Reversing 50mmFD

[andrei_lau1]

I read from this thread http://www.mplonsky.com/photo/article.htm

and found this very interesting.

 

I try to use my digital camera and reversely connect a FD50mm lens I

have to try macro. However, I have a problem that if the lens is not

connected to a SLR body, the aperture opening is not fully open,

this make this doesn't work.

 

I try my FD100mm it is better as it seems it is always full open.

But the problem is that shooting with this have some vignetting.

 

Any one out there has any experience of reversing a 50mm and still

get the aperture full opened? Thanks for sharing.

[pvp]

Some of the earlier FD lenses can be locked into manual diaphragm mode by pushing the aperture linkage by hand (one way or the other, I forget which); it will lock into position and you'll be able to open the aperture. Most of the later lenses won't do this, and you need either a little plastic bit that came with the lens (and has usually been lost long before now) or the "macro hood." The macro hood is like a rear lens cap with the back cut out, and it also frees up the diaphragm to set manually. Hard to find, of course.

[gregory_nicholson]

Hello Andrei,

 

The way to make a Macro-Hood is to use a rear lens cap and drill out the center with a 1 3/4" Hole Saw. I used one that I bought at Home Depot for $4 and it fits into a small drill.

You can also glue on a Cokin 46mm filter adapter to the end. That, obviously, will allow the use Cokin filters on your reversed lens.

 

I've had better results when using the aperture on the lens that is mounted on the camera and not the reversed lens. Sometimes there is a need to be able to adjust the reversed lens's aperture. As when the lens is reverse mounted directly to the camera.

 

The lenses I have, that I reverse, are all different. Some will let you push the larger lever over(counter-clockwise) and it stays put, others don't. I don't know enough about the many different 50mm lenses Canon made to advise on this. But once that lever is pushed over then you adjust it by use the aperture ring on the lens, pretty simple. Stop down metering or hand held metering must be used.

 

I can say this, a 50 f/1.4 SSC reversed on a 100 f/2.8 SSC is very good. But the 100 f/2.8 won't fit your camera without an adapter. hope this helps.

[gregory_nicholson]

I forgot to add that once the macro hood or cut out lens cap is attached to the lens it will open the aperture fully. Just like it is when mount normally on the camera.

[John Crowe]

It has been along time since I have done this and I should go and try it first but here is the gist of it. Go through the process of putting the rear cap onto the back of the lens. Place it on the back in the usual way but only twist it about 1mm it is enough to release the aperture, now gently pull the cap back out without resetting the aperture. This takes practice but can be done. You can probably do the same with one of those miniature screwdrivers and press the little button that releases the aperture. The lever on the back of the lens activates the aperture and once released it is free to move. Once achieved find some household object, or a wad of paper or something to hold the aperture open making sure that you cannot lose it in the back of the lens. You should be set to go. I will try this tomorrow and post any more suggestions. Remember you only have about 3mm of depth of field (if that!). It seems to me that wideangle lenses are better for this application but I may be wrong. Good luck!

[andrei_lau1]

Many thanks to your responses. I try to use the rear cap to twist into position but the aperture seems not opening. But I haven't drill the cap hole yet. Is it necessary first to twist the rear cap, then to move the long lever to open the aperture?

[John Crowe]

Okay. I am sitting here with a Bayonet mount lens and a breech lock lens. The aperture in the breech lock remains open so you must have a newer bayonet mount.

 

This is very tricky!!!

 

Place the 3 flanges on the rear cap into the 3 openings in the back of the lens, as you would notmally do to put the cap on. Slight pressure down onto the cap begins to release the aperture and twist 1 mm (a tiny amount) clockwise to release the aperture completely. Now the tricky part. Lift up on the cap as to remove it, it will not come out because the flanges are stuck under the rim of the mount. Continuing to lift up, twist the lens cap counterclockwise without moving the aperture part with it! Pull the lens cap off, you will have to remove it at an angle leaving the aperture part twisted 1/2 mm clockwise. Grab the whole inner part of the back of the lens and rotate it clockwise until it clicks into place. Now, on this lens, the aperture is in the wide open position. It seems to me that some of the lenses I have had would still be stopped down at this point but then you move the pin sticking out the most clockwise and stick something in the slot to hold it there. In this position the lens will no longer mount on the camera or take a rear cap. To do so push in the lens release button and twist the inner portion of the lens mount in the counter clockwise position until it snaps back into place. Now you can put the cap on or mount it on the camera.

 

I know this sounds compicated but once you have done it 2 or 3 times you can do it every time!

 

I tried releasing the pins with a jewellers screwdriver but there must be more than the two visible ones. Oh, there I just did it! With the cap off of the rear of the lens and the red dot facing away from you, you can see a pin (a slot of metal) 1/4 of an inch to the right of the red dot. Push it in with a small screwdriver or knife or something and turn the inner portion of the lens clockwise. The pressure on the pin when you do this will keep it depressed. The second pin is located about 1-1/2" in the clockwise direction. Push it in while maintaining the twisting pressure on the inner portion of the lens, and the lens and aperture will rotate freely. When it snaps into place continuing as listed above.

 

Best of luck!

[billangel]

I've had very good success utilizing the Canon FD 1.8 lens (bayonet mount version) in reversed position to do macro work. I utilize it in conjunction with Canon's "Auto Bellows" and an older camera body (the F1-N).

As you appear to already own several Canon FD mount lenses, you might consider picking up a used body that was designed to utilize the FD mount,

(such as the FTb, the F1, etc. ) and either a bellows or a set of extension tubes. As I mentioned, the Canon "Auto Bellows" allows one to reverse mount the lens without any extra accessories, while maintaining full control over the aperture. I suggest this approach because macro photography is a lot of fun, and I would hate for someone to lose interest in it because they tried to do it with a patched together system, and were either disappointed with the results they got, or found the kluge system too difficult or awkward to work with.

[andrei_lau1]

John,

Many thanks for your detail advice. I'll try this tonight. Thanks again!

[14mm 2.8l]

Macro hoods are tough to locate but not rare! I got 2 of mine from purchasing the Macrophoto Coupler FL 55 and Macrophoto Coupler FL 52. These helicoil reversing ring Coupers are AWSOME!!!! Canon originally sold these different macro items together in one package. The helicoil becomes your focus ring.

<p> Remember that there are 2 versions of the Macro Hood. The first required the additional little curved piece of plastic that you attach to the apperature arm on the rear of the lense. The second hood has this feature built into it. So you need no extra piece. The second newer and improved macro hood has the grip edge and not the smooth edge.

[andrei_lau1]

Thanks for all yours contributions that make this forum really treasure.

Cheers