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Settings for Shooting Soccer


greg_koni

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Using a 10D with 70-200 2.8L and a 1.4 TC with a monopod. Depending

on the situation I shoot in TV at 1000+ or AV at 4.0 and A1 Servo

focus. What would be best for keeping the action in focus...focal

point set a center or auto? I have mostly used the preset center

point but find that some of my pictures are out of focus. What are

all of you sports shooters using? Still fairly new and still trying

to find the ideal setup.

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I use a D60 with 100-400 IS and 70-200 IS for Soccer and baseball.

 

AI focus is useless on the D60 - it typically focuses on anything BUT what you're aiming at. I use one shot focus strictly with the the center focusing point. It's a personal preference, but that works better for me.

 

I shoot on aperture priority, usually wide open, to control depth of field. While shooting I frequently check the shutter speed selected by the camera and adjust ISO to get the shutter speed I want. I change aperture only as a last resort.

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Thanks Bert, I have tried A1 Focus and also found it to focus on everything but my intended subject. In AV with Servo focus and center focus selected, does the predictive focus track the subject from the center to the next focus point? Do you find that single shot focus will keep up the the action pace of soccer?
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Basically Av or M, trying to keep shutter speeds between 1000 and 2000, center AF sensor, AI Servo, is my basic set up for soccer. I get reasonably acceptable results with a 70-200 F4L and a D60. Given the random nature of the action, it is no surprise that not all your photos are in focus. Shooting more frames will improve your odds and practice will improve your technique. Using continuous shooting setting and standing on the shutter, as the play developes, and firing off a 5-10 frame burst will also increase the the odds of getting a good, in focus image.
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I find this all rather comical since this is exactly how I do it with a manual focus Canon FD system. I will get a dozen excellent photos, a dozen good photos, and a dozen crap photos out of a roll of 36. I do not have the convenience of digital and I pay for processing but I can afford to use a used 400mm f2.8 L which in itself will increase the number of keepers. I would never be able to justify these lenses in the EF system. Perhaps when they come out with an affordable full frame digital they will also have a decent autofocus system figured out. Until then we can all continue blasting away to get the shots we want. Have fun!
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Greg, </p> My 2 cents' worth: I shoot soccer with a 70-200 2.8L and a 1.4x TC (though I'm using an EOS 3). I've tried numerous focusing approaches, and it seems that single center point works best, though I still have some shots out of focus (which I've come to believe is part of the price of doing this). I don't think servo focus moves to the next focal point. Rather, you have to keep moving your camera to keep the center point on your subject. </p>As far as shutter speed goes, I don't agree that 1000 or 2000 is standard. Quite often in soccer, the action is not very fast(making a move with the ball, heading, taking a shot, corner kick, goal kick, etc.). Yes, there's movement, but it's not often you'll be trying to capture a person running across your frame at full speed, and you're probably not trying to stop the action of the ball when it's moving at its fastest. I thus suggest 1/500 as a way of compromising toward the end of better depth of field (and a few more shots acceptably "in-focus"). And I find that the little bit of movement-related blur I occasionally get adds interest to the shots. To each his or her own, of course, but I thought I'd make the point.
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I am pretty new to sports photography but here is my advice.

- Center Point Focus (too many players that can throw off your multi point AF)

 

- Use custom function #4 and set it to Opt.#1. This will move the focus selection away from the shutter button to the back of the camera (specifically to the exposure lock). It takes some getting used to, but allows you more control over focus.

 

- Whatever lens combination you use, you need at least 400 @ 5.6. I have been using the 100-400 and find that I need to use all the focal range when covering a match. My eventual choice will be a 70-200 2.8 IS and 2x converter. That way I have the reach for field games like soccor, but still have the option of 2.8 for indoor sports.

 

- I always use Av and let the camera choose the shutter speed. If I am getting to slow shutter speeds I either move the ISO up (a non issue up to 400 on a 10D), or figure I need a faster lens.

 

- Here are some other suggestions for soccor. Due to the nature of the game and size of the field you can not be right with the action all the time. You need to look for less obvious ways to get shots. What I like to do is try to take pictures of all the players durring team warmups. If framed right it's hard to tell they were not in the game. Also when the action is too far to get a good photo take pictures of players on the field that are watching the action. They tend the get tence and energized when things happen, even if they are not in the action. On film this will often look like they are actually in the action. Also look for photo opps facing both the offence and defence.

 

- Last but not least, this all varries depending on who your client is. My advice is based on a general assignment to shoot everything in a game. Specific requests should be treated based on the request (usually this involves focusing on certain players, or looking for a key front page shot).

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Jamie,</p>If you're willing, could you explain just HOW the CF-4 setting you've mentioned provides you with more control over focusing? I understand what this setting accomplishes in terms of how the buttons work on the camera, but in practice, what is the advantage? More control sounds good to me, so this could be very useful.</p>Thanks in advance for any additional information you might provide. -Russ
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I shoot soccer with a 10D, 70-200 2.8 and 1.4 TC also. I use monopod to not old

stready the shot, but also to ease the strain on my back and shoulders. I shoot with

center focusing adn AI Servo. The critical thing, I think, is setting the camera to back

button focusing. When I switched from shutter focus to back button focus, the

percentage of keepers went way up. I meter the grass before I start shooting and

shoot wide open at 100 iso. If it's bright and sunny I usually get around 1500 shutter.

If it's partly cloudy, I take a new meter reading every few minutes. If my shutter drops

below 1/800, I bump up the iso. I can't imagine why anyone would want to shoot

anything but wide open. Even at F/4, I feel like I have too much dof in some cases. At

200mm with a 1.4 TC at midfield you can get great coverage of the field. True, you

can't get full frame accros the field, but you can crop it down and still have enough

resolution to print 8x10s with no problem. I start out a midfield to get some general

shots then figure out which team is better then move my way down towards the goal

they are shooting on. Oh, and knee pads. Don't forget teh knee pads. I've found my

shots level with the players chests are much better than those that are looking down

on them.

 

-- Andy

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The custom 4 setting simply separates focus and exposure - focus using thumb on rear button - shoot with normal shutter release button. It's fairly easy to focus and recompose with the action - but nothing mechanical is ever perfect. I find it helps to be able to focus and then take an exposure setting off grass or sky - separately. FWIW 1/500th sec seems adequate as a rule of thumb. I'm all thumbs today - I am an' all.
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Andy,

Sounds like we shoot alike. I sometimes set up about 15-20 feet off one of the corners. This allows great coverage to midfield with the U13's-U17's. I guess I will stay with the center focus on Servo in AV wide open. Thanks for the tips on metering in different conditions.

 

Greg

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