Looking for tips on bird photography

[slide]

I got kind of enraptored during the current raptor migration and

decided to try to photograph some of these birds. Until now I've

done mainly landscape photography, so this is a new world to me. It

took 3 tries, but this weekend I finally got some good shots and I'm

getting kind of hooked. Ultimately I'm looking for a couple good

books on bird photography, but I'm planning on going out again this

weekend and looking for a couple of quick tips on what other people

do. My main interest right now is currently raptors (and owls

although I can't remember the last time I saw one) but could grow to

include all types of birds.

 

So, my guesses at technique for getting better bird photos with my

eos-5:

 

1) Get longer glass (check, lens arriving tomorrow)

 

2) Shoot wide open. So far no problems.

 

3) Film. Need a faster slide film than my usual Velvia 50. Tried

Kodak E200 pushed 1 stop. No good. Tried Velvia 100F pushed 1

stop. Much better. Personal preference I know, but I'm still

interested - what's your favorite film for bird photography? Do you

usually push a stop?

 

4) Use evalutive metering. Yikes, used to spot metering. I know

basically how evaluative metering works, but I have no idea when to

compensate. Any tips?

 

5) Use aperture priority. Uh-oh. I'm used to manual. Problem here

is I notice that if I change the composition to give the bird room to

fly into the frame, I can lose a top of light. I've got a lock

exposure button, but again, without knowing about evaluative metering

I'm not sure if it's doing the right thing. Kind of a basic question

I guess, but maybe there is some secret answer.

 

6) Use autofocus, AI servo. More new ground. For birds in flight, it

seems that using the AI servo mode is a good idea. This works ok as

long as the bird is in the center of the frame, but the focus doesn't

lock when the shutter is depressed halfway so a last second change of

composition and focus is off.

 

7) Handheld photography. Ay-yi-yi. Until last 2 weeks I hadn't

taken a shot that wasn't on a tripod. I'm looking forward to being

liberated and having more freedom of movement. I know a lot of

people will suggest using a tripod, and I always do when I'm in a

position to do so, but I'm primarily interested in going out hiking

and finding what's out there rather than setting up in one spot, and

I've had several excellent wildlife encounters this year where by the

time I got to my tripod, much less set it up, well, not much wildlife

in the old portfolio.

 

8) Image Stabilization. New lens has it, never used it before. Any

hints for using it for shooting birds?

 

9) Flash. Won't have one by this weekend, but I am making my

cchristmas list this week, and if it's useful for bird photography...

 

10) Hmm maybe I'm pushing my luck. I'll save number 10 so I have

something to strive for.

 

All right, that's a ton of questions. Most of them kind of basic but

the nature forum has been kind of slow lately. Any and all tips

greatly appreciated!

 

Thanks!

slide<div></div>

[brian_kennedy]

Books on bird photography don't get any better than Arthur Morris's "The Art of Bird Photography." You should also check out his website at birdsasart.com for more tips (and you can order the book there). Most or all of your questions will either be answered in the book or on the website.

 

Artie used to use Velvia pushed a stop at EI 100 for his "regular" film. He shoots digital now. I use Provia 100F at 100. Film is a personal thing -- perhaps you like Velvia 100F better. I've only tried it in 4x5 sheets, and didn't like it, so I'm sticking with what I'm used to (RDP).

[andrew robertson]

I'll address those points which I can.

 

4. I get mixed results with evaluative metering. At least with spot I know that I

messed up and haven't been the victim of some unfathomable secret algorithm.

 

6. Custom function 4 is what you need. Moving the AF off the shutter button is one

of the

greatest things you can do to get more, better shots. Otherwise, it's focus,

recompose, shoot, focus, recompose, shoot FOR EVERY FRAME! The other option of

'locking' focus by turning AF off on the lens barrel is pretty kludgy, and when you

really DO need the AF it's invariably still turned off, and by the time you figure this out

the opportunity is gone.

 

7. With a moderately sized lens (5 pounds or less) you can get shots that static 'set-

up in the one spot where the tripod happens to be' photographers simply can't. Start

lifting weights a bit and the lenses even feel pretty light after a while. Going with the

1/focal length rule and taking a burst of shots (see the photo.net article 'Poor Man's

IS') usually guarantees sharp images.

 

8. Image stabilization is perhaps the most important lens technology in the last 20

years (along with ultrasonic motors, of course). It's easy to use - you don't have to

'do' anything but throw away all your conceptions that handheld images can't be

sharp, as it turns itself on when you take a metering (if it's on). Be sure to set it to the

correct mode for panning if that's how you are shooting.

