron or Comet, and

don't even think about Normans 9way too inefficient compared to

these other brands) or the Profoto Acutes (ask a repairman). I

own Elinchrom monolights and while they are terrific units, the

Dynalites will be better workhorses down the road.

Get two M1000x packs and four heads: 2 of the standard 2040

heads and one of the bare bulb designs (4040?) and one

bi-tube head. <P>Over the past twenty years I've worked with

virtually all major brands of electronic flash -- I currently own a lot

of Balcar and Elinchrom gear -- and most of the professional

"road warriors" I know own and rely on Dynalites.<P>I

recommend pack and heads over monolights because ofthe

built in redundancy. If god forbid a stand topples over you just

loose a head and not a head and a pack the way you would with

a monolight. Secondly: you have more versatility in setting power.

if you need all 2K w/s in one softbox you can hook both pack to to

the bi-tube head.<P>Well, that is my opinion. Good luck!

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Ellis has it right on the money...when you say "lightweight" you are by definition talking about Dynalite.

 

They still pack more watts per pound into their gear than anybody in the market, and the packs are simple, rugged, and reliable. I have 6 of them, several of which have been working steadily for years, and no problems to date.

 

My "location" kit has 2 very small Lightware cases that I can easily carry by myself. In one of them are 2 1000 packs and 2 1015 mini heads, and in the other are 2 500 packs and 2 more 1015 heads (I have found over the years that I don't need big wattage packs very often, as I like to shoot at wide apertures for selective focus, but having one pack for each head REALLY simplifies things when you need to work fast and still have absolute control over your ratios).

 

So that kit gives me 3000 watts and 4 heads in the smallest possible cases, and you can't beat that.

 

I'm really impressed with the 1015 "mini" heads. They look just like the standard 2040 heads, but have no blower and take a maximum of 1000 watts. They are incredibly lightweight, and I can get them up on little mini-booms for hairlights, which is not possible with the bigger heads...you need a full size boom for that, and a heavier stand to hold it, and that means carrying a lot more weight. ( You do this for a few years and you get a little fanatical about cutting the fat out of your kit!)

 

The 1015's are also much cheaper than 2040's, so I think that's the way to go UNLESS they will be in softboxes all the time OR you need to put more than 1000 watts through them. Softboxes cause the heads to get very hot, so you need blowers for that. The 4040 head is the BEST way to go for softbox use, but also the most expensive. I use only umbrellas with my 1015 heads so it's never an issue.

 

I also have a "studio" kit that I prefer not to travel with unless it's a big job, and that has 2 2000 packs and 4 4040 studio heads in a large Lightware power case. And of course I can combine both kits if I need more power or heads.

 

Dynalite also makes a nice range of shaping tools, heads, and packs, so you can easily expand your system when you're ready. It's a good idea to think beyond your present needs when you're investing in lighting...maybe you don't have any use for a head that can put out a 4000 watt pop now, but if you ever do, you will be glad you don't have to buy into another system to get it.

 

I've owned Normans and Speedotrons, and used Profoto in rental studios, and if I had to do it over I would buy Dynalites again without a second thought. Dynalites are very simple, but they will seem like Rolls Royces after using Novatrons! My strobe repair guy in LA won't even work on those things, been shocked too many times.

 

The other thing I would encourage you to look at for your system is the right cases. I will state flatly that there is ONLY ONE WAY TO GO, and that is Lightware, with Tenba a distant second.

 

Having the right cases makes a big difference in how easy it is to transport, carry, and organize your gear, and nobody comes close to Lightware in my opinion. They are expensive, but so are good lights, so you're investing in protection for them.

 

Mine have about a squillion miles on them, and they aren't even dirty. Nothing sticks to them, they're lightweight, and virtually indestructible. You will never regret owning them.

 

Good luck to you!

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Thanks, gentlemen, for all the great responses. I, too, am leaning toward a two or three of the Dynalite 1000 watt second packs, a couple of fan heads and a couple of standard heads and a couple of bare tube heads. Are their lightstands sturdy, yet lightweight, any suggestions there? I like the liteware cases alot so I must be headed in the right direction. Also, what is the best or a good wireless trigger system? Thanks for all the help. BTW, I've been a photographer since I was eighteen and am forty three now so I at least I have experience.
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My completely unbiased, in no way influenced, and purely motivated suggestion for wireless triggering is a <a href="http://www.pocketwizard.com">PocketWizard</a> system.

<p>

Okay, so I work for PocketWizard and I might be little (well ... totally) biased. Is that a crime? I hope not!

<p>

Sorry, all. It's been a boring day. No one called and asked how to photograph tigers or missles or basketball stars or anything like I usually get. I actually cleaned my office...

<p>

(sigh)

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Hey Patrick,

 

Since we're being completely unbiased and motivated by only the purest of motives here, I have a proposition for you.

 

As a highly paid, big time Hollywood photographer to the stars, I would be happy to endorse the Pocket Wizard system if you will send me a couple of transmitters and receivers for free.

 

I would, of course, toss all my Q------- units in the trash...

 

Whaddya say? :)

 

 

Moses Sparks

Staff Photographer - Universal Studios, Los Angeles

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