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Rolleiflex 3,5F Screen Hacking


patrick_umlauf2

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My beat up Rolleiflex' (bought on eBay, functions flawlessly after a

CLA) matte screen is almost blind due to cleaning scratches. Because

of the not favourable Euro/Dollar exchange rate and shipping costs

purchasing a new screen from Beattie or Maxwell is not economical.

What are your experiences with using screens from an RB67, SLX, 6000

series or other(and cutting them to the right size)?

Thanks, Patrick (Frankfurt, Germany)

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Patrick

 

Andrew is wrong on the Kiev screen. The F series Rollei uses a

larger screen than the 6x6 Kiev, therefore you need a screen that

is larger than the Rollei screen. I have cut down screens using

an X-acto Razor Saw.

 

I may even have a Rollei F screen available, but payment could

only be in dollars, not Euros or Dmarks. Contact Jan Boettcher

in Hamburg <jab@bios.de> and he can help you.

 

Jerry

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Patrick, you could repolish your screen, if the scratches are mostly on its upper side. The technology is very simple: 1)take off the screen from the camera, 2)lay it on a clean cloth with the matte surface down, 3)treat the upper surface with a fine emery-paper (#0,00...) 4)then finish and glance it with a polishing paste.

Warning: do not treat the margin edges of the screen, which are pressed with springles to the screen' frame, this may transgress the working distance from the center of the mirror to the center of the screen.

 

Good luck,

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I've read several posts by people who have had SL66 or 66E screens

installed in their Fs -some with the complaint that the split image

focusing aid was now vertical. That last detail implies the screen has

to be rotated 180 degrees to fit, so a plain grid or microprism

version would be preferable -but it also suggests that maybe you don't

have to cut the screen..

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Gene,

 

I set Kiev-6' screen (2 aimed: matte & micro-pyramids) in my Hassy 500cm.(Kiev-6 2 ¼ X 2 ¼ looks like Pentax 67, not Hassy 1000F).

 

Please, note that the 3-aimed screen of the Kiev-88 (like 1000F), you refer, is defective in its design because of non-coincidence of the focus-plane aims (matte surface/split image/micro-pyramides). I found out this non-coincidence, seems, in 1980 when I tried to adjust the Hassy during equipping it with 3-aimed screen. I have gotten three different distances when focusing the same subject throug each of three aims. The Arsenal's people agreed with my conclusion, but have done nothing to change the design of the defective screen. So, if you intend to set the Kiev�s screen in the 500cm, take 2-aimed one, but it is hard to find.

 

The thickness of 2-aimed screen is seems 1.6 mm which differs from the thickness of the Hassy�s screens. This requires adjusting of the metal frame keeping the screen. The 2-aimed screen comes without a metal frame. Both Hassy�s and Kiev-88�s screen frames bear resemblance and consist of two parts: external and inner ones. They differ in their height and lock design. I used Kiev-88�s metal frame and modified its design like Hassy�s one. Its modifying concerns the external part of the frame only, the inner one stays without any changes. I inflected the two lower side of the external part's edges that play a role of a lock for the inner part and then I treated the lower corners of the external frame to match its height to the value required for correct focusing on infinity. It takes about 2-3 hours.

 

BTW, the Kiev�s screen is less in its dimensions than the Rolleiflex TLR�s one.

 

Good luck,

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I read with interest, as I see Hassy standard screens going quite cheap at KEH for $5-8 and was wondering if I can, or if there is any advantage, in fitting Hassy screens to a Kiev88? Are they brighter?

 

So... which of the 3 aims is correct when focusing on a Kiev88? This really intriques me.

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