 

9. Forget the flash. Period. In fact, this is the first suggestion I give to anyone who

wants their photos to look natural or pleasant. With birds, they'd be too far away

anyway. Plus, it's kind of rude (imho) because animals all dislike the flash to varying

degrees. If you want the flash photo look, just wash everything out when you make

prints. Yes, I hate the flash. The only use I have for one is perhaps in a macro rig.

[gloria_hopkins]

I'll second the recommendation of purchasing "The Art of Bird Photography." It's a classic and a must have for any beginning bird photographer IMO.

 

The two biggest tips that I can give you are:

 

1) Aside from your own personal safety, make the welfare of your subject your priority above everything else. That is so much more important than any image you can bring out of the field.

 

2) Study and understand your subjects, their patterns, rituals and behaviours, so that you can anticipate and be ready for the action.

 

Best of luck to you!

[gloria_hopkins]

By the way, nice red-tailed shot. Beautiful composition - I'd say you're off to an awesome start. Please forgive the typo in my last post. It's driving me crazy that I can't fix it.

<P>

<I>Your typo is fixed. Hope I got everything. -- SC</I>

[andrew robertson]

Also, I have come to trust the combination of AI servo and having the computer

choose the focusing point (all points illuminated). Last summer is when this dawned

on me after messing up more than half of my bird photos due to my inability to pan

across a scene and keep the bird perfectly over the chosen point. It pains me to some

degree to trust the camera this much, but it really seems to put out for me.<div></div>

[gloria_hopkins]

Thanks Shun!

[doug herr]

1) get to know the birds. Often some knowledge can substitute for a longer lens.

<P>

2) Yup.

<P>

3) in contrasty situations I prefer Provia or E100G, otherwise I use K64

<P>

4) I use the camera's spot metering. If you really have to use evaluative, Art Morris sells a pocket guide to out-thinking the evaluative meter.

<P>

5) I use manual exposure. My camera has a continuously-variable shutter so I leave the lens at maximum aperture and set exposure with the shutter speed.

<P>

6) I've never used AF for birds.

<P>

7) I use a shoulder stock. With a 400mm lens I can use this setup at speeds as slow as 1/60 sec if I'm careful, or at 1/125 sec with a 560mm lens

<P>

8) I've never used it.

<P>

9) I hate the look of fill flash.

<P>

Here's a sample of what can be done without AF, evaluative metering or IS:

<CENTER>

<IMG SRC="http://www.wildlightphoto.com/birds/ssha0.jpg">

</CENTER>

[greg s]

9) Flash. Won't have one by this weekend, but I am making my christmas list this week, and if it's useful for bird photography...

 

Obviously, the use of fill flash has its fans and otherwise. There are a variety of cases where it really comes in handy and some where its flash or no photo at all. The intent is to use it so sparingly as to have it not be obvious (results may vary). But there will be times when you are out hiking when a bird lands on a branch in the not so well lit forest, and its flash or nothin'. A 'better beamer' is also a common accessory item... can be found on Art Morris's site. Worth the $$$ for those who bring a flash along. :) Enjoy!

[stnoonan]

Here's a third motion for Artie's <a href="http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0817433031/ref=nosim/seantnoonanphoto">The Art of Bird Photography</a>. Better yet, take a workshop. I have a review of his <a href="http://stnphotography.com/ipt.html">NYC IPT here.</a>

 

<p>I totally support the use of flash, btw. Get the better beamer and practice with it to make effective use of it, though. Look at what the pros are doing with flash with all types of animals and you'll see how it can be used with great results. I suspect that those who profess to dislike flash either doesn't fully understand it's creative use, don't use it properly, or don't realize that very many of their favorite avian shots (and others) use flash. There is nothing like a cold black bird's eye in a photo to make it look dead, IMHO.

