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10D partial metering


linda_pullman

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Thank you Gerry. Actually, I have one more question. You say that partial metering should be better than matrix. But what if I want the background to be nicely exposed. I�d like the camera to be inteligent and see and expose properly both main object and a background. Can 10D do this?

 

Thanks, Linda

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Correct me someone if I am wrong. But, with I have experienced I can say that matrix or partial metering depends more on the subject.

 

It may\maynot be possible to properly expose for the background and the subject. If background is dark and you are exposing for that small candle light then one wouldn't want to expose for the wall or the darkness around since there is nothing there. Partial metering for the candle however is a good thing. Matrix metering will not good results here.

 

Also, if the light is low, you can't have a lot of DOF and hence background may come out blurred. However, in bright sunlight conditions you may not have to pull up any answers since either partial or matrix would do just fine.

 

Bottom line : Choose the area which you want to shoot. If you want to get some details in darker areas, meter for mid-tones. And try AEB to look for meanigful answers to your preferred style of shooting.

 

I hope it helps.

Happy Shooting,

Raj

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Matrix metering with 10d gives more importance to shadows and you get a properly exposed shot for the shadows. Sometimes this will result in burned highlights. I usually set my camera to matrix metering and set exposure compensation to -3/4 when highlights are present. Or you can do partial metering on the highlights and later adjust levels/curves in photoshop to bring the shadows back.

 

Now regarding your question about Can this camera expose background and main subject?, it depends. If the scene is too contrasty, it is difficult to properly expose background and the main subjet. Fill flash will help a lot in this situation. This problem is there with films too.. but with digital it is a little bit more tricky because digital's dynamic range is limited compared to print films., but it is vey close to slide films.

<p>

Ramesh

<br>

www.world-of-photos.com

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Andrew: agreed; the "intelligent" light meters are actually best used by those who understand light metering in the first place, and the Zone system.<BR>

Ramesh: that is very good advice; I tend to revert to Center-weighted metering because of the evaluative (matrix) metering algorithm; it is very frustrating to have those highlights blown off, when in the same lighting conditions using slide film the highlights are properly exposed.<BR>

Linda: partial metering (and you can consult your manual) is about 9% of the viewfinder area; it only resides in the middle, and that bright circle (you'll notice when you look through it: it is that area that is brightest if, say, you're looking at a flat one-coloured surface).<BR>

Remember, this is <i>partial</i>, not <i>spot</i> metering; spot metering would require a smaller surface area (thus, spot). Few Canon cameras, like the Canon EOS 3, can have other focusing points other that the center one (a few around the vicinity of the middle one) linked to spot metering. This is no the case in the 10D.

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It's easy to use the central area as a fat spot meter. Move closer to the subject (or

zoom in if you have a constant aperture zoom) to meter the areas you are curious

about, and decide exposure after that.

 

I find that if I put half the circle over a bright area and the other half on a dim area I

get a pretty handy tiny averaging meter. Not quite as nice as a true spot meter, but

still useful in its own way.

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