Tips on contact printing

[wally_hess1]

I use an 8x10 contact printer setup consisting of a metal frame with

a dense foam rubber substrate and a hinged glass cover. This system

works fine for doing contact sheets of 35mm, 120 film when they are

in their protective sleeves, but now seems clumsy using 8x10 film and

wonder how others manage this process. After exposure, what do you do

with the negative to avoid damaging or scratching it? I have no

problem placing the film over the paper and setting them into the

holder, but afterwards I have trouble getting the film back off

without either scratching the paper or getting prints on the film

itself. Any ideas or recommendations? Thanks

[ralph_barker]

Cotton lab gloves might help.

[brian_ellis3]

You should be able to just lift the paper off the negative and then pick up the negative by one of the edges. Does the negative stick to the paper or something? I have a frame made by Doug Kennedy that's very strong, holds the paper firmly and evenly against the negative, and I've never had the problem you describe.

[john_cook1]

I had my local glass shop cut me a heavy piece of 1/2" plate glass, about 2" larger than the contact size, and nicely polish the edges and rough corners. I mark the area on the enlarger baseboard (with tape) where to place the paper, lay the negative on top, then the glass.

 

It seems so much easier, for some reason, to be working "right-side-up". Digging the paper and negative out of a traditional print frame was always a nuisance for me.

[piang_ngok_chong]

I have used many different types of contact proof printer, but find all of them a hassle. Like John, I now mark a frame on the enlarging board to fit the paper, then lay the negatives still in the transparent sleeve over the paper, and finally a glass sheet over the negatives. A nice thick glass is really nice, but in my experience, not quite necessary. This way I can run through many contact sheets without any hassle. My contact proof frames are now in cold storage. Chong

[wally_hess]

I am not using a protective sleeve for the 8x10 negative when I print. Should I? Maybe this is my problem. I assumed that the sleeve would degrade the final image.

I guess this process is just new to me. I know that when I enlarge, the negative is safely stuck in the carrier and I'm free to only handle the paper. Now I have to find a place to safely store the negative after printing with it, yet keep it handy for a reprint. This is part of the clumsy feeling I get doing contact printing.

[alex_hawley]

I keep an empty film box handy. When the negitive's out of the frame, I lay it in the box crossways so that one edge is down inside and the other is sticking out free. Makes it a lot easier to pick up and dust off.

 

From what I've read, a lot of the big-time 8x10 contact printers use a vacuum easel. Obvious advanages to that after working with a frame. However, a vacuum easel is a long way in the future for me, if ever. Once I got the routine of the print frame down, it doesn't seem so clumsey.

[piang_ngok_chong]

Sorry Wally. Misread your question. I thought it was contact printing for proofs. For my 5x7 or 8x10 prints, I put the "nude" negative on the paper, then a 1/2 inch thick glass on the negative. Before using the glass, I clean it with alcohol and then dry it with lint free cloth. After the exposure I merely lift off the glass and rest the glass on the enlarging column. The paper is then removed for developing. No hassle. The negative remained on the enlarging board which I kept very clean. No fear of scratching. If I need to make another exposure for whatever reason, the process is repeated. I think this is a lot easier than using a dedicated contact printer, unless it is for processes such as platinum printing (no experience here). I am of course talking about contacting printing using silver paper and exposing it in a regualr enlarger. Chong

[tim_atherton2]

Plus, if you use a contact printing frame with the removable back - the kind originally designed for POP paper, what I do after the exposure is flip the frame over, undo the back and take it out, lift out the paper and go and do the developing - the the neg still sits in the upside down priting frame under the enlarger/light. Spending half my time until recently working in a photo archives and museum, I wear white cotton gloves when I'm handling the big negs on the enlarger side - there's always a pair hanging out of my back pocket.

 

Several people make the frames. I like one that's just a bit bigger than actual 8x10. As well you get a nice contact between paper and neg.

[donald_miller1]

I have used a both a conventional contact (spring back) frame and more recently a vacuum frame (when I started shooting 12X20). A vacuum frame is a different device then a vacuum easel. Vacuum frames have been used in the graphics industry and with the advent of digital processing in that industry the used frames are coming up for sale. Cotton gloves will help in preventing damage to the negative, however I process Azo in Amidol and wear medical inspection gloves. I have found that keeping everything clean and dry is important.

[tim_atherton2]

http://www.greatbasinphoto.com/howto.html