HASSELBLAD-Reliability (Body, Back, Lens)

[rick_strome]

I shoot about 2000 - 3000 frames a year and would be interested in

knowing what Hasselblad camera component has the highest reliability.

My 500C is about 35 years old. I have had my one lens(80 mm)

overhauled twice, my two backs once and the body once. I have a spare

back so I can take pictures without reloading as much. Should I also

get a spare body, or is the body reliable enough to forgo that?

 

How often should I get the above components overhauled to increase

the probability that I will not have a breakdown?

Everyone knows you need to do scheduled maintenance on your car at

certain intervals. Are there recommneded intervals for the above?

 

Thanks for advice on the above, Rick

[roland_haid]

Rick, that what i think:

 

The bodies of the 500 (including the EL-) series will generally work for decades without attention or maintenance. Some checks can be done by yourself: like the test of the flaps. Adjustments of the screen should be done at Hasselbald, but if your photos are sharp you don't have to. If you have jamming problems the camera really needs an overhaul. The bodies should be serviced every decade in principle. However, I don't think that even Hasselbald will relube everthing on a major CLA.

 

The 2000 series are generally not as robust as the 500 series: These should be treated with much more care. I don't think they will break down earlier, but if, repairs are costly and sometimes impossible. The Titanium shutter and the electronics, although the latter are robust, are items hard to remedy.

 

Backs should be serviced if the problems appear: light leaks and spacing errors. As these problems do not coming fast and most people have more than one back, you have time to react. I think, a CLA every decade is reasonable.

 

Lens need more care, but this depends very much on the use. If you work in a studio at constant temperatures the lens need less attention then if used in hard conditions: sun and rain. A CLA should be done every 2 to 5 years. The new CFi/CFE lens are more robust with an improved shutter in comparison to the old C types and propably won't need service in their first ten years.

 

As a good service comes never cheap, it would make sense for you to invest in a new body and a new CFi Planar 80mm. You get the best features from the newer bodies and you could keep your 500C as a spare. Do you have an Accute-Matte installed? I can't think taking 3000 photos per year with the old screen. Regards

[fotografz]

At the more reasonable prices these days, you may want to look

into a 503CW. Along with a D-flash 40, it's TTL ability could

further expand your Hasselblad shooting to include a little fill

flash for outdoor portrait work or lower light images. After all, one

of the delights of the system is flash sync at all shutter speeds.

 

So, more than just a back up body could be considered at not a

lot of extra cost.

[jay_.]

I always carry a backup body, they're small and light. I recently picked up a late-model (with the higher ISO flash metering)503CW with a few surface marks for $700.

[hasselblad technician]

Hasselblad recommends having the camera serviced once a year, but I don't think you need to have it serviced this often unless you use it very heavilly.

 

In your case, I would think that having it serviced every 2 - 3 years would be a good idea. Whether the camera is used or not, lubricants dry up and get gummy, and this will affect the operation of the camera.

 

As far as breakdowns go, the shutter in the lens is more likely to cause you a problem than the camera body or the film magazine. And the two most common parts that fail in the lens shutter are the main spring, and, in the case of the older C lenses, the flash contact. When I overhaul a lens, I always replace the main spring and the flash contact, as this will lessen the possibility of either of these parts failing. Having your camera serviced every 2 - 3 years is the best way to keep it in top working order.

 

