Advice for film processing in an apartment?

[leonard_evens]

I am contemplating downsizing from a house to a condominium. At

present, I only process b/w film in a Beseler drum with motor base and

scan both bw film and color film, developed by a lab, for digital

processing and printing with an inkjet printer.

 

I don't need anything elaborate in terms of a water source. Water

temperature from the taps in the bathrooms is likely to be pretty

constant because it comes from a large building source. But it might

be awkward to use the current faucets and basins. I can also use the

bathtub, but I also might have trouble with faucets. Also, my back

can't take too much bending over. My current darkroom has a mixing

value and lots of flexible hose, so I am entering unfamiliar territory

here. The last time I developed film in a bathroom was the early 60s,

and the type of bathroom faucets and sinks has changed significantly

since then.

 

I can of course modify the plumbing at some cost, but I would rather

not make radical changes. Does anyone have any suggestions about some

simple methods to use for such purposes. I would be willing to buy a

small Jobo processing unit if I could figure out the plumbing. Or

perhaps there are simpler methods to use a typical modern condominium

bathroom sink with the Beseler drum.

[david_goldfarb]

Well, I do it with a fair amount of bending over and awkwardness, so you might just look for an apartment with a lavish bathroom, large enough for a table or with a lot of counter space..

 

The temperature control is not too difficult, but you might pay particular attention to the amount of clearance under the tap. I have to use a smaller graduate to transfer water to a larger graduate.

[john_cook1]

When I was in school, in an apartment, in the 60's in LA, I regularly processed roll film in a Nikor tank and 4x5 in Yankee tanks with Kodak hangers (I now prefer Hp Combi tanks) in a closet.

 

I discovered that a sink and running water was necessary only for mixing chemicals and for washing the film. You don't actually require a sink for processing.

 

I set up "task trays" similar to what the medical people do for various procedures, and carried them into the closet to work.

 

There was a "dry" tray with an opener (for 35mm), scissors and reels. A second tray held the Nikor tank and two Patterson 1 liter cylinders with stop and fixer. Another set-up worked for sheet film.

 

The rest of the processing steps were done in daylight at the kitchen sink.

 

Check out Eugene Snyder's article on the Large Format website on processing sheet film with multiple Combi tanks. That's how I have done it for years. "Great minds" and all that...

 

You should have no problems in your new digs.

[john_cook1]

Gosh, it's tough to get old!

 

Make that "Eugene Singer".

 

Sorry, Eugene.

[brian_ellis3]

Forget the Jobo, get some BTZS tubes, use them on the kitchen or bathroom counter.

[wally_hess]

I live in a house, but my basement darkroom does not have running water. I have to bucket the water in plastic gallon water and milk jugs. I do my processing on the old kitchen counter in the basement in regular plastic trays and use water from the jugs when I need to.

I'm sure this would work just as well in the upstairs "real" kitchen so you could probably get by.

The only time I really use the running tap water is when I need to rinse film or final rinse paper.

It's not the ideal - I'm working on convincing my wife to let me put in a real darkroom with running water and large sink, but I'm suprised

at how well the present process works.

[tedharris]

Leonard,

 

If going the route suggested by John or Brian are not to your taste ... and they do work just fine ... there is yet another option. The JOBO ATL 1000/1500 may be just wahat you need. The unit measures ~ 21x12x17 see full info at >>http://www.jobo-usa.com/products/atl1500.htm<<. The 1000 is mechanically exactly the same as the current 1500, the only difference being in the number of custom programming features. Both units come from the factory with a wide variety of programs to handle virtually every B&W, E-6 or C-41 routine. The capacity of the unit is a dozen 4x5 sheets. Jobo has also recently released two other tabletop processors.

 

This is a production unit is is unlike the CPP/CPE series. It is basically a set, fill and forget operation with complete temperature controls and one hose that easily attaches to any faucet.

 

Mine sits on a rolling cart that I move around the darkroom and have even taken on location and run off of a battery a few times. I have the older ATL 1000 unit and it has been running week in and week out for 14 years without a problem. You can find them at auction in the range of $1000 these days ... maybe less.

 

Cheers,

 

Ted

[robert_davis2]

I'm not sure why you need anything special. Is the issue with the drum washing? Can't you use something like the Ilford low volume washing system? If you can't fit the tank under the tap no reason you can't fill a jug first then use that to fill the tank.

 

If you don't want to do that then Jobo makes a washing hose. One end slips over the tap the other fits thier tanks. You could switch from the Beseler tank to a Jobo tank and reel [4x5 right?] and still use the motorbase. The cost is a fraction of a jobo unit and if you decide you need the processor then you'll already have the tank and reel.

[neil_poulsen1]

I'm not a Jobo user. But, based on comments on this forum, if you get a CPE, you may need to add your own pump to circulate the water better. Apparently, that's a difference between the CPE versus the CPP/CPA.

[dan n.]

Sold in hardware stores and some convenient stores (RiteAid etc..) a rubber adaptor with hose that slides into the faucet, just get rid of the shower end. This adaptor is used to pets a shower in the bath tube....

[dan n.]

sorry....should read "used to give the pets a shower.."

[wayne_crider4]

I think one of the easiet methods to do bathroom processing is to get one of

those portable piano stands that would probably cost you about $29 and set it

up with the small legs in the bathtub or shower as I do. Put a peice of plywood

on top and you have a perfect adjustable table top for standup or sit down

processing if the toliet is close enough. Get one of those portable stand alone

water filters that attaches to the faucet with a outlet that you can adapt plastic

tubing to, and you can fill and wash easily. Mine has a high spout that I can fill

from in the sink. I personally use a fill and dump procedure for both print and

film washing but do use TF4 fixer. For drying get a bathroom clothes hanging

dryer that is a bungee cord that has clips on it, or get two hooks and put at

opposite ends of the tub or shower, a bungee cord and use clothes pins.

