Which type of filter should I get?

[RaymondC]

Hi

 

I am wanting a filter to assist on the colours. U know .. sometimes

u take a pix of a landscape of green fields its light green

instead. Perhaps a light yellow green colour.

 

What type of filter will help me with this issue?

 

Thx in adv.

Raymond

[bastiaan_r.]

One vote for Skylight 1A or 1B...

[neil_lupin]

Raymond I've answered your other question. I'll reiterate my advice - don't go buying filters etc til you've mastered the basics. Get yourself a good beginner's book and learn about metering, exposure, depth of field etc and learn about what your camera can and can't do - its simple things like knowing what film to use and how to take meter readings that should solve your prob above, yes filters will help, but not if you dn't know how to maximise the camera's potential without them. There is a school of thought to which I ascribe which is to switch to manual, use slide film because it is intolerant of errors and will show you when you get things right or wrong, read a good book, practice and write the details of every shot down (aperture, shutter speed etc).

 

Once you can use your camera manually and understand what it takes to make a photograph work, and once you've grasped basic rules of composition, then you'll start flying.

 

I'm no expert, I've only had an SLR under 2 years, but this site along with good books and lots of patience have helped me progress to a stage where I am now selling the odd photo which two years ago I'd have thought impossible - I'd never even heard of depth of field!!!!

[RaymondC]

Bro has had this SLR for like 2.5yrs. He has bought no extras with it apart from batteries when needed. We have only used it with the starter lense that came with it.

 

Been reading books, web for like 6 8 months and counting.

 

I took a night school in photography with the basics course. Seem to understand the theory better than others. Just getting pretty ordinary pix. Cannot blur and getting washed out colours. Will ask him tomm at the class. We used Fuji Xtra 400 photo film.

[RaymondC]

The picture is included.

This was done with a Canon 88 body, 35-70/4-5.6 at 49mm AV mode F5.6

Look at the colours and the blur in the background - there is not any. Exposure was balanced with aperture priority. Will ask tutot tomorrow.

[RaymondC]

I scanned it off the photo paper which was developed and printed by my instructor who works at a pro shop. Will see him tomm..

[dick_van_nostrand]

A polarizer might help. You can get a variety of effects depending on the direction of the light.

[marshall]

Properly exposed film, processed correctly, shouldn't result in a yellow shift. It could be a processing problem (unlikely) or a printing error (though it sounds like the person printing is competent). Have you tried different films and conditions and established that this occurs consistently or that it occurs only in certain conditions?

 

I don't think I'd look for filters as a solution first.

 

Also, per the original question, if the green is too light, you probably need to learn to meter it directly and expose for it to look like you want.

 

Good luck.

[todd peach seattle, washi]

<i>

35-70/4-5.6 at 49mm AV mode F5.6 Look at . . . the blur in the background - there is not any

</i>

<p>

Try it at 70mm at f/5.6, move in close on the dog. That's as much 'blur in the background' as you can get with that lens.

[manjo]

A good polarizing filter can do the trick for you. Polarizer is a good friend.

 

"sometimes u take a pix of a landscape of green fields its light green instead. Perhaps a light yellow green colour."

This could be over-exposure. On a bright day if you open up you aperture inorder to blur the background, you should consider a neutral density filter.

[tom_mai1]

Another vote for a polarizer filter, as it helps removing glare from vegetation. So your 'green'(or the surface of a lake) would look more saturated. However, it would cut down the amount of light entering your lens.

[lachaine]

You've got pretty bright, direct lighting in that picture, from what I can tell. Using ISO 400 film, you may have had to use too small an aperture to get more background blur. An aperture of f/5.6 isn't large enough for that much blurring. Also, with very bright somewhat side lighting from the left, it's hard to properly expose both the grass and the right side of a black dog. I'm sure your meter averaged it as much as possible. Only different lighting or fill flash could solve that. That being said, a good polarizer can often improve the saturation of colours.