 

<p>Sean

<br><a href="http://www.stnphotography.com">www.stnphotography.com</a>

[heatherforcier]

<p>I got hooked on bird photography in much the same way, I started out with landscapes and later became quite fascinated with avian subjects! I don't regret a minute of it, birds are a lot of fun.</p>

 

<p>I shoot digital and almost always shoot with my exposure set manually. I determine my exposure with test shots relying on the camera's meter (compensating -.7 to -1 stop for white birds in good light), checking the histogram, then making any necessary adjustments. This way I know even if the bird moves into another area but has similar light on it I'm still getting a good exposure for my subject.</p>

 

<p>I second the motion for checking out the "Better Beamer" flash extender. It will help reach birds that might be a bit further away and actually helps your flash use less power overall, which means you can sometime take a burst of shots and still have the flash work each time. You may find flash especially useful in bird photography as fill flash can help brighten things up a little in lower light, and creative use of flash can sometimes help counteract harsher shadows towards mid-day and help you make the most of your time in the field.</p>

 

<p>I mostly shoot on a tripod, ground plate, or beanbag, but handheld sometimes, especially for flight. I use the Canon system and have IS lenses. If I have pretty good light and am trying to do flight shots I will usually turn the IS off on my 300 f/4. The theory in my mind, anyway, is that it's one less function that will be competing for power with AF and I'm more likely to be able to track the bird. I don't know if I'm right or not but I seem to be getting flight shots.</p>

 

<p>Feel free to check out my <a href=http://www.hforcier.com/birds/birds.htm>bird images gallery</a>, and click on any of the thumbnails for a larger view.</p>

 

<p>Hope this helps!</p>

[andrew robertson]

Regardless of who supports the flash, it still annoys animals.

 

Use it if you must, but it surely isn't necessary. Catchlights in the eyes are considered

desirable, but with careful exposure they'll be there w/o the flash.

[doug herr]

Andrew Robertson wrote, re: flash:<I> ... it surely isn't necessary.

Catchlights in the eyes are considered desirable, but with careful

exposure they'll be there w/o the flash.</I><P>

 

To this I'll add that there are other ways of bringing the viewer's

attention to the bird's eyes, which is the whole point behind the

catchlight anyway: color, lighting, and selective focus come

immediately to mind. I'm sure the more imaginitive among us

can think of other techniques.

[slide]

Thanks to everyone for many excellent responses. I checked out Art Morris's website. I'd seen his lens reviews before but had never searched through the bulletins. Tons of great info there, and he does indeed address alot of the stuff I had questions about. Sounds like his book is the one I'm looking for. Looking forward to trying out some of your tips with the new lens this weekend.

 

Thanks again!

slide

[nevilleb]

Regarding films:

 

Have you tried Provia 400? Pretty good film, I must say! I pushed it a stop and results were still excellent!

[juancalop]

You should come down to Venezuela's Llanos (plains). It's plenty with wildlife (animals and birds) and some ecotourism lodges in private reserves. There birds come very close and are quite easy to shoot (Hoatzins, boat-billed heron, jabiru storks among others). There is also a biol. station amid a cloud forest that has a feeder good for hummingbirds and tangaras. There is eve a location where you stay as close as 2 meters from displaying Andean Coock of the rock (Rupicolla peruviana). Shall you need help, e-mail me to juancalop@cantv.net.

Suerte.

JCL

[gloria_hopkins]

From Doug Herr: To this I'll add that there are other ways of bringing the viewer's attention to the bird's eyes, which is the whole point behind the catchlight anyway: ....."

 

 

Well, it's one of the reasons for a catchlight, but not the "whole point." Catchlights are also added to give life to an otherwise dull or dead-looking eye - which can be the case in full direct sun, depending on how the head is turned.

[a long time ago]

GET TO KNOW THE BIRDS..is right on...i have spent 100's of hours watching bald eagles..they pirch in trees by a dam near my home, then make flights to the water to fish..I can sit in my truck and take all the pics i want.I can drive the truck up to were there droppings fall on the hood....but then a tour bus will pull up the people all bail out to take pictures and the birds all fly away. Hawks are even more skiddish around here for some reason, maybe kids with rocks?...get out early, most of my birds come in just after dawn ...i think the fishing is better due to less glare on water....and if your working birds on a river the colder the better, one time here it was about 5 degrees F all week, by the week end nearly all the water was frozen except right under the dam, this sounds like bull but there was a least 200 eagles in the sky that day...I evan saw the "dance of death" 2 birds high in the sky clutching each other then spiraling down like a top in what i learned later is there mating posture....wish i had some good shots to post to back this all up,.. but alas...i suck at the picture part due to equipment and ,,well,,,,i suck....but this is the year the A2 and 300L have arrived and there is no stopping me now....great luck with YOUR raptors

[jason_elsworth3]

Hi,

 

I recently posted this on my site.

 

http://www.jasonelsworth.co.nz/how%20to%20bird.htm

 

Hope it helps.

 

Jason