[bob_mccready]

Kitchen sinks are much easier to work with than most bathroom sinks. There is usually more room under the spout and a lot of bathroom sinks have curved bottoms, not flat. If you were thinking bathroom because it would be easier to make it light-tight, just use a changing bag or tent to load your film into the drum.

[ken_schroeder]

I second the recommendation for Eugene Singer's method with Combi tanks. I think it's the best thing going for use in a small space. It also allows intermittent agitation, which the Jobo does not.

 

If you unscrew the final filter of your bathroom faucet and take it to a good plumbing store, you may be able to buy an adaptor to convert the faucet to garden hose thread. Using that, it is a simple matter to connect a film washer hose.

 

An even simpler method is just to fill two or three plastic gallon jugs with water for both mixing the chemicals and as a wash.

 

As a fellow bad back sufferer, you will want to make sure your work surface is at a comfortable height. Making a very simple wooden platform to raise your sink top height is an easy project which will get you many thank yous from your back. At one point, I was tray developing sheet film in the basement and washing in the kitchen sink. It was quite painful for my back until I placed an inverted tray under the wash tray to raise it.

 

Some "dress rehearsal" time in the light will serve you well.

[bruce watson]

If it were me (and I know it's not), I would be worried about being able to work in the dark, dust control, water accessibility, especially for negative washing, and ventilation. All of these, for me, point to the kitchen.

 

I suggest considering a daylight tank of some description (the aforementioned Jobo ALT processors look intersting, but you would want one that would handle the Expert 3010 drum probably). There are other non-Jobo daylight tanks as well. The joy of a daylight tank is that you can load it in a small space that can be made light-tight, even a small linen closet. You can load film holders in a bathroom with a shower for dust control.

 

You could process the loaded dayligh tank in the kitchen sink, and wash using something like a Gravity Works film washer that you can attach to the wall, and that uses a flexible hose and screws into the faucet. When not in use, disconnect the hose. While you are working, you have the kitchen ventilation fan.

 

This would work great as long as you work continuously to keep the kitchen really, really clean. If you are using any pyrogallol based developer, don't mix it or use it in the kitchen! Photography is worth a lot, but not your health!

[ralph_barker]

It really depends on the design of the individual condo, I think, Leonard. But, with a bit of creativity, it's amazing what one can make to work. For example, when I got out of the military in the late '60s, I ran a small, mail-order B&W custom lab service out of the condo I was living in, using the downstairs 1/2 bath as the (wet) darkroom.

 

For the primary work surface, I found a floor-standing cabinet with a top of about 30" x 30" at an unfinished furniture store. I put casters on the bottom, so I could move it easily, and attached angle brackets to one side. The angle brackets allowed me to place a piece of 3/4" plywood, with 1x2 edge strips for additional rigidity between the brackets and the top of the toilet tank. That arrangement provided enough space for the enlarger and three 11x14 trays. To give a flat surface in the small bathroom sink, I took a round wire trivet (what you might use to cool a cake pan), bent about 2" of one side up at a 90° angle, and it sat nicely in the bottom curve of the sink. My only real problem was heat build-up during print making. So, I'd make a few prints, get them fixed, and then open the door to transfer the air volume. Not optimally convenient, but it worked.

 

Additionally, I think you'll find that many faucets use a standardized thread size for the aerator insert. Thus, a quick-connect hose fitting can easily be adapted to fit the faucet. The quick-connect fittings are a convenient temporary means of attaching hoses to run the water where you need it.

[david_goldfarb]

Great idea, Wayne! I actually have a folding keyboard stand for keyboards, and it's never occurred to me to get another one for printing.

[john_gerndt1]

Leonard, if all ou need is 20-30 gal of correct temperature water, fill a beach cooler, one that has a drain spout, put a hose on that spout. A large clip serves as a valve but a hardware store can set you up even better. It is too simple and cheap not to go with it.

 

John D Gerndt

[jtuck]

When there's too many dishes in the sink, I go in the bathroom. Too much stuff on the sink in the bathroom (girlfriend), I use the tub... When the tub is full (girlfriend also.) I can go do it at work ALL DAY!!!

[Jochen_S]

My plan to convert my own bathroom is to built a Jobo CPA over the toilets water tank and a support for a removable plate at convenient highth, to put trays or combiplans, on around the tub. faucets are really no problem at all.

[m0002a]

I don't exactly know what your pluming requirements are, but you might be able to hook up a hose directly to a bathroom sink. Unscrew the aerator assembly and take it to a good hardware store (I used Home Depot) and tell them you want to connect an ordinary hose onto the spigot and you need adapters to make the connection. The Home Depot person found two adapters, that when connected together, worked perfectly on my Delta faucet.

 

However, it is not easy to continuously attach and remove the adapters from the faucet with each use, so it would help if you could keep the hose attached between uses.

 

For a hose, I bought one specifically made for drinking water attachments on RV's that has less chemical off-gassing than garden hoses. I custom cut it to length and put on new hose connectors. I got my hose at K-Mart, so it should be available just about anywhere.

 

I tried to find an adapter that would fit my bathtub spigot, but was unable to do so. You may have better luck, however.