Sekonic Flash Meter

[jeremiah_johnston]

I have a question that I cannot seem to find an answer for in the

threads. I shoot a Canon Elan 7e, and have a shoe mount quantaray

and a slave quantaray external flash unit for lighting. I recently

set up in a gym (everybody�s favorite location) to do some simple

portrait work. The light came out evenly distributed, shadows were

minimal but the pictures had to be saved on the printing side

because the negatives were two to three stops underexposed. I have

been thinking about getting a light meter, Sekonic comes to mind but

I am unsure about what to get. I know that the flash meter

capability is essential. My question is with multiple flash units do

you have to stand in the place of the subject and fire the flashes

to get the proper reading? Is there a way like with the spot meter

to read the �scene� from the camera position while firing the flash

units to get an overall light reading of the entire scene? If not

what is the best way to get a proper meter reading for this type of

situation? Thanks in advance for any information in this area.

[james_castagno]

Taking the reading from the models position/ incident reading with a flash meter is the way to go, I do not think I have seen anyone shooting flash use a flash meter to take a reflective reading to determine exposure.

[richard_cochran]

Either way is possible, but I'd guess over 90% of people over 90% of

the time use a flash meter in incident mode from the

subject's position. This way, you're consistently reading the

light intensity, rather than having your measurement influenced

by the subject reflectance. In most studio setups (as opposed

to outdoor wildlife photography or astrophotography, for

example), it's about as easy to take a reading from the

subject's position as from the camera's position.

<p>

There are various methods that work if you use them consistently,

and some debate as to what's "best", but for starters, stand at

the subject position, point the dome toward the camera, and fire

all the lights at once to get an overall exposure reading. If you

want to set ratios (here's where there's some debate), fire one

light at a time, and point the dome toward the light you're measuring.

<p>

But if you really want to use a flash meter in reflective mode,

go ahead. Most flash meters will do this, by simply sliding

the dome out of the way. Some can even be

used in spot mode. When used in reflective mode, flash meters

have the same issues as any other reflective meter --

they're influenced by subject reflectance.

[timberwolf1]

Yes, you need to put the incident meter in the place of the subject. And if possible place

the spot dome in the most important place: the eyes of the subject.

 

You may need to shield the dome alittle to compensate for the peculiar effect of

microshadows and "light skip" or sheen of of the subject. In otherwords, the dome is very,

very wide angle, accepting light from more than 180 degrees. It may be effected to

underexpose due to accepting light from a bright side light or an overhead light. You will

be shielding the dome alittle using your hand, and doing this with alittle creative

experience. Therefore, you need to be there in body and soul.

 

Many a time have I simply left a meter on a chair while I walked back to the camera

position to do a reading. But I was using simple straight ahead light, so I got an accurate

reading.

 

When you start to add light from different sources, they overlap here and there. How and

where they overlap makes a difference to you. If they are overlaping over the cheeks, and

eyes, you need to take a reading there. If they overlap on the person's feet, well, this is

not such an important spot as the face. So, you need to be there to do an accurate job.

 

Some photographers cut corners by simply reading each light separately, then

mathematically adding up the sum. This is not as accurate as taking the exposure from

the eyes area, for example. If you use flat light, your job is even easier, and exposures

less trying to a beginner.

 

I think you could simply hold a small $9 flash unit in your hand, while you are at the

subject's position, and point this weak little flash at the sync eye on your pack or main

mono light. All the other lights will trigger, too, as a result. The small handheld flash will

not be recorded in your meter if you point it away from the dome!

 

Timber Borcherding timberborcherding

[raymond bradlau]

Timber>"You may need to shield the dome alittle to compensate for the peculiar

effect of microshadows and "light skip" or sheen of of the subject. In otherwords,

the dome is very, very wide angle, accepting light from more than 180 degrees. It

may be effected to underexpose due to accepting light from a bright side light or an

overhead light. You will be shielding the dome alittle using your hand, and doing

this with alittle creative experience. Therefore, you need to be there in body and

soul. "

 

If you sheild the meter to get the exposure wouldnt the shot be affected from the

"extra light" you did not take into account?

 

BTW the 358 will give you total exposure and split it into a percent of flash and

ambient (very nice when using fill in a bright room or in daylight)

[chan_tran]

Hi Jeramiah,

 

I got this information from another site, but here is one of the way to make use of your flash meter.

 

 

" Quick Metering Tips - FOR PROPER EXPOSURE CONTROL

by WILL CROCKETT

 

 

NOTE: THIS SHOOTSMARTER DOCUMENT IS OFFICIALLY ENDORSED BY BOTH GOSSEN AND SEKONIC AS BEING CORRECT AND SOON WILL BE WIDELY DISTRIBUTED TO THEIR CUSTOMERS.

THANKS TO SEKONIC AND GOSSEN FOR THEIR SUPPORT WITH THIS PROJECT!

 

 

Exposure control is key for getting good looking prints from both film based and digital based media, and nothing will get you a faster, easier, or more accurate exposure than using an exposure meter.

We cannot recommend strongly enough that photographers moving into the digital world really need to make friends with their meters. For a comparison chart complete with ratings of the meters we have tested and recommend, be sure to visit: http://www.shootsmarter.com/fmcompare.html

Please realize that many years of research, testing and engineering have gone into the design and production of your meter to provide you with the finest exposure measuring instrument available. Forget about those gimmicky gray/white/black cards, or the "I'll fix it in Photoshop" mentality as they will both slow down your workflow. When used properly, your meter will provide you with many years of accurate exposure measurement no matter which digital capture system or film type you choose.

