tj_sullivan Posted August 18, 2003 Share Posted August 18, 2003 Thanks to the excellent advice I received from my last post, I purchased a Tachihara along with a Fuji 125 cmw. My first batch of film went off to the lab today and I can't wait to see the results. Now that I have had a little time to play with the camera I realize that I will need to add at least two more lenses to capture most of the images I am after. In the squarer 4x5 format the 125 feels pleasantly wider than I expected and will certainly work for a majority of my photographs but it is not quite wide enough for many forest interiors and atmospherics. I also plan on using this camera to shoot panoramas by cropping to a 2x5 format and need a lens that will capture sweeping vistas. In addition, I see the need for a longer lens to pull out details from a distance as well as focus in on intimate subjects closer at hand. Given the limitations of the Tachihara (330mm extension and no bag bellows) and the fact that I will be backpacking with my equipment, what might my best options be- especially considering a limited budget? The Schnieder 80 XL seems like it might be ideal as the wide lens but the price is presently out of reach. I have also been considering the Congo 90 (the size, weight and price are perfect, but stories of poor quality control have me worried)and the Rodenstock 75 6.8 (but I am not sure that will leave me any room for movements on the Tachihara). Because this lens will mostly be used for panoramas, I may be willing to sacrifice some edge sharpness and light falloff if I absolutely have to in order to save weight and money. But since I shoot color transparency film having good multi coated glass is important. On the long end I am looking at the Fuji A 240 and Nikon 300 M. The Fuji seems very highly regarded but may be a little short for pulling in the distant vistas. The Nikon may be too long to focus on close subjects given the limitations of my bellows and it also may be too much of a jump from my 125mm. Thanks for the advice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brian_ellis3 Posted August 18, 2003 Share Posted August 18, 2003 One of the nice things about the Tachihara is the fact that the bellows is quite flexible so you can use short lenses without the need for a bag bellows. I routinely used a 90mm F5.6 Super Angulon on my Tachihara with plenty of room for movements. I tested a 65mm on it and it worked fine though I don't remember the extent of the movements. If you want to try a 65 or 75mm but can't borrow or rent one you might try buying one with a right to return and see how it works for you. A 300mm normal lens is usable on the Tachihara but you won't be able to focus closer than about 10-12 feet. That didn't bother me, I used the 300 Nikon M for distances and seldom wanted to include anything within 10-12 feet of the camera. As long as you recognize that limitation the Nikon would be a good choice. I also used a 400mm Fuji T telephoto lens and it too worked very well on the camera but I think you'd definitely want something in between your 125mm and a 400mm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ellis_vener_photography Posted August 18, 2003 Share Posted August 18, 2003 I'd go with the 90mm f/8 SW-Nikkor. The image circle is as large (235mm) as that of the f/4.5 & 5.6 90mm lenses and it is relatively small and inexpensive. Kerry Thalmann gave it a glowing review in the July/August 2003 issue of "View Camera".<P>I'd go with a 210mm over the 240. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul_kent2 Posted August 18, 2003 Share Posted August 18, 2003 At the short end, I would recommend something like a used Schneider Super Angulon 90mm f8, or equivalent from one of the other manufacturers. These lenses are plentiful on the used market and take the same 67mm filters as your Fuji CMW 125mm. On a Tachihara, the 235mm+ coverage is well balanced by the bellows: you can do all of the movement available - using indirect rise it is just about possible to run out of coverage, but the bellows are pretty tight at this point. You can always sell the 90mm if you want to upgrade to the 80mm later on. At the long end, I use a Fuji A 240mm primarily because my next lens is a Fuji 400T. My experience with the 240mm has been excellent. It is a great bargain. The only down side is that it is ~impossible to point into the sun, a not uncommon problem with longer lenses. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sam_crater Posted August 18, 2003 Share Posted August 18, 2003 I would go with a Fuji 180A or Nikkor 200M plus the 300M. The first two are both extremely small and light and you'll have a nice progression. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul_kent2 Posted August 18, 2003 Share Posted August 18, 2003 Oops! 216mm coverage for a Schneider SA 90mm f8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tim_curry Posted August 18, 2003 Share Posted August 18, 2003 One thing to consider when dropping below a 90mm focal lenght is light fall-off at the corners of the image. If you drop down to 65mm or 75mm, you will need to get a good center filter. I think the 90mm is a good lens, and as already stated, they are readily available on the used market at decent prices. