Effect of pk-11; pk-12; pk-13 on 24mm AF 2.8 lens?

[donald_kim_lewiston]

Hello, I already own a 60mm micro lens so I wouldn't really need my

24mm to serve as my primary macro lens. What I am looking for is

the ability to focus a little closer, yet keep somewhat of a wide

perspective/background on my image. I saw an incredible poppy image

a few months ago that highlighted a poppy (probably 1:4 or 1:3) in

the foreground and yet was still able to show a vast background of

poppies and sky behind it. Would adding one of these extension

tubes help me with this type of image? I'm sorry, don't know too

much about tubes. I emailed Nikon and they told me that these 3

tubes would work with my 24mm lens.

Thank you for your time,

 

Donny.

[joseph_smith3]

Hi Donny, they should work with your 24mm lens. They will allow you to focus closer. The greater the mm of tubes added, the closer you can get. There will be some loss of light, but if your camera has TTL metering, the meter will calculate the proper exposure. The AF lens will not work in AF, but manual. This link might help you understand the math involved when you add tubes to any lens. Joe Smith

http://kenmcvayphoto.clymbers.com/articles/extensiontubes.html

[donald_kim_lewiston]

I plan to use these with my N80 body. Will metering be a problem? Would I need to use a separate light meter?

 

Thanks,

 

Donny.

 

ps. If metering is not functional, would the Kenko 12mm auto tube be the next appropriate choice?

[mskovacs]

No metering with tubes that don't have electronic contacts like the Nikons. The PK-11A is going to have you up to nearly 1:2 at infinity with about one stop of light loss. (the 24mm is not a symmetric design)

 

I believe there's a tiny ring from the ancient K series that's even smaller but I don't know whether it would mount on your camera without damaging the CPU contacts.

[michael_bradtke]

The Kenko tubes will let you meter. I have used a 12mm kenko tube with my AF 20mm f2.8.

Works very well but the working distance is very close.

[david_h._hartman]

Unfortunately the K1 and K2 Rings are on the F80s no-no

list in the F80 instruction manual on page 34. The K1 Ring is the

ring of interest. Its a 5.8mm extension tube. Its

recommend for use with the 20/3.5 and 24/2.8 AI and AIS but Im

quite certain that electronic contacts on AF and P type lenses

will rub the K1 ring. Check your lens manual.<br>

<br>

In short the K1 and K2 Rings are not compatible with either your

camera or lens. <br>

<br>

---<br>

<br>

For owners of some other Nikon cameras<br>

<br>

The K-Ring set is compatible with the F through F4, FM2n and FE2.<br>

The K1 Ring is but the *K2 Ring is NOT compatible with the F5, FM3a

and D2H.<br>

*The K2 Ring can be installed in the K1 so the whole set can

still be used.<br>

<br>

The K-Ring set is NOT compatible with the F100 and D100.<br>

<br>

Please double check your camera and lens manual. YMMV!<br>

<br>

For more information please check...<br>

<br>

<a href="http://www.naturfotograf.com" target="_new"><u>http://www.naturfotograf.com</u></a>

<br>

<br>

Regards,<br>

<br>

Dave Hartman.

[albert_smith]

Just now, in response to your question, I put my 24mm f/2.8 AIS (same optics as your AF lens) Nikkor on my PK-13 tube and mounted the pair on my F3.

 

I tried to focus by bringing the camera in tight on a flat surface, but before focus could be established, the HN-1 hood impacted the surface. I removed the hood, and could focus, but the front element was almost in contact with the surface... no working space at all, and no light could hit the surface because the lens and camera were blocking the desk lamp.

 

FWIW... I have a transparent ruler, and back-lit it to see how much reproduction I could get with the PK-13 and 24mm lens. I could cover a span of about 1 and 1/8th inches on the long side of my finder, or just a bit greater than life-size (1 and 1/2 inches). The difference between the lens being focused to infinity or the minimum distance was not a big factor, since the tube is many times the extension of the normal focusing action of the lens. Additional to the reproduction scale, the ruler test also showed a great deal of barrel distortion with the tube.

 

I don't believe the set-up would be of true value based on my quick test here. The lens is just too close to the focus plane with such a long tube. There is a reason why longer macro lenses are prefered for some subjects, and that is working distance.

[Michael R Freeman]

Perhaps this table from the PK-series instruction leaflet will help.<div></div>

[david_h._hartman]

<em>"The K-Ring set is NOT compatible with the F100 and D100."

--David H. Hartman<br>

</em><br>

Wrong: Ive checked and found the K1 Ring fits my F100. I

partly installed the tube and pressed the corner of a sheet of

paper between the K1 and the plastic block that holds the

electronic contacts. It could be pressed in about 1cm showing

clearance on two sides and it could be moved from side to side. I

did this in about three steps and there was no conflict between

the F100 and K1 Ring.<br>

<br>

In a similar way the K2 Ring fits but only locks in two out of

three positions. The K2 Ring is a low priority item.<br>

<br>

The K1 Ring is NOT compatible with any lens with a chip and

electronic contacts. <br>

<br>

The advantage of the K1 Ring is it is just 5.8mm of extension and

can be use with lenses as short as 20mm. The disadvantage of the

K1 Ring is it offers no auto aperture functions and no meter

coupling.<br>

<br>

Test in stages, take care. If it fits it fits. YMMV.<br>

<br>

Best,<br>

<br>

Dave Hartman.