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Noctilux once again


diego_k.

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After seeing once again my G2 kit (28-45-90) just sitting in the

closet after so much time without use, I started wondering whether I

should just trade it for something I might use, so there it hit me

NOCTILUX, got into the investigation. Read just about everything on

Photo.net, Erwin�s review, private mails with owners of the lens,

photos posted online as to appreciate the fingerprint of the lens, and

generally speaking looks great. Unfortunately I don�t have any

Noctilux around in Madrid, no store holds them as stock, and hiring is

not possible till the moment (can�t find any), that is why I ask here.

 

I�m currently using as primary camera a Mamiya 6 with 75mm lens, and

M3 with 50/2.8 elmar. I love normal length lenses and rarely use

anything else; I do find sometimes lacking speeds on the low light

situations.

 

You can see some of my recent shoots here (loads quite slowly):

http://misfotos.no-ip.org/diego/novedades/index.swf

 

After all I read there are some questions I can�t answer since I don�t

have access to the lens itself:

 

1. Is the focus shift Erwin refers to, a real problem you can see in

the photos?

 

2. How do you find it when using handheld at F1?

 

3. Vignetting is severe as I have seen, but then again I have seen a

lot of pics that did not show that much, how do you like/handle it?

 

4. I know its big, not a real issue, but how much intrusion is there

in the M3 viewfinder?

 

5. Any version preferred over others? (depends a lot on who wants the

G2 kit in trade;)

 

6. Is coma a real issue? I have seen the swivelling OOF backgrounds, I

like it but could get tiring right?

 

7. Any other issues I might have overlooked?

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To your no. 7: yes, there's competition. Cosina brought out an M-mount 35/1.2. I have no reason to think they'll bring out a fast 50mm lens -- but f1.5 does seem a bit pedestrian compared with 35/1.2. If Cosina were to bring out a fast 50mm lens, I've a feeling it would be a lot cheaper than the Noctilux. Well, that's all imagined only -- but meanwhile, isn't there a Konica 50/1.2 at less than stratospheric price?
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1. Yes, you have to be careful at f/1.4 to f/2 at close distances.

 

2. Fine, that's kind of the whole point of the lens, no?

 

3. Vignetting isn't a concern if you're in an "available darkness" situation. The only time it really annoyed me was shooting the dawn sky at f/1.

 

4. Dunno

 

5. Dunno

 

6. It got tiring for me. I traded my Noct for a 75 lux, and am happier with the OOF signature of the 75.

 

7. If you can afford it, I would get a used one - I think everyone should try it to satisfy their curiosity. You can pretty much recoup the funds if you don't like it. I'll probably get another Noct one of these days, I miss going out with it at night to restaurants, etc.

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Most Noctilux buyers sell off their lens after many months; after the honeymoon phase is over. It is a big lens; really cool for available light work. When you are maxed out in asa/iso; and down to 1/25 sec with your F2 lens; the Noctilux allows 2 more stops in its central core. Many Summicron users base the Noctilux; and say just push the film. It is not a replacement for a Summicron; you will grow tried of its size. If your M cameras rangefinder is slightly off; you will be dissapointed with the Noctilux. I view the Noct as a tool; like a giant sledgehammer; it does the job well for specialized applications. It is not a replacement for a Summicron; one doesnt hang pictures or build bird houses with a sledgehammer; but a smaller hammer.<BR><BR>
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GET THE NOCTILUX.

 

its a very specialized tool. and a lens to have at night. people say its big... but what else are you going to use at night? there is the canon f.95 lens to consider as well.

 

to me there are many comprimises...but then you ask yourself... if i'm going to do available night shots... which lens could i use? well.. you don't really have the luxury of being picky here...

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>1. Is the focus shift Erwin refers to, a real problem you can see in the photos?

 

No.

 

2. How do you find it when using handheld at F1?

 

The extra weight and size of the Noct is an asset, when shooting at slow shutter

speeds and f1. I recommend a .85 viewfinder or a .72 with the 1.25 magnifier. If you

can live without a built in meter, try a M3 (.92). At close ranges it is next to

impossible to shoot a moving target at f1 and get it in focus. At 1 meter DOF is about

1 inch! So, I tend to shoot f1.4 for closeups and goto f1 at greater distances

 

3. Vignetting is severe as I have seen, but then again I have seen a lot of pics that did

not show that much, how do you like/handle it?

 

It's there, but unless you are shooting in daylight or someone standing against a white

wall it's not that obvious. If you scan your negs you can always remove it in

photoshop. It's part of the Noctilux, look and is mostly an issue at f1.

 

 

4. I know its big, not a real issue, but how much intrusion is there in the M3

viewfinder?

 

I have the version with the clip on hood, which blocks about 30% of the finder, so I

shoot hoodless. My biggest complaint about the Noct is that by Leica standards it's a

big and most of all a heavy lens. It weighs between 550-640 grams and is a PIA to

carry around all day long. Especially if you like to wander around with just your

camera slung over your shoulder. That's why I have a Summilux and Cron.

 

5. Any version preferred over others? (depends a lot on who wants the G2 kit in trade;)

 

I would recommend the second to last with the clip on hood. I would take a look at

the current one and see if the collapsible hood works for you.

 

 

 

6. Is coma a real issue? I have seen the swivelling OOF backgrounds, I like it but could

get tiring right?

 

Depends what's in the background. Most of the time it's liquid smooth, but sometimes

you get something unusual going on back there.

 

 

7. Any other issues I might have overlooked?

 

Minus:

 

It's big, it's heavy and has a long focus throw.

 

F1 is difficult to use closeup, because of the extremely narrow DOF.

 

The hoods are a pain in the you know what, because they either block the viewfinder

or can't be locked into place (collapsible).

 

It's big. Handle one in person before you buy it. This is the number one reason why

people end up selling it.

 

Plus:

 

It is very sharp, even stopped down.

 

The Noct is the most flare resistant lens I have ever seen, period. It's is truely amazing

in this respect.

 

It may be the best low light lens ever made. It's shadow penetration ability is amazing.

 

Shots taken with the Noct do look different...

 

 

Feli

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Feli is not joking. The Noctilux is the most flare resistant lens I have EVER used. Like him, I

discarded the hood and find the lens works just fine without it. Yes it is heavy. The only

drawback for me is losing the ability to focus to 0.7m. I find myself frequently having to

back up with my Noctilux.

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The Noct is very flare resistant; and is an amazing lens to use. I almost never use the hood; and use an M3 with a long baseline. The lack of close focusing doesnt bother me at all. DOF at 1 meter is nil; about +/- 1 cm. Plus my M3 has not been modified to focus closer than 1 meter. Here I can use asa 800 Fuji print film; F1.0; and 1/25 sec to shoot in dim lite areas. I know how to set the shutter by the detent feel in no light; the notch faces out. One click over and I am at 1/10 second.
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Diego, you stated that you use a 50 f2.8 Elmar with your M3. Well, how about getting a 50 f1.4 Summilux? I just bought a virginal 2nd Version (#11114) with 43mm filter size and snap on hood. Smaller than the Noct, and f1.4 gets a lot of low light situations. It's better than the Noct at every f-stop except 1.0. If 1.0 is the subject of your lustful thoughts, then get the Noct, but if you want low light and portability, consider the Summilux. You don't need to get the latest (it's expensive). Mine was made in 1981, and works perfectly.
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