bounce or diffuse or both or what else

[kent_morris]

I severak times have taken engagement photos and similar shoots for a

few friends always giving the caveat that I am an amateur, but so far

my friends have always been pleased. But, they have been couples

shots outside with fill flash, which I am reasonably comfortable with

at this point.

 

Anyway one of these couples asked me to take a few groups shots at a

reception. It will be indoors, fluorescent lighting, 9-10 foot

ceiling (or a little higher?) I would guess. My indoor flash shoots

never turn out quite as good as I'd like, and i haven't quite gotten

the slow and rear sync stuff down. The shutter speed is always to

slow. So i'm just wondering for a group of 10-12 people what is the

best way to do this. I have a Nikon N75 kit, an sb23, and was

thinking about picking up an sb28 for this. Should i go for the sb28

and bounce, get a diffuser for the sb23, use a certain film type?

 

It's fun, and I don't think they want professional stuff or they

would hire someone (we did discuss this briefly) but I also want to

do a decent job for my friends. Any tips would be appreciated by

this amateur.

 

Thanks,

Kent

[ellis_vener_photography]

<I>My indoor flash shoots never turn out quite as good as I'd like, and i

haven't quite gotten the slow and rear sync stuff down. The shutter speed is

always to slow. So i'm just wondering for a group of 10-12 people what is the

best way to do this. I have a Nikon N75 kit, an sb23, and was thinking about

picking up an sb28 for this.</I><P>

You are over complicating it.<P>1.) forget about slow andrear sync -- they will

only add green from the fluorescent lights and blur from people moving,

people blinking, & you moving (unless the camera is on a tripod).<P>

2.) You need more power so get an SB-28/ -28DX/ -80DX or -800.<P>3.) Also

forget about bouncing. the light for a group shot you need as much depth of

field as possible and bouncing the light or using a disfuser will reduce the

maximum amount of light you'll have to work with.<P>

3.) To improve the light quality get the flash off the camera via a Nikon SC-17

cable or two. You can set up the light on a stand or have someone hold itfor

you , or you can hold it. The latter appraoch is easirer if you put the camera on

a tripod. This will free up at least one hand.<P>4.) I would try a good ISO 400

film like Kodak Ultracolor 400 or Fuji NHG II. i<P>It is always better to shoot

some test shots ahead of time and see what combination of craft and film work

for you.

[kent_morris]

Thanks for your input, extremely helpful. I am planning on getting the SB28 most likely since now I have an excuse:) I am not sure I understand how getting the flash off the camera with the cord +/- stand would improve lighting (this is my inexperience and ignorance showing through, sorry).

 

Also you prefer the Ultra over the Portra? The name of the latter would imply it is made for portraits, but I have not shot either film. I will probably try to shoot a roll ahead of time, but I don't really have time to go shoot a bunch of rolls of both to decide between the two.

 

Thanks again, the input is both very helpful and truly appreciated!

 

Kent

[bruce_rubenstein___nyc]

Kodak did a name change and Portra UC400 is now Ultra Color 400.

[arjen van de merwe]

On camera flash is not good lighting for portraits. The basic problems are twofold:

1. the light source is very close to the lens, so the shadows will be behind your subjects. This means you do not see them in the photograph. A photograph is a flat piece of paper. To convey depth you need the shadows visible in the photograph.

2. The light is much stronger close to the camera, and much weaker further away. this means that objects close to the camera will be overexposed, and subjects further away from the camera (backgrounds) will be under exposed.