10D and furniture "portraits"

[linda_pullman]

I have a chance to photograph furniture � mostly couches and sofas. I

am experienced in portraits but not in furniture/commercial. Please

help.

 

1. Could you tell me how to set the lighting? How many lights do I

need? Are umbrellas OK? Bounced or through? Do you know any links?

 

2. How to show the texture, type of material?

 

3. Is 50mm f/1.8 lens good for this? This is the only fix focal I

have.

 

4. Is 10D good for this type of commercial photography? I think I can

expect real natural colors, but am afraid of the sharpness. Would

35mm camera be better?

 

5. Any other tips?

 

Also I am afraid that USM could lower overall quality. Actually, the

pictured will be used for catalog not for enlargements, so maybe post

processing won�t be needed. What do you think?

 

Thank you, Linda

[linda_pullman]

Additional info:

 

Each item will be photographed separately (and then cut off the background in PS).

 

Thanks, Linda

[ky2]

How exactly do you think a piece of furniture would differ from say... a piece of a person? Lighting still applies the same. It also doesnt matter (other than the price of film) if you shoot digital or 35mm-- unless you plan shooting extreme distorted closeups with a wide angle lens.

[mark u]

Obviously it will help to shoot aginst a chromakey type background to do the isolations. If you want to show texture, then side lighting helps - but don't make the shadows too harsh. Use close-ups of fabric or wood grain as additions to whole piece views. In general though you'll want to use diffuse lighting as shadows are distracting in product photography. You may find a polarising filter useful to get rid of any shiny reflections. Mostly you should avoid using wide angle lenses that distort the perspective, and make sure your verticals are vertical (line up camera on tripod with a spirit level). Shoot 3/4 views rather than head on unless you're showing e.g. detail of marquetry. Try to think what features of the pieces are their selling points and emphasize those if you can. Get hold of the catalogue descriptions to help you. Depending on the colours/styles of the pieces, you might want to use slightly warm light to give them appeal. Ask for nice throw cushions for chairs and sofas.

[yakim_peled1]

>> Is 50mm f/1.8 lens good for this?

 

I really don't know (never tried it) but I think I would be more comfortable with my 35/2 at hand. With the 10D you are looking at the 20/2.8 (as a 32/2.8). It really depends on the size of the furniture and your distance from it.

 

Happy shooting ,

Yakim.

[linda_pullman]

Thank you very much for your answers .Tey are interesting and helpful.

 

Linda

[scott aitken]

Some of your answers may depend on what the end use is for your customer. Are

they using the images for brochures, catalogs, newspaper ads, websites, or what?

Unless they produce very high end furniture and really extravagant promotion pieces,

then they will probably appreciate having the digital files from the 10D, rather than

scanning it all. I have switched to using a 10D for all product photography unless my

client specifically needs film for some reason (which is rare). Normally, I shoot in RAW

format, and convert to TIFF files to give to the customer. Usually, I do little or no post

processing of the images, and leave it up to them to fiddle with color, USM, or

whatever they want, though I'll do that for them if they ask. Depends on who they are

using for their catalog production. The 50mm lens should be fine. Any of the better L

series zooms would be fine too. Personally, I would be reluctant to use any of the

cheaper consumer zooms. With furniture, I would use fairly direct even lighting. You

don't have to worry about red-eye, and if your lights are too far to the sides, you

could cast odd shadows from the arms. Someone suggested a polarizer. I doubt you'd

need it for couches and sofas, but it may be a good idea if the furniture is polished

wood or other large shiny surfaces (like tables), but if you do, then you have to

polarize your lights before you pop a polarizer on your lens if you are shooting in a

studio (normally, polarizers only work in outdoor natural light).