Wedding By Leica R

[khiem_nguyen1]

Hi all , a friend of my family had asked to shoot a few wedding

picture for their daugter at the local Park this saturday 21/2004(

Balboa Park San Diego and La Jolla beach). I plan to use my R3-R6 ,

Summicron R 35mm, 50mm ,and 90mm. with metz 32ct4, vivitar 283-285

for fill flash , the film I plan to use are Fuji reala 100, and Kodak

Potra 400VC. Any one who has some experiences please give me some

comment and sugestion. Your inputs are greatly appreciated !.

PS there are only 6 people in the picture , Bride , Groom , maids of

honor , best man ,and 2 9 yeas girls.

[Uhooru]

I was thinking if you do a search on google or any search engine under wedding photography, you should see loads of sites with examples of photos. That should at least give you some idea on how people compose the photos.

Good luck!

[m_.]

I shoot weddings in documentary style and normally with one camera and one lens (normally 35mm) but always carry a second backup with a 21mm.. I only shoot weddings from people who agree to let me in anywhere including the dressing rooms as part of the condition - guess I have the luxury for not making money out of doing it. But since I shoot them as documentary events, I don't gain much experience as other typical "wedding" photographers do. My 2 cents.

[m_.]

Oh yeah, for the most part, I don't know how to use a flash with my Ms.

[jay_.]

Sorry, I never shot a wedding with my R system. It did get me what the bride gets on the wedding night though.

[john_collier2]

STOP RIGHT NOW.

 

Do your friend a favour a go and hire a professional. Wedding photography is not about

equipment. It is about the ability to deliver consistantly good results under a great deal of

pressure. Hair, posing and facial expressions are far more important than lenses and

flashes.

 

I am not knocking your equipment or skill. Normally if we have one or two keepers per

roll, we are pretty happy. That is not good enough for formal wedding photography

PERIOD. Every shot has to count, one or two that don't may well be the only ones Great

Aunt Marsha, who died the next day, were in. You get the point?

 

Offer to shoot the causals during and after the wedding. Don't be a fool and try to do the

formals with no experience.

[chas._buffamanti]

this is a free forum...WHY DOES A PIG like JAY get to spill filth here..isn't there

some way to censure him.

?

[__jon__]

>chas. buffamanti , feb 19, 2004; 05:15 p.m.

this is a free forum...WHY DOES A PIG like JAY get to spill filth here..isn't there some way to censure him. ?

 

C'mon Chas. Jay isn't so bad... just like hemorrhoids, you'll get used to him. Give him a break on this post anyway. He is the only guy who didn't get laid on his wedding night.

[michael s.]

Chas:

 

Think of Jay as a combination of Norman Mailer, Mike Ditka, and Don Rickles. Once in awhile a bit of Joan Rivers creeps in, too. I'm not sure why.

 

An acquired taste ... and to be sure, some will probably never acquire it.

[joseph_barbano]

Mr. Nguyen,

 

I tried sending this to your e-mail address, but it was inactive.

 

Over the years, I have performed similar wedding photo shoots with my R system (R4s, then R7, now R8). I usually shoot what used to be called Vericolor VPS 160 Kodak print film. Great skin tones. I believe it�s now called Portra 160VC. I don�t think you want or need ISO 400 film for outside. If the weather is really overcast then maybe 400. Do a test roll to make sure if you have the time. As far as flash is concerned I always used my 283 on a Stroboframe bracket even though I also have various Metz flashes with and without TTL. I used the Metz as backup.

 

For metering I always used a hand held Gossen Luna Star F meter in Incident mode(with built-in flash meter) to confirm the picture/exposure. Forget Reflective light metering because of the extreme brightness of the wedding dress and darkness of the groom/ushers tuxedos. You'll have problems with skin tones possibly if you don't use an Incident meter and/or will be depending heavily on the latitude of your film.

 

For exposure I always used �spot� metering on the camera for available light exposure of teh "subject faces" and then set the 283 Auto range to 1 or 2 F-stops less light for fill. That way you'll kill the shadows, not blast out the white dress, and add a little sparkle to the eyes. Again, using the hand held meter helps.

 

For lenses, invariably, I stay within normal to mild telephoto focal length, i.e. no wide angle (distortion) and no serious telephoto (chance for red eye but not too bad during outside shots). Aperture is about f/8. In your case, 50 and 90 mm are ideal. ALWAYS, get tight shots of the bride/groom. I also use a tripod not so much to steady the camera but also to keep the wedding party positioned properly relative to the camera. Do some research on the positions and poses you want the wedding party to assume. They�ll be depending on you for direction.

 

What else, bring PLENTY of Batteries. Check out your gear; make sure it works. If you have two cameras, alternate with the bodies in case there�s a failure with one body. Also if you have a P&S digital, bring that, just in case. Scope out the location site you�re going to in advance, and if possible near the time you�re photographing. Pay particular attention to the sun position when you�re there.

 

BTW, I would always tell the people for whom I was photographing that if the pictures didn�t turn out and meet their expectations, I didn�t want this to be a reason for losing our friendships. After all, I was taking the pictures free of charge, so they needed to appreciate that. And, fortunately, I never had a disaster and things worked out well.

 

I hope this all doesn�t sound pedantic, it�s just that I learned most of this from experience, good and bad, and I�m just passing it along. Really, doing wedding photos is nerve wracking, especially when it�s for friends. I only do it for those friends who don't have the bucks to spring for a professional wedding photographer, or for other photographer friends who trust me yet are prepared to accept the consequences in case things head South. Good luck.

[mike_webster]

As a relative newcomer to this forum, I�ve found Jay�s commentary no worse than the quality of some of the images posted. At his best, he�s provided an informed commentary that�s provided this reader with new and otherwise unavailable information. The humor may, at times, be sometimes bent, but so what. It makes for interesting and more times than not, amusing reading. If you don�t like how he expresses himself, click the mouse and move on to another thread.

 

Regards ...... Mike

[c_d5]

This question is more appropriate at the "people photography" forum, go to the "wedding" folder in that forum, there are many wonderful advice, there. Unless of course, you think that somehow, a leica will make a different to your picture. If you don't get paid for it, go for digital and then burn all your pics in a CD. Very economical and make good sense. Otherwise, you ended paying for everything yourself. Of course, if you can only limit yourself to two rolls, it might turns ok. Here is a good link at "people photography" forum regarding wedding advice. I only shoot wedding in b&w.

 

http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=005yNG<div></div>

[andy m.]

There's some truth in what John says. Weddings are a big deal to cover. You must be sure you can produce the goods, and by this I mean a majority of well composed, well posed, well exposed images.

Nothing at all wrong with your gear, better than many pros. You seem to only have a small group to deal with, which will make things significantly easier.

 

I covered the wedding of a close friend last year- they couldn't aford a pro, and I'm glad to say, things turned out very nicely indeed. It was very stressful though, but I am very glad I had the oportunity. Good luck!

 

Maybe Al Kaplan will post here, he seems to be heavy on relevant experience and light on sarcasm..

[crackers_.]

Great. Now I can't shake this image of a bride carrying Jay through a doorway.

[kevin m.]

"If you don�t like how he expresses himself, click the mouse and

move on to another thread. ..."

 

If only it were that simple Chances are, he'll have posted there,

too.

[victor_cruz1]

I think we should re-name this forum into the Jay Photography Forum. Just about every post recently turns into a discussion about Jay. It's insane!

[todd frederick]

I have shot weddings with Pentax K-1000 cameras and old mamiya C-330 cameras. It's not about the equipment!

 

I now use only totally auto equipment so I don't have to be distracted with camera mechanics. It's all about the human dynamics of the wedding itself.

 

You also need to get involved in these dynamics and be ready for whatever is happening at a moment's notice.

 

The wedding is not a flower. A wedding involves people and you must be ready for whatever happens, and for what goes wrong....and it will...and adjust. Doing good wedding photography is 95% experience with understanding the dynamics of the human element in the wedding event, and less than 5% equipment.

 

You really should work with an experienced wedding photographer on many weddings before even attempting to do one on your own.

 

The best way to lose a friend is to photograph their wedding with no experience regarding the dynamics of the wedding event.

[al_kaplan1]

Well, Andy, Al Kaplan IS here! Thanks for your faith in me. I've shot my share of weddings over the years. Most were with a twin lens reflex like my Minolta Autocord or Rolleiflex until I got a Hasselblad 500CM. I still think a leaf shutter camera has major advantages where you're working outside and using the flash for fill because you can shoot at 1/250 or 1/500 second.