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul_owen Posted August 18, 2003 Share Posted August 18, 2003 Try the 90mm Nikon f8 - a truly outstanding lens and a 210mm (anything from the "Big 4"-Schneider, Rodenstock, Nikon or Fuji). Welcome to the hopelessly addictive world of LF!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john_kasaian1 Posted August 18, 2003 Share Posted August 18, 2003 Tj, RESIST! You're stepping aboard a rollercoaster with no brakes if you start buying lenses now. You've got what sounds like a nifty kit. Stick with one lens. Its a field camera so take it afield and hike closer, or back off for the big vista. Only buy another lens if theres a cliff or lake somewhere that won't let you move closer/farther away. To give into the urge this soon will only turn you into a glass abuser! You'll hang around in sleazy old camera shops rappin' glass. You'll sit goo-goo eyed for hours as old timers talk about the "good old days" and doin' pix with Heliars and RD Artars. Your money will evaporate. You'll get a Wollensak "wollcoat" tattoo. Your family will turn your picture to the wall. Your parents will spit on the floor every time your name is mentioned. ....and worst of all, you'll never, I repeat NEVER have the right lens when you need it. RESIST! At least for as long as you can. Been there, Done that-----BTW you know of any deals on 19"f7.7 focus Dagors? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tj_sullivan Posted August 18, 2003 Author Share Posted August 18, 2003 John, Fortunately for my photography there is almost always a lake or a cliff in the way at the places I am trying to photograph. I have already missed a couple shots due to lack of lens choices. But I am really happy with the 125mm and like the simplicity of limited choices as opposed to the almost infinite possibilities of my 35mm system. That is why I am looking to compromise with the most flexible 3 lens system possible so I wont be as tempted to have to drag my 35mm along whenever I take the LF system into the field. In fact I am so happy with the LF system that I am considering ditching some of my fancy 35mm equipment to finance the switch into LF. Are you interested in a Canon 16-35?;-) I used it to take the Red Maple Leaf shot on my website www.InTheMomentNaturePhotography.com and am looking for a wide angle large format lens that I could use to repeat that perspective, making the leaf stand out while pushing the rest of the forest and stream into the background. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nicholas_fiduccia Posted August 19, 2003 Share Posted August 19, 2003 Hi Tj, You have gotten some great advice. As good as the 90mm are, I would probably go for a 75-80mm as the 90 is a bit close to the 125mm you already have. Also, I would go with the Fuji 240A as it is a better fit for your camera. The 240mm lens will allow you to focus as close as 2-3ft according to my calculations. Enjoy and welcome! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wayne_crider4 Posted August 19, 2003 Share Posted August 19, 2003 On the short end just watch the image circle and widest aperture if you shoot in dark surroundings under canopy. You might need a brighter lens for composition. The 90mm Nikon will surely cover but is dark in low light at f8. Gradually you'll loose the edges. Under that i have seen 65's use on rainly days that I couldn't tell where the frame edge was. You talk about shooting 2x5. I just cut up a dark slide to do the same and have been checking out what it takes to move the image both top and bottom on my Graphic without too much distortion, but then I'm shooting in town alot. I can definetly see the usefullness of back rise and fall coupled with front r&f. I am noticing tho that my lens at 135 is just too long, but am questioning how wide to go before I move that background too far back. Reading this post I was hoping for some remark concerning that; Maybe someone who shoots approx 2x5 can remark on lens choice from the perspective of the near far relationship and loosing backround detail at common print sizes; That is if the foreground isn't the important image. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ed_candland1 Posted August 19, 2003 Share Posted August 19, 2003 TJ, I looked at your web site, very nice work. I think the Fuji 240 A is a great lens. I have one that I use along with a 135mm. There's really a big spread between the 2. So if I had the 125mm, I don't think I would go any longer. Plus it's a good match with your camera. On the short end I'd start with a 90mm 6.8 or 8. The Nikon 90/8 being your best bet. The 75/4.5s are pricey and you'd most likely want to add a center filter with this focal length which will add another 3oo-400+ dollars. The Rodenstock 75/6.8 is an option but you'd still want to think about a center filter and the movements are going to be more limited. Good luck, Ed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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