[david_h._hartman]

Bad printing and or a bad scan� or the subject is dark and the printer compensated to make the best image of the dog not the grass and the sky (bad exposure and lighting). Try softer light such as over-cast, open shade, window light, etc. Read some more books you probably haven�t found the right one yet. Cut the film speed of color and B&W negative film 2/3 to 1 stop, e.g. shoot 400 ISO film at EI 250 or 200.

 

The dog doesn�t seem to know what's up, ears are down. Give the dog treats, make funny noises, play the fool, make it fun for your dog! After a while the dog will learn pose when you get out a camera.

 

A Nikon L1Bc is a CC025M (very pale magenta filter). Other skylight filters are similar. This is of no consequence against bad printing, scanning, light or exposure.

 

Cheers!

[conrad_hoffman]

Direct sun is too contrasty. Some fill-in flash would help, or just a cloudy bright day. Agree- give that dog some treats!

[Carl Stone]

The dog's shadow side is underexposed, no detail in those shadows. Get closer to the

dog, and use fill flash to open up those shadows. Spot metering can also help here.

But, fill flash isn't gonna do snot for that grass. The quality of the light has had a

huge effect on this pic, as has been mentioned. Getting closer also means that you

have less background to deal with, fill the frame with the subject, as best you can.

Focus looks a tad soft all over, like there was some camera shake. Filter correction in

this case isn't gonna make an entirely different pic out of it.

[RaymondC]

We were told not to use a flash. I have another picture shot at AV F5.6 at 79mm abouts (35-80 lens). Its not a 35-70. My correction. So full focal length and full aperture. Exposure as instructed to as balanced (as by metering).

 

The pix is like a branch of a plant with the backdrop of a green hill. Despite these settings, the green hill was clear enough to see the rural road leading down from the hill. Perhaps anotehr lense is in order ...

 

What I have noticed is, this pro shop printery. I had my other nege's developed there before I took the course. This green/yellow tint was found in my photo's I took there before I commenced this course. It could be the printery - thou I did not use slide film I can not be so sure. Thou he is the teacher of this course, I presume he would of left them without any alterations...

 

I took 2 picture of the nege's which was developed at the pro shop, I took to a 1hr minilab. We won a coupon. And the colours were corrected by them. So ya, I am not so sure what had went on behind the scenes. I will ask him today.

 

This film used with this sample was fuji superia xtra 400 (provided tpo class). The one I used before this course was fuji superia versatile 400. The field trip was expected to be raining, then turned out fine. So we used 400 (instead of the should be 200).

 

Through the pix I got from the fieldtrip, there were some pix without this yellow/green tint that was taken like within 30mins of the ones with the tint. May be its cos of different lightening?? Or may be its printery??

 

R.

[RaymondC]

I will try a diff lab, see if this fix it.

I will also try a roll of diff film (photo) or should I use slide?

The ones I took b4 the course that had the tint as well, was done in AV mode (balanced with shutter), and also in AUTO mode when friends used it. In fact the majority of the pix were like this.

 

So should I use slide or photo in my next round? Different place to develop u think?

 

Raymond

[angel_o.]

Raymond,<br><br>

changing the lab isn't a bad idea but it won't solve the problems of this photo (nor would a filter do): the light is too harsh, there're no details in the shadows, the dog is out of focus and looks uncomfortable.<br><br>

For the light problems you have to shoot either in the early morning, late afternoon or on an overcast day. In addition, fill-flash might help to bring some details in the shadows. For the metering, you have to meter on the dog's fur and probably you'll need to bracket to know the right exposure comp. for your dog. BTW, lower speed film (e.g. ISO 100) will handle high contrast much better, and for blurring out the background at 80mm, using an aperture of F/5.6, you need to get really close to the subject.<br><br>

For cheering up the dog, play with him first; let him think that the "photo-session" is part of the game and enjoy the game yourself. Otherwise, he might fall asleep prior shooting the first frame. ;-)<br><br>

Good luck!