Monolight specific suggestions - home, portrait

[jeff__2]

After reviewing all the posts about portrait lighting, etc. I still

need some specific suggestions. I want one (eventually maybe 3)

monolights (no separate power supply) for portrait photography at

home (AC power). I want a large range of adjustable power outputs,

excellent built-in slave (digital camera pre-flash?), and

compatibility with soft boxes and umbrellas.

35mm only - slides, b&w, digital.

Profoto, Dynalite, Speedotron... what specific models have most of

the bells & whistles to allow lots of growing room?<div></div>

[bob_macdonald]

Jeff.....

You might check out the Calumet Traveites (by Bowen); I believe they are available in 350WS and 750WS models. I have three of the 750WS models which I bought several years ago. No complaints...even with a lot of hauling them around in my truck. Loading, unloading, etc.

 

The power is fully variable over 5 "f" stops. Modeling lamps are 250Watts, and also variable in power. I think I gave about $1500 for all three with case, 8' stands, umbrellas, etc when I bought them.

 

I'm sure there will be other brands mentioned that you can "digest"

Have fun!!

[timberwolf1]

I don't know of any monolights that use pre-flash; this is only offered on portable flash mounted to hotshoes.

 

Since you are wanting "growing room" here is my recommendation: Speedotron Force 10, 1000ws. Use one for a main, one for a fill. You can use it with fresnel, softbox, beauty reflector 22", it has a 7-8 stop range. This is a "Rolls Royce" unit, no compromises (uses a Motorola 68815 processor inside) which would be used as a main light. About $750. Go to www.speedotron.com

 

You will then use more inexpensive units for the hairlight, kickers, and background lights. I suggest alienbees at www.alienbees.com in the b400 size. This is 160ws; effective 400ws unit They are dialable down to about 10-15ws. You need low end coverage for that digital camera. About $250 with uv tube.

 

Both units have remote control. The Speedotron uses a Palm computer, the alienbees have their own panel.

 

Both have built in slaves, but you can add an aux. slave for whatever purpose for each type.

 

When you buy Speedotron, you have great accessories that are true elliposoidal design.

 

When you buy alienbees, you have Balcar accessories which are world class. The difference is that the Speedotron has a straight tube, the alienbees have a flat tube. The flat tube is not usable for fresnels. So, you use the Speedotron for your fresnel light.

 

For a cheaper used system, I would put together something from Norman --a p404 system used. These are dialable and total price used is about 30% less than the alienbees.

 

The Speedotron Force 10 will fill out a softbox. The softbox will take 2 stops power. You will not need more power than this unit will give you. For a typical portrait at f5.6 at 100asa, you will be using 1/4 power, as a matter of fact.

 

Although I am sure that other photographers will chime in and tell you that you should "pay alittle extra" and get some alienbees that are more powerful "in case you need it". I advise against this. There are very few units on the market that will dial down to 10-15ws. The Speedotron will dial down to 37ws. You need to be down in the 15ws-25ws range for hairlights and kickers. 15ws is only 1/2 stop below this 25ws.

 

The alienbees and Speedotron units have "ticklers" which make sure they will fire at low power settings. This is important. This is a reliability feature.

 

The Speedotron units have the toughness of design to take big softboxes with ease using their adapters. They also have 250 watt modleing lights, suitable for main light work. The alienbees have 100 watt lights which are only good for hairlights and kickers. 100watt modeling light is not enough to illuminate through a softbox unless you are in a very dark room. Therefore, don't use alienbees or any unit that has a 100 watt modeling light for a main light through a softbox. This simple fact will help you filter out all those other choices of units out there. 150 watt modeling lights are borderline OK. But 250 watt is professionally comfortable.

 

If you are going to use a ringlight, then for only this reason I would consider Profoto for you.

 

Monolights are fun to use; and they are simple to dial in power. The Speedotron will do 1/10th or 1/3 stops variation.

 

But honestly, my recommendation is a high end recommendation. The only way you could make it any better is to trade the alienbees for 2-3 Speedotron Force 5. Therefore, you would have 2 Speedotron Force 10 and the rest Force 5. The Force 5 dials down to 18ws.

 

But the reality of all this is if you are only going to do simple portraits, you could do it all with a used $300 Norman P500 used unit on the auctions. It would have a 100 watt modeling light, and 250ws for the main light, which is plenty for a portrait.

 

www.speedotron.com

www.alienbees.com

 

So my recommendations are based upon your idea of "growing room".

 

Timber Borcherding timberborcherding

[bruce_rubenstein___nyc]

The Quantum T2D and X2D flashes when used with the appropriate TTL adaptor will give preflash with digital cameras. However, If you use multiple lights and/or modifiers like umbrellas or soft boxes the TTL won't give the proper exposure. With pure studio lights you work in manual mode and use a light meter.

[kevin_kolosky]

Jeff

 

I have been using PHotogenic Powerlights for years with wonderful results. Easy to get their accessories. Work great.

 

Make sure you budget for a good flash meter. The best I ever used was the Minolta V.

 

Kevin

[wayne_seanard]

White Lightnings. X800s for normal portrait and if you want more then X1600s. Great lights at good prices.

http://www.white-lightning.com/

[jeremy_du_brul]

My set up is a mix of White Lightning and Speedotron Brown Line, and I couldn't be happier with the set-up.

 

You can slowly build up and on... a Speedo BL 800ws pack is about $200+ used, then you can get 2 M-11 heads for about $125.00 (or less) each used as well. I've owned my set up (used when I got 'em) for 6 years and never had a problem. A good 4'x4' softbox and an 11" reflector w/ a grid set and a 7" with a grid set (get the litesox diffusers too) and you can be pretty well on your way.

 

Get a couple of 300ws range White Lightnings and Balcar reflectors (I've found spectacular deals on those)and there ain't much that you cannot do. I would suggest mixing up the package. You have all of the advantages of the two and serious flexibility.

 

Most importaint, a good lightmeter and polaroid capability. Get a Crown Graflex with a 4"x5" polaroid back that takes pack film (about $200.00 for the whole rig). Gossen, Sekonic and Minolta are the only meters to consider ($200+ investment).