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Platinum prints.. do NOT look.. you have been warned.


james phillips

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I would be glad to contribute some platinum /palladium 5x7 and 8/10 prints. These will be seconds with small coating or dust spots but acceptable prints. The more variety of different prints the greater the appreciation of this wonderful process.

 

Who ever is going to mail these, send me your address and I will mail my prints.

 

Best Regards,

Robert

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With all this talk about platinum/palladium printing there are a few things to

remember. Like anything else it is not the best or even better. It is just another

process.

 

I print palladium and silver. I also make digital negatives and print them in

palladium. Palladium/platinum is expensive and time consuming and can be

wasteful and not every print will come out perfect. The thing is with platinum at

$360/100ml amd palladium at $180/100ml a 16x20 print is an expensive

thing to have to throw away. I find that I need roughly 3ml of metal per 16x20

print. And of course, not to mention the paper that runs $5-10 a 16x20 sheet.

 

Some days when things are not working (the weather can affect palladium/

platinum printing) I often wonder why I am doing this stuff.

 

I have been printing a 30 image show for a month now. It has been a slow

arduous process. In the end, the images will be lovely and exhibit a glow that

makes it all worth while.

 

Jorge is an excellent printer, his prints will be a real treat.

 

Michael.

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Michael is being too kind! I agree with him, pt/pd is not for everybody. Those of you who love Azo might not like them, same as Bill M who thinks they are too "mushy." Personally I think the depth, color and detail of a pt/pd contact print is unequalled, but that is me, and yes it is an easy process to use, but very hard to master. Like Mike said, there are many variables that make the print different from print to print, this is part of the charm but is also frustrating sometimes. When you do everything exactly the same and you get a print that has lower or higher contrast for no apparent reason it is very unsettling. OTOH once you get it to where the print is what you envision, there is no greater reward.

 

To Bill I will say that the type of paper used is very important as to the "mushy" effect. Some papers are too absorbent and produce that "veiled" or diffuse effect (which is great for portraits), some like the one I use produce prints as sharp and "hard" as any silver print.

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For Bill M.

 

"I find Platinum prints rather "muschey" compared to a good, hard, sharp

silver/gelatin print"

 

If platinum/palladium prints are made from flat silver negatives they will in fact

be flat and lifeless. But from a good palladium negative (1.75-1.90 DR) or a

good platinum negative (1.45-1.65 DR) and on a good paper the results will

be extraordinary.

 

Warm up the potassium oxalate developer to 100F and the prints will exhibit a

special warm glow. Midtone, shadow and highlight detail are lovely.

 

I also like Azo, but a fine platinum/palladium print is a thing of beauty.

Especially from a well crafted large "in-camera" contact negative.

 

An excellent example is my good friend David Michael Kennedy. David is a

great photographer and an incredible palladium printer. I own his "Hoop

Dancer" and everyone who comes into my home finds it to be an awe

inspriring experience.

 

Michael.

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Reading this thread was interesting. I print Pd/Pt (8x10 and 8x20 in-camera negatives) and am absolutely hooked on the look of a well done handcoated Pd/Pt print. The best description of a print of mine I ever heard was: "It's so incredibly sharp and soft at the same time!". Once I got the basic hang of this process (and I'm learning more every day) there was no turning back. At least for me ...
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