 

Most (all?) wedding photographers have a mental check list of the "must have" photos. I think you'll be all right with an R camera and a Vivitar 283. I'd try to keep direct sun off the faces if possible, use the sun for back lighting so it rim lights or edge lights a stop or two too hot, with the flash being the pimary light on the shadow side. The film has a bit of latitude, more for over exposure than under exposure, but be careful you don't burn out detail in the whites. I like to use an incident light meter. Get pix of the bride's mom or maid of honor fixing the bride's veil. One photo of ALL the bouquets together, one of the bride and grooms' hands showing the rings, posed over the flowers. One of the best man adjusting the groom's tie. Shoot candids during the ceremony.

 

I like to start the "formal pix" with the one that has everybody in it first, gradually dismissing people when you're through with them. You need the bride and groom with HER family, and then with HIS family. You need one with the bride with the bridesmaids and flower girl. One with the groom, best man, any other man in the wedding party. A pic of the groom putting the ring on her finger, and a pic of the first kiss. The bouquet toss to the girls there, the garter toss to the single men. Then get some posed pix of the bride and groom together, both full length and 3/4 with the bride holding the bouquet. Have her hold it low, not on her chest. Get pix of the bride alone. Better to shoot too much than not enough! At the reception get the best man making a toast, the new couple's first dance, and anything else that looks interesting.

 

Better to shoot too much than not enough. While you can probably cover the entire wedding and reception on 3 36 exposure rolls don't be afraid to shoot twice that! Bring plenty of film and extra batteries. Always have that second camera loaded. Have fun! Best of luck. If you get the chance examine some of your friends' albums.

[mike_elek]

Having shot about five weddings as favors, I'd say don't do it. Or make clear that you're not a professional wedding photographer. Lower their expectations.

 

One flash should be sufficient. Make sure you have a spare set of batteries.

 

Lately, I like Portra 160NC. I like the softer tones. I would also bring some B/W. Stick to print film. But definitely use film that you know. A wedding is no time to test new equipment or film.

 

If you can swing it, I would bring two cameras. You don't want to run out at a key moment. You can always change film when there's a break.

 

You'll need to get the usual shots. But also try to do something creative. And if possible, check out the location and lighting ahead of time. You might be able to get some ideas. There are some very good books on wedding photography.

 

I shot a wedding last year for a former co-worker, and it was held in an old, creaky building with a very, very dark interior.

 

To make things worse, the groom was VERY nervous and rocked back and forth the entire time. They didn't want to use flash during the ceremony, so even with a 400 speed film, it was dicey. I took a lot of shots -- more than usual -- and good thing I did, because more than 2/3 were blurred by his continuous rocking. The guy was like a hobby horse.

 

I carried four cameras: 35mm rangefinder, an X-Pan, a medium format SLR with two backs and a higher-end P&S for some quick grab shots. And a flash and tripod. Worked out well, and everyone was pleased.

 

Planning ahead will help you the most.

 

One final piece of advice: Don't get on the bad side of the bride's mother!

[christian_hilmersen1]

Take a look at <a href ="http://www.jeffascough.com/">Jeff Ascough's site</a> . I have always looked wedding photography as something for the drawer, but his shots are truely fantastic.... I am sure your equipments isn't your limiting factor.

[mark_lloyd1]

over the years I have taken many portaits, helped models develop their

portfolios, created wonderful pack shots (in my opinion anyway) and

shot loads of architecture commissions.

 

I have used just about every format and type of film conceivable.

 

But......

 

I have never worked as the main wedding photographer no matter how

much anyone has said they would love me to.

 

Why? Not because I don't think I could get a few great shots.

 

Not because I have trouble posing people.

 

Not because I don't have the equipment or expertease to use it.

 

And.... Certainly not because I think wedding photography is beneath

me. In fact far from it.

 

I have watched many wedding photographers work and it is hard.

 

No one every wants to stop their conversations and come pose.

 

The bride has a million and one things on her mind.

 

People who haven't seen each other for years want to dash around kissing

and saying hi.

 

The children are bored and crying.

 

Hats blow off.

 

To cap it all the vicar doesn't want any pictures in the church which are

the ones you have been specifically asked to get.

 

And then disaster the lab screws up the film.

 

It makes me stressed just thinking about it - hats off to people who can

make a living with this much stress.

 

I have however often shot informal reportage style candids for friends at

weddings and most of the long list of problems above provide great

oportunities for those.

 

My advice is simple let a pro take responsibilty for the main shots and

offer to take some informal candids, that way you can relax - enjoy the

wedding and hopefully you will capture a few great images to suppliment

the wedding album.

 

You will retain your sanity and I guarentee you that everyone will remark

how poor/expensive the wedding photographer was while looking at your

images and remarking how wonderfull they are and how much better it

would have been if you had shot the wedding.

 

But.. you will know how much easier your job was and will take you hat

off to the much maligned wedding photographer as I do.

[Karim Ghantous]

Chas wrote: "this is a free forum..."

 

Exactly.

[fotografz]

Too much irrelevant info here.

 

Khiem outlined a specific task he was asked to do:

 

"a friend of my family had asked to shoot a few wedding pictures for their daughter at the

local Park this saturday 21/2004 ( Balboa Park San Diego and La Jolla beach)."

 

A few wedding pictures at parks, NOT the whole wedding. You guys would scare the shit

out of me with your answers, and I've done hundreds of weddings in the last few years.

 

(Khiem, click on my name here and go to my photo.net wedding folder. Also, look at Mary

Balls' photo.net portfolio ... she has a lot of outdoor stuff like you'll be shooting).

 

Khiem, Al gave you some good tips. I'll add a few of my own specific to your task (which

may repeat some of Als):

 

First, you didn't say what time of day you'll be shooting. Earlier AM or toward sunset is

best IF you have a choice... ESPECIALLY at the beach. If you don't have a choice, and it's

open sun, seek shade. If on the beach in full sun you WILL need fill flash to eliminate

"raccoon eyes".

 

The only gear advice I would add is to get a diffuser to soften the 283/285 flashes (and

bring both of them in case one fails).

 

If there is someone that can help you, you can skip the fill flash and use a big white

reflector to act as "fill". At the beach, this may be a better solution because your Rs only

sync at 1/125th of a second which will force you to stop WAY DOWN to avoid over

exposure that'll blow out the brides dress. (when I shot with Rs, I used a neutral density

filter or polarizer to enable use of wider apertures when using fill flash... still do

with Ms).

 

If in the open sun, obviously use the ISO 100 film.

 

Remember, at the beach wider scenes will be highly lit, so you have to compensate one

and a half to two stops or it'll be gray underexposed mush. Like Al said, neg film has more

latitude for overexposure than underexposure. Or use the R6 spot meter on a medium

tone like a patch of grass or shadowed skin.

 

With just 6 people use your 50mm for a more natural look to the perspective.

 

Bride and groom in the center, flanked by best man and Maid of Honor. Place the 9 year

old girls in front against the men so they separate in the image. Then try a few other

configurations that look good to your eye.

 

When shooting formals of the women, have them hold their flowers low like Al said. The

reason is that it makes their torso look longer and is slimming in effect. Tell them that and

you'll only have to tell them once ; -)

 

People tighten up when getting their photo taken, they lift their shoulders and pull in their

chin. This causes double chins and stubby necks. Have them relax their shoulders by

slightly stretching their neck while lowering their shoulders, and have them lift their chins

slightly. Tell everyone to blink, and then look at the lens... take the photo. Shoot each

pose a number of times because someone WILL blink just as you shoot.

 

Watch where the hands are placed. The girls usually have flowers to occupy their hands,

but the men don't, so they're just dangling there. A classic pose is to cup them in front.

But a more casual pose is to have them stand 3/4 to the camera with their feet slightly

apart and their hands in their pockets with the coat opened. This is more appropriate for

outdoor formal shots.

 

If you do a seated shot, get down closer to their level for a few shots. And have the

subjects point their knees away from the camera.

 

Best of luck.

 

(here's few shots from a beach wedding where I only used a M7 and Hasselblad X-Pan):<div></div>

[fotografz]

This one was in full, clear sky, sun.<div></div>

[al_kaplan1]

Marc has some great info. Last night I was half asleep and got a bit carried away with some stuff more apropriate to a bigger wedding. With 2 cameras, 2 flashes and plenty of film I'm sure you'll get some good shots. Let us know how it turns out! I tried emailing you last night and couldn't. Update your address on photo.net! If you have any questions email me.