 

 

Here are a few quick tips to get your meter into your daily photographic workflow:

 

 

Tip ONE: Dome+Chin+Lens=Success!

 

 

Once you start by setting your meters ISO setting to match the ISO of your digital camera or film stock, your meter is designed to create proper skin tone exposures using incident metering following these 3 guidelines:

 

 

USE THE DOME in the extended or "up" position if you have a meter with a retractable dome. This allows the light to fall across the surface of the dome in the same relative manner as the light will fall across the subjects face or head.

 

 

PLACE THE DOME INTO THE SCENE where you want your most accurate exposure. Your meter can only measure the exposure of the light that strikes the dome (aka lumisphere), so place the dome of the meter into your scene at the exact point where you need to measure for proper exposure value. For portrait work, we suggest placing the dome directly under the subjects chin for proper exposure evaluation.

 

 

AIM THE DOME INTO THE CAMERA LENS, not the light source for measuring main lights, fill lights and ambient light falling onto the face. Be sure to aim the dome into the lens as accurately as possible as varying the angle that the dome is pointed into the lens can easily result in exposure measurements that are "off" by up to 1/3 stop.

I know this whole meter into the lens vs. meter into the light issue is a sensitive area for some shooters, but the time has come to use you meter the way it is designed by pointing the dome into the lens for proper skin tone reproduction. Ask the manufacturers (Sekonic, Gossen and Minolta) and they will say the same.

 

 

 

Tip TWO: Lighting Ratios.

 

 

 

Measuring your lighting ratios (the exposure differential between your main light and fill light) can be easily done by following these 3 guidelines:

 

 

RETRACT THE DOME into it's "down" or recessed position. This will help to shade the dome to it will measure in a more directional manner.

PLACE THE DOME INTO THE SCENE where you intend to record the most accurate exposure. If you are measuring your lighting ratio after you have measured for proper exposure (as outlined in Tip ONE), place the retracted dome in the same location to measure for exposure and for lighting ratio.

AIM THE DOME INTO EACH LIGHT SOURCE to measure it's individual value. This will measure each light sources' contribution to the overall combined exposure.

 

 

 

Tip THREE: Spot Metering.

 

 

 

Reflective or "spot" metering measures the light volume that is reflected off of a surface and is used to accurately measure reflected illumination values over great distances as in landscape or industrial photography applications. Light-toned surfaces will reflect more light than dark-toned surfaces making reflected metering impractical for skin tone exposure measurements. However, if a subject were to hold a 18% gray card (with no specular reflection from the light sources on the card) then your spot meter can accurately measure the light reflected off of the gray card to determine exposure. In theory, the light falling onto the dome (incident exposure) and the light reflected off of an 18% gray card placed in the same part of the scene (reflective exposure) will result in the same exposure reading.

So unless your subjects skin tone is 18% gray, with no specular highlight, then spot metering off of skin is really a bad idea.

 

 

Tip FOUR: Exposure is a System.

 

 

 

Exposure is a system made up of various components (camera, media speed, lenses, filters, etc) that can be accurately monitored by your meter. You can expect your meter to provide you with the data you need to set your camera for excellent digital capture and film exposures alike. But you can only use the meter to measure the light volume at the subject, not the light volume that actually reaches the digital chip or film plane. Many variables exist between your properly measured subject light volume and your cameras light recording plane like filters, lens or bellows draw, and imprecise film or chip speeds. Most compact design zoom lenses for instance cannot hold their selected aperture settings throughout the range of their focal length "zoom" and can shift by as much as 2/3 stop from any two points in their zoom range! To compensate for these variables between your meter readings and the final photograph, you may find the need to make adjustments in calibration to your system for smooth workflow.

For example, you may find that your camera / lens combination consistently yields images that are 2/10ths of a stop under exposed. So in this case, you need only to subtract 2/10th of a stop from your exposure system by simply dialing -0.2 into your meters exposure compensation or exposure calibration features. Refer to your specific meter's instruction manual for more details on these features as some need a negative number, some a positive number to subtract from the meter reading.

 

 

Tip FIVE:Analyzing Your Exposures.

 

 

 

 

Monitoring your exposures by evaluating your digital files, prints or processed film is important to maintaining consistent image quality for the portrait photographer. You will find that once you use your meter properly by extending the dome into the "up" position, placing it under the subjects chin and pointing into the lens, you will be able to make consistantly excellent skin tone exposures with ease and confidence.

On digital files, you can analyze your exposures using our revolutionary "Facemask Histogram" technique that is being adopted by photographers and professional labs alike.

As we enter into the digital chapters of the history of professional photography, we realize that exposure control is now more important than ever before, so the tighter we monitor our exposures in our daily workflow - the better. The fastest, easiest, most accurate way to measure exposure values is with a meter. "

 

 

I hope this helps.

 

- Chan

 

 

 

[timberwolf1]

Chan, thank you for this output from the manufacturers. I think their recommendation to

meter under the chin is perfect. Whereas I shield the dome with my hand to make the

same effect as a "roof", the chin would do the same job as my hand! I am happy to learn

that the manufacturer agrees with me.

 

incidentmeterreading incidentmeterreadings

[richard_hetzler]

<p>Thanks for this thread. For me this was all timely information well expressed. Thanks again!</p>