Omni-bounce on 550EX problem?

[jeremy_craig]

I just ordered a Sto-Fen omni-bounce. My understanding is that for

indoor flash photography at closer distances (say less than 12ft), that

you are supposed to angle the flash head at 45 degrees.

 

Now I come to realize that the first click-stop for the 550EX is at 60-

degrees (ughh). Does anyone have experience shooting with flash at 60

degrees with or without finding out that lower parts of scene are not

covered by the diffused light? At what lens FL's are your results as

well?

 

I'm guessing that using 60-degree setting might be a problem, but can

also only hope that I can guess somewhat accurately where 45-degrees is

if I use flash head in an inbetween click-stop position...?

 

As an aside... why the heck not have a 45-degree click-stop on that

flash?

[._kaa]

Don't sweat the small stuff :-)

 

45 degrees isn't a precise number. What it really means is "point your flash somewhere between the subject and the ceiling".

 

Basically the angle will determine the ratio between direct-path light and bounced light. The higher you point the flash, the more bounced light you'll get. Probably there'll be situations where you'd want to point it higher and others where you'd want to point it lower. But it's not a dramatic difference, anyway.

[bruce_fuchs2]

My Omni-bounce lives on the 500EX almost all of the time. At various angles

to the ceiling or pointed straight on at the subject. The only time I take it

off is when I cannot live with the light loss (shooting something far away).

 

I know that you are not supposed to use it straight on--but I am not the

only one--I see lots of White House photographers doing the same thing.

[jordan_prussky]

this is not so much an answer as it a question, which is related. I have a 540ez and just got a sto-fen myself. How come when I use it at 45 degrees on "P" it always read wide open?? If I were to use it on Manual, I am to understand that you lose 1 or 2 stops. So if I wanted to shoot at F8, does that mean I will only get the distance of F11? This confuses me (hahah). If I use in "P" mode, straight on, it reads as it would normally does, anywhere between 5.6 and 16, depending on available light. help please!

[cgo]

Probably because when you tilt the head, the flash goes to its widest setting and no longer zooms to match the lens.

[jeremy_craig]

The omnibounce is supposed to be used at a 45-degree angle and is supposed to be effective even if there is NOT a ceiling at all present or if one is in a place with 50' foot high ceilings...effectively, the omnibounce is able to replace the need to have a ceiling.

 

I guess my question would be more along the lines of what happens with 60-degree head setting and NO ceiling, and whether anyone has such experience?

[bill_goldman]

I don't know where you got your information about the effectiveness of the OmniBounce when used without the benefit of a ceiling for bonce effects. It's my understanding that when a ceiling is not present, it's best to position the OmniBounce straight ahead.

 

As far as the effect at 60 degrees rather than 45 degrees, the OmniBounce is designed to provide approximately a 50/50 mix of bounced and straight ahead flash, as well as some spill over to the sides, when positioned at 45 degrees. Changing the angle will change the mix proportion, to a degree at least.

 

If you are concerned, run some tests at different angles and see how the effect changes.

[jeremy_craig]

Other posts here on PN, and even Sto-Fen's website, indicate that the head should be at 45-degrees when shooting any subject closeup to about 15ft - either with or without a ceiling. Beyond 15ft, they recommend straight on. Having a ceiling probably helps the "wrap-around" effect, but is not necessary, as the omnibounce itself diffuses light. It is supposed to be a highly effective tool for fill-in flash in outdoor shots as well.

 

Especially with Non-TTL lenses, you must tilt the head as it diffuses the flash output to the extent that light would go directly into the little sensor on non-TTL flashes and throw off correct flash output.

 

I would test out, except I wanted to use this weekend for a family function, and was hoping for someone with direct experience using the Omnibounce and how they've fared with bounce in 60-degree position and/or how they estimated 45-degrees. I would guess I could sorta figure out and put a line on the flash with some "white-out" ink.

[Ken Katz]

Jeremy

 

This stuff is not "rocket science" and you don't have to be that precise. I just eyeball the angle, based upon the height of the ceiling, the distance to the subject (closer to subject, the more verticle it goes), and the angle I'm pointing the camera.

 

Without a ceiling or a wall to bounce off of, it doesn't really do much softening of the light, but just spreads the light out wider.

[peter_langfelder]

Don't sweat it, anything between 45 and 90 degrees will give a decent result. The lighting will change a bit, but all positions usually give likable photos. Sometimes, if my subject is too close and/or the ceiling is too high, I even swing the flash backwards - with a white wall behind me it provides very even, flat illumination

 

There is no 45 degree click stop for a simple reason - without a difuser some of the direct light would reach the top portion of your photo, making the light look completely unnatural.

[bill_goldman]

I stand corrected. Sto-Fen does recommend 45 degrees with or without a ceiling. This is because the Omni-Bounce is designed to simulate a bare bulb electronic flash in which the light is projected at all angles up to a hemispheric pattern. However, I never worry when using it whether I have it positioned at 45 degrees or not. It's simply not significant.