k1000 meter battery question

[bruce_appel]

My K 1000 started given me meter readings that were off a couple

years back. I assumed it was from using non- mercury batteries, used

my handheld meter, and went about my bussiness.

I would like to have the meter working correctly. As I understand,

not all camera circuits are affected by using the non mercury

batteries.Is this true, and if so what about the K1000?

If the problem is not a battery issue, should it be repairable?

[stephen hazelton]

I wasn't aware that the K1000 ever used mercury batteries. Anyway, I use the little button cells, #76 or something of the sort, available at Walmart and other fine stores. My K1000 is right on using them, but my Chinon CM-7 is about a stop and a half off.

 

I've noticed when the batteries are getting weak in the K1000, the meter isn't off, but starts losing sensitivity. I don't think the battery is your problem, just a camera problem. It may be repairable, but probably not worth the repair. Sounds like you have a workable solution to the problem, though.

 

I remember being in a camera store several years back, and they would calibrate people's meters. I mean, they would check the meter, and let you know exactly how far off it was- then you could just adjust on the film speed dial. If your meter is consistently off the same amount, that would work.

[richard_oleson]

Stephen is right: Pentax is one of those cameras that are not effected by battery voltage, and the K1000 uses a silver cell normally (but alkalines can be used as well). It should certainly be repairable; if you plan to keep the camera for some time it would be worthwhile to have it repaired. In the meantime, you might try resetting your ASA dial until the camera matches your handheld reading.... check this in both bright and low light to make sure the error is consistent, though; otherwise the correction will be unreliable.

 

rick :)=

[mskovacs]

Well you can and should calibrate the meters on all of your cameras (sunny f/16 works fine, a test sequence on slide film will get you within 1/3 stop). Replace the batteries as a matter of course before doing any tests. Both of my Nikons overexpose by 2/3 stop which I adjust using the film speed.

[bruce_appel]

Thanks all. That was the info I was looking for. I found the reciept where I bought the camera new in 1979 for $124. It has shot uncounted frames since then, never having had any cla or anything in that time. So, even if it costs a few bucks to fix now, I have definitly gotten my monies worth.

[douglas_greenberg]

I agree about calibrating one's meter by checking it against an accurate second source, but just using "sunny 16" isn't the best way, I think. Actually, the light readings you get in bright sun vary, depending on the time of day and season. Winter "sunny" readings are not the same as June readings. It's meant to be an approximation only. So it's probably better to use a light meter that you know is accurate, or else just to look closely at your finished negs or slides and see whether or not they are giving you the results you anticpate. If not, then adjust accordingly.

[bruce_rubenstein]

The K1000 uses a 1.5v button "76" battery (silver or alkaline chemistry). It does not use one of the lower voltage mercury batteries

[sauerwine]

Bruce A., Bruce R. and all,

 

I am almost certain that there was a battery available with the same dimensions of the Silver or Alkaline that WAS, indeed, mercury. Perhaps someone sold you the wrong battery at one point, and you replaced the "identical" a couple of times to the point that you thought mercury was the norm. I recall that these batteries were 1.35v as opposed to the [V]76[PX] style of 1.5v. (Ok, I might have the actual voltages off, but there was that kind of difference between the two.) I could be wrong, but I remember three distinct different chemistries available for the same size button battery. I stick with the Silver myself...they seem to outgas a little less, and have a better power curve in general, than alkaline. I think the battery was a 675...the mercury one. (Incidentally, the replacement for Mercury is now zinc-air, in case anyone wants to know this.)

 

The camera is repairable, but at the cost of what they were when last offered as new...or close. Investigate the warranty on repair work, too, as they're normally only 90 days, where a newer compatible body will be at least a year. I'd certainly want more than 90 days for a repair like the metering system. (Usually an entire flexible circuit is replaced.)

 

In any case, you've got countless choices out there for replacement bodies, especially in the used market...but you know this already! Good luck & good shooting!

[imaginator]

My K1000 is off a bit, partly from dirty mirror and partly from aging cell, and ironically, since it's off about 1 stop, I don't have to compensate when taking readings off the palm of my hand. I would test it under various conditions, using another meter to compare, and if it's off about the same all the time, just adjust the film speed setting as suggested. Also, be aware if you are using a zoom lens, some are "variable aperture" so when zoomed towards the long end, they are no longer at the aperture written on the dial... this can mislead you when comparing to another camera or handheld meter. Since the K1000 meter readout is analog needle, it's easy to see the needle move as you zoom.

[ron c sunshine coast,qld,a]

The K1000 takes a silver oxide (A76 or SR44) or alkaline(LR44).Around here the camera repair shops quote about US$100 for a complete service with a one year guarantee.