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Best lens for architecture : give me 3 candidates.


edwardchen

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I have D100 and 18-35/3.5-4.5 does horrible job for architecture. I

can't stand the distortion. According to your opinion or experience,

give me a list of lenses which do best for achitecture type of

shooting. It must be wide angle up to 28mm (42mm on D100). I prefer

zoom but if primes were better I would settle for those. Disregard

the price. Thank you for your input. Have a nice day.

 

Edward

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28mm f3.5PC. 35mm f2.8PC.

<p>

The PC lenses are ideal for architecture; they were designed

for this, they have practically zero distortion, and they also

allow you to correct converging parallel lines by shifting the lens.

I'm not sure how well the D100 takes to a shifted lens (I'm

pretty sure it won't meter with one), but these

lenses work wonders on film.

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The 20mm AF-D that I had was a great lens. I sold it when I bought the 20-35, but that prime is better than the zoom (and this is one of their pro zooms). I usually find that wider is what I need with architecture shots, but the 20 isn't very wide on a D100 - or the Fuji S2 that I have. Of course, the wider you shoot the more you have to pay attention to leveling the camera. A hot-shoe bubble level is a necessity.
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The key to eliminating the keystone effect is to keep your camera level. Any decent lens can be used for architecture if you keep it level. If you shoot from the street, that means you have to give up the lower portion of the film, which essentially cuts your resolution in half. Otherwise, the expensive PC lenses are the only way to go with 35mm format. For the price of those lenses you may be able to get a decent low-end large format box which has the tilt and shift ability. Then use a Epson 2450/3200 to digitize the large film. Just a thought, but it depends on the quality you are looking for.
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If you have an F series model take the viewfinder off, turn it upside down, hold it over your head, and shoot. It isn't easy but it works. Of course a grid screen helps.

 

My favorite? A good old 20mm f4 AI'd. For a narrower shot, the 28mm f2.8 has the least distortion.

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The old 25-50mm f4.0 zoom lens has low distortion for a zoom, but some samples tend to flare badly with any sort of backlighting. And, you would have to see if it could be "chipped" to work with a D100.

I think Bjørn Rørslett at http://www.naturfotograf.com/index2.html would be the best authority on whether this old lens would be woth considering.

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PC lens? I heard this term but I can't find its specs at Nikonusa.com. Richard Cochran mentioned about 28/3.5PC and 35/2.8 but 28 is maximum focal length I want. It is just not wide enough.

 

"The key to eliminating the keystone effect is to keep your camera level" JIM. S.

I don't understand this but aren't we supposed to level the camera on tripod all the time? When is it we don't keep the camera level?

 

I am always interested in cheaper PC lens product but $1,000 cheaper?? It seems there is a lot of compromise.

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If you're not talking about a perspective correction lens, the 24mm 2.8D has no linear distortion and is very sharp. But, any lens can be used for architecture, except the zooms, which tend to produce linear distortion. Keystoning is a different issue. I like to use my 85mm lens for architecture if I can position myself far enough from the building.
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<cite> "The key to eliminating the keystone effect is to keep your camera level" JIM. S. I don't understand this but aren't we supposed to level the camera on tripod all the time? When is it we don't keep the camera level? </cite>

<p>

He's not talking about side-to-side level, but front-to-back level.

The average building is taller than the average photographer.

This leads many photographers to point the camera upward when taking

pictures of buildings, producing converging verticals. If you

want parallel lines on the front of the building to remain

parallel, you've got to keep the film plane (or CCD plane),

parallel to the front of the building. Phil explains it in <a href="/architectural/exterior">the photo.net learn section on

architecture</a>. Scroll down to the "perspective correction"

section.

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<i>I am always interested in cheaper PC lens product but $1,000 cheaper?? It

seems there is a lot of compromise.</i>

<P>

Edward- You pay a lot for the Zeiss name.

<P>

The PC Distagon is $2,500<BR>

The PC Angulon in 35mm is $1,600<BR>

The Nikon 28mm Shift is $1,000

<P>

Pretty sure these are all fine lenses. All three have good reputations. I know

the Zeiss has shift and Rise/fall... But that isn't an option for you without more

expense in an adaptor. The Schneider I think does too, this one you can get

for your Nikon, but i do not know hardly anything about it's performance or

subjective charicteristics.

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As there are (at least) two kinds of "distortion" that can spoil architectural photographs, you'll get better advice if you explain what effect you want to eliminate. Distortion can be caused by the qualities of the lens or by the use of the lens.

 

As far as I can judge my 20mm/2.8 has very little distortion, less barrel/pincushion than my 50 and 85.

 

But even with the most perfectly rectilinear lens, if you want the lines in a wall to be "undistorted" as in not converging horizontally or vertically, it's necessary to keep the film plane parallel to the wall. As already described, in some cases this means cropping half the frame or using a PC lens, the latter being mostly for rich people and specialists.

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"If they were the best choice for architecture then I couldn't afford any one of those."

 

We're getting a little far afield. The best choice for architecture is not 35 mm at all.

Medium format is much better at it, and large format, with real perspective control,

rocks. BUT, if you want to shoot architecture with 35mm, then you need a PC lens, or

you

need to learn to keep the lens parallel with the subject.

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Edward- I think the depreciation on these things is pretty steep. There is a PC

Distagon in Contax available in 8 condition at BH for $500. Maybe you could

find an inexpensive used PC too?

 

I agree tho, get a view camera and a medium format back. If i still had mine I'd

sell it to you.

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