scott_dordick Posted January 22, 2001 Share Posted January 22, 2001 I recently (not by choice) used a roll of Plus-x 220-125 (shot at 100) for some studio portraits. I have not used plus-x in many years, but in the past I have always found the tonality of Plus-x to be a little flat. Does anybody have a developer / time / agg. combo that might give the film some sparkle? Rodinal? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Troll Posted January 22, 2001 Share Posted January 22, 2001 Rodinal is an excellent idea. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob F. Posted January 22, 2001 Share Posted January 22, 2001 What about another active, but not so grainy developer? HC110? How did you like D-76? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
guido_puttkammer2 Posted January 24, 2001 Share Posted January 24, 2001 Try Kodak's own Microdol-X at 1:3! This gives you moderate contrast, subtle tonality and fine grain. If you use the Microdol-X stock solution, the contrast gets higher, the grain even finer but the tonality isn't perfect anymore. Plus-X and Microdol-X are my favorite combination. And I tested a damn lot of films/developers! Guido Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
victor_lioce Posted January 24, 2001 Share Posted January 24, 2001 Scott: My only complaint about Microdol-X is it knocks the edge of the grain chrystals, which tends to leave the image a little soft. That's how it gives the impression of smaller grain. It's great for portraits, where sharp as a tack images are not as desireable. But if you use Plus-X for landscape or illustration work, I would go with one of the other developers mentioned. I like the Delta 100/Ilfosol combination much better for non-portrait work. Just my 2 cents. Victor Lioce Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trooper Posted January 24, 2001 Share Posted January 24, 2001 This may sound a bit boring and common, but since going to a cold light, my easiest printing Plus-X (FP4, too) negatives are done in D-76 1:1. I shoot it rated at 100 (usually incident metered and my true, measured speed) and develop normal to + 10% depending on the original contrast conditions. With my equipment and techniques (30 sec very gentle inversion), I find I'm burning and dodging less and still not blocking up highlights, but retaining decent shadow detail, too. I find this a nice, in-between compromise of grain edge/definition and smooth tonal separations for general photography in varying light conditions. I won't bore you with all of the combos I tried over the years but I found some that were interesting and worked well and the only one that really stands out as a system I almost went to was a line that Paterson was promoting some years back. I went to buy more and couldn't readily find it and decided there wasn't much future in getting married to that one at the time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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