F5 batteries in the Mountains.

[mitz_molo1]

I didnt expect the batteries to die so quickly. I got the camera out

of my pack and it lasted 40 minutes max. I managed to shoot a 28

frames and then it died. CRAP. Up in the mountain was about 6 deg c

and wind chill factor to 0 or below.

They were duracell... How long would Li-Ion last in cold condition

such as what I experience? I know that they are expensive about 4

times the cost which I cant see the value of getting it unless I go to

the mountains a lot.

All up for that set of batteries life.. only manage to shoot 6 rolls.

[ilkka_nissila]

I'd recommend lithium AA's, as they last forever in the cold (and even more in normal conditions). The Nikon NiMH rechargeable battery is a very good choice as well (although a little on the expensive side), and cheaper NiMH AA's are sold by, e.g., Kodak. The 1.2V NiMH AA's should last about 10 rolls per charge. AA alkalines are really only suitable for use in warm weather, as they get erratic in the cold.

[constance_cook]

When it's that cold if you use auto focus quite a lot, that's about right. Lithiums will last longer, but under those two circunstances, you won't get near optimum, which is based on -- optimum. I use the battery pack from Nikon but it is pricey but I figured that it's paid for itself over the long haul. I carry lithiums and a holder as a backup.

Conni

[ShunCheung]

For cold-weather related questions, I would listen to the guy from Finland (i.e. Ilkka). In both of my trip to Antarctica and my recent trip to the Arctic, I used Lithium AA's in my F5, and they can last 40 to 50 rolls around freezing even with a lot of AF-S usage. They are also lighter but quite expensive. The downside for Lithium AA is that once the juice is used up and the F5 starts displaying that "half battery" indicator, they pretty much die immediately. Sometimes you literally cannot shoot one more frame. Alkalines at least give you some warning beforehand.

 

If you shoot a lot, rechargables are a good option. I simply cannot justify the cost for the amount I shoot.

[lex_jenkins]

Has anyone had a chance to test the NiMH cells in cold weather yet? It doesn't get cold enough for long enough here in Texas to test 'em.

[efusco]

First, the wind chill is not a factor for mechanical devices (or people for that matter except for body parts directly exposed to the wind). Second, the advice above is good. I lived in Alaska for 3 years, usually I'd use the NiMH battery pack which performed well to -20F (brief exposure times of <2 hours). Lithiums were my back-up and performed quite admirably. Forget Alkaline except for cheap back-ups.

[cham_saranasuriya]

Do we need a special battery holder to use lithiums for F5? or could we use the normal standard holder? I used normal batteries in Fox Glacier (New Zealand) could get only 3-4 rolls out of a set.

[ShunCheung]

If you are talking about Lithium AA's, they look exactly like regular AA batteries and have the same size. In the US, at places such as WalMart or B&H, they cost almost $10 for a set of 4 though, and the F5 takes 8 of them. A few years back I have bought them for $5 for a set of 4 at Home Depot.

 

That is why I usually just use Alkalines unless I am traveling to cold areas.

[Jerry_]

Having done a little tour in central Alaska (mid-1984 to autumn 1987,) why not just find a good, used Nikon FM2n body and leave the F5 at home?

Save for the meter, the FM2n uses nothing but spring-power for the shutter. And it packs lighter in your hike up the hill.

[photojim]

I second Gerald's comment. If you are shooting landscapes, it will be far easier to use a mechanically-timed camera. If you want to shoot skiing or something else that requires fast autofocus and motor-driven photography, the F5 makes sense. But I have an FM2n and FT3 for cold weather; they're far more practical cameras.

[efusco]

Bah, I disagree with Gerald and Jim... You have an F5, it's a great camera, it will perform great with the proper care and batteries, use it. I own and used an FM2 in Alaska too, but the convenience of the F5 when your fingers are cold and you're trying to readjust the aperture and shutter speed on the mechanical FM2 is a pain. Sure I carried it as a back-up and yea I'd probably leave the F5 at home at 40 below zero, but it should work fine.

 

<p>Get an extra battery holder and keep it inside your coat so it will stay warm. If your batteries freeze-up you can just pop the warm one in and put the cold one inside your coat. The other thing to do is keep the <b><i>body</b></i> of the F5 inside your coat...leave the lens sticking out the zipper or it will get condensation that will freeze and then you're in big trouble trying to get that off. Nikon also makes a battery pack that has a wire that connects to the F5 battery slot. You keep the battery pack inside your coat so it stays warm while the F5 remains in the cold with no batteries. I think it's pretty expensive and would only make sense if you really are serious about doing cold weather shooting a lot.

 

Don't listen to the nay sayers, the F5 will perform admirably in the deep cold. Not that I'd discourage an FM2 back-up, it has lots of uses (do an archive search, someone asked about back up bodies and what one does with them), but you needed use the cold as an excuse for getting one.

[david_h._hartman]

If you use either Lithium (Energizer L91) or NiMH batters it

is very nice to have a spare, preloaded battery holder. You can

get a spare <a

href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh5/controller/home? O=productlist&A=details&Q=&sku=122450&is=REG"

target="_new"><u>Nikon MS-30 AA Battery Holder</u></a> for $33.50

(USD) at B&H. Ive stopped using alkaline batteries in

cameras because of their higher tendency to leak.<br>

<br>

If you use a Nikon F5 in the extreme cold I would back it up with

a <a

href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh5/controller/home?O=productlist&A=details&Q=&sku=220341&is=USA"

target="_new"><u>Nikon FM3a</u></a>. This type of use is the

exact purpose for bring the old FE2 out of retirement and giving

it a hybrid shutter that requires no batteries for manual

operation. The Nikon F2As and FM2n are well suited for this purpose

also.<br>

<br>

Any battery you use should have a repair or replace guarantee

from a company you trust.<br>

<br>

---<br>

<br>

<em>"Has anyone had a chance to test the NiMH cells in cold

weather yet? It doesn't get cold enough for long enough here in

Texas to test 'em." -- Lex Jenkins<br>

</em><br>

I cant help you with this question Lex but I can tell you

both NiMH(s) and Lithium(s) work well during brush fires and

earthquakes (So. California).<br>

<br>

Regards,

[lex_jenkins]

Good to know, David. ;> Probably safe to rely on 'em for Texas tornados and hailstorms too.

[ky2]

<p><i>"Has anyone had a chance to test the NiMH cells in cold weather yet? It doesn't get cold enough for long enough here in Texas to test 'em.</i></p>

<p>Lex, for what's it worth, I've used one set of fully charged NiMH rechargables on my Fuji S2Pro that lasted 3 days of hikes in Yosemite, on January this year. Temps were in the high 20's to low 30's most of the time. I never used the 3 other spare kits (12 batteries in all) and never changed the lithiums either (The S2Pro uses two sets of batteries).</p>

[cham_saranasuriya]

Interesting that a lot of people commented about FM3a etc but no one even mentioned F3?

[lex_jenkins]

Cham, I sorta implied the F3 when I asked how NiMH batteries hold up in cold weather. I was thinking of the MD-4 in my F3HP.

 

Do I get implied bonus points?

[michael_devoue]

I would have to disagree with evan re: user interface in the cold.

 

I live in alaska, have all my life, and have been out every winter for the past ten years to shoot- usually for aurora, and aurora happens frequently during the coldest times of the year.

 

I have used all sorts of cameras in these conditions, and the following conclusion is obvious to me, but may be preference.

 

My freezing-ass hands don't do buttons- I get SO frustrated making settings that I never use anything without a shutter speed dial and "real" aperture ring. My past favorites included a Nikon FM,FM2, F3(no battery necessary for "T",, to use AE or electronically set speeds, use an MD-4), and canon F-1 mech. I still use the F3.

Nikon states that the F3 is good to -20 farenheit, but I've done better with lithiums. Nikon has no posted info on the MD-4+lithiums, but Lithiums inherent voltage spike won't harm the robust circuitry designed to handle the 16.8v NiMH pack, whitch BTW, is also a very good choice, but hard to justify on a budget.

 

Buying another body may not be an option-

so try manually focussing if possible-

and for goodness sakes, carry spares- lots if you have to AF.

 

I have used F3HP's with drives for the past 8 years, and picked up an F100 about 40 days ago- the MD-4's needed fresh batteries(alkalines here) about every year- but I'm already on my third set of alkalines in the F100. Understandable, given the F100's higher demand and halved capacity.

 

Needless to say, I quickly realized the need to carry spares.

[michael_devoue]

I should add that I don't use the advance modes of the MD-4 in the cold; i.e. "S" and "C". I use the camera as if the drive isn't there. Extremely little current demand at reasonable sutter speeds. Static marks on film isn't exactly my bag, either.

[cham_saranasuriya]

Lex,

 

You are a genius!! But I do not think you deserve points for that because I could not understand that!!! I know it's because of me. Weldone!!!

[lex_jenkins]

Mebbe I'll go load some NiMH batteries in my MD-4, pop the whole rig into the freezer and see how it performs tomorrow.