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Thoughts: (Cheap) Manual SLR Nikon AND Used Cost?


cole_...

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Preface - I have: Nikon F100 and AFD glass. I can: Survive in a world

without AF, Matrix metering and "P" mode. My questions - 1) Please

offer concise thought on good (cheap) Nikon SLRs for back-up use

only. Repeat, back-up use with AFD glass. The more concise your

thoughts the better. Links welcome. 2) Please also offer observed

current cost of used units, @Bay and/or used merchants. Thanks in

advance for your thoughts and time. Take care.

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Cole: "Repeat, back-up use with AFD glass"

<P>

Does it mean AF and D-feature are still important to you? Or do you just want to be able to use those AFD lenses in manual mode?

<P>

Anyway -- I'd have recommended F65 if going for new AF body. But for a minor price difference I'd recommend the F80 over the F65 -- lots more features and easy for an F100 user to handle.

<P>

If buying used AF body would work, nothing beats an used F90x/N90s.

<P>

If AF body is not necessary, used FM2n holds great value. If money not a problem, I strongly recommend the FM3A. I have foresaken my F80 and F90x bodies for two new FM3A bodies (yes, you heard right) and never, never regretted doing so.

<P>

If I were you I would consider these in order of *decreasing* preference:<P>

<B>

1. New FM3A, or used FM2n if money is tight.<BR>

2. Used F90x/N90s<BR>

3. New F80/N80<BR>

4. New F65/N65<BR>

</B>

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How cheap is cheap for you? N80/F80 is cheap body for me. New one cost you $324.00. You can get it less for used one. If you already had F100 and AFD glass, certainly you can afford this camera. This camera is cheap enough to be considered "professional".
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I have an FM3a. It's wonderful. It's also $500 new. If you want something cheaper, the FE2s are basically FM3as without the TTL flash, as I understand it. Both of these can be aperture priority.

<p>

The local camera store has an FE2 in near mint that's almost as much as the FM3a ($450), but also has an FM2 for $300. FM2s have meters; the meter doesn't appear to be a match needle like on the FM3a, but is a +/- LED thingy (according to <a href="http://www.bythom.com/fm2n.htm">this review</a>).

<p>

Failing that, you could get an obsolete AF model; the one that immediately comes to mind is the 6006. Since you have AFD lenses, this isn't a problem. The local store says they have an F-601 (non-US) for $200 and a 6006 for $290. The interface is more like a the N90 than it is like your F100, though.

<p>

Or I suppose you could get an FE-10 and toss the shit lens it comes with. I found the FM-10 I looked at on a lark to be teensy, but I have large hands; the FE-10 will be about the same, just with autoexposure. Warning: plastic. New, $340 or so.

<p>

None of these suggestions will work if you get any G-type lenses. If you do, the best backup body is proobably something like an N80 ($500 new).

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Correction ,Graham: the FE2 has TTL and AE program(pretty much like the FM3A except for some design in the prism, brighter viewfinder,window on the back that allow you to see the cartritge yo inserted and hybrid shutter.

Cole, be more specific. How much cheaper you want it. There're serveral sources, including KEH, reliable and give you 6 month warranty ang good prices. Do you want for your back up a manual camera or an automated camera. We don't have a clue...!

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The Nikon F80 for the same features save for manual lenses, flash sync speed, fps, AF

module, and durability.

 

The FM3A for the same features save for AF, fps, matrix metering, spot metering,

and auto bracketing (one of my favourite features).

 

I might have missed a feature or two but ideally I'd choose to have an F80 and an

FM3A for backup for the F100 if weight was no concern.

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If it's a backup, I'd recommend something ultra-light (you do want to have it with you almost at all times).

 

N75 or N55 would work great (warning: N55 has no DOF preview and no TTL flash with external flash) (only get an N55 if you're on a tight budget AND if weight is really that important - get an N65 or N75 otherwise). Or a used FG or FG20 (FG20 has no TTL flash either). If flash really matters to you, FA or FE2 but those are heavier already.

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Hi Cole

How about a nice used F3. On eBay they seem to being foing for under $400.00, often with a motor drive. The metering is 80/20 center weighted and often, in my opinion is preferred to 60/40. The camera is built like a tank and takes a beating, offering excelletn view with the HP model. A true pro camera of another age. I also have a F100, and still enjoy using my F3. Another option might be the legendary F2as.

 

Just a thought

Rob

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To me, the F80/N80 is the obvious answer. The N80 provides most of the modern features in the F100 for a fraction of the price. Should you get a G lens or VR lens in the future, they can work on both the F100 and N80. The main drawback of the N80 is that it doesn't use AA batteries as the F100 does, so you'll need to bring extra batteries.
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Given that you did say "manual", my vote goes to the FE or FE2. I always keep an FE nearby, not just for AF backup but also because it's a capable and compact hiking/walkabout camera in which you can install a Beattie screen as I've done. It's in the $200 range, the FE2 $300 or so. Advantage over FM2: easier and more precise manual exposure control (at least in daylight) via needles, not LEDs. The next option: an F3 at $400, a much better camera than its smaller brethren, but twice the price of a decent FE. All of them built like tanks, batteries last forever, cheap motor drives, and the FE & F3 (not the FE2) will meter with non-AI glass in case you find some wonderful, quirky old Nikkor.
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Another great thing about the FG is that it can even use G lenses (although only in its P - program - mode). It tells you the shutter speed its going to use, but you have to guess the aperture its going to use. Still, its a lot more useful than an FE2 in this respect.
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Anthony: have you tried a G lens first-hand on an FG or is that just a conjecture? As far as I know the FG isn't a CPU body, it relies on the lens speed post (at the bottom of the mount) and on the AI aperture ring to know the aperture range that the lens can use, but G lenses don't have any of those. Best case, it'll think that the lens is AI (non-AIS), guess an aperture, then use stop-down metering when taking the shot - but somehow I have the feeling that it could end up being very very wrong in the way it estimates the shutter speed.
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  • 1 month later...

Cheap? My middle name! Nah nah nah. Seriously, I'd recommend used Nikons that you can buy with warranty. To me, the best bang for the bucks right now are the N8008 and N2000/2020 which go for $135-$160 and $80-$120 respectively in user condition online.Check out K.E.H. camera and maybe Adorama's used section. They have decent warranties. The 8008 has a 3.3 fps motor drive, aa battery compatibility, 1/250 second shutter sync, depth of field preview and is rugged as hell (Mine lasted 12 years without any problems with minimal maintenance ). In short, it was the late '80's/early '90's predecessor to the F100. I think it's a better value then the any of the FE series or FA. It also one ups the N6006. The N2000/2020 is light, has aa or aaa battery compatibilty (depending on battery holder), fairly fast built in winder (2.5 fps) but no depth of field preview. It does have excellent compatibility with manual focus only Nikon mount lenses (ai'd, ai, ais). It doesn't have shutter priorty mode unfortunately. Anyway, I think the N8008 is probably what you're looking for. FA's and FE2's are ridiculously expensive compared to the N8008 and that's WITHOUT the motordrive (another $200+!).

Good luck and Aloha,

Rob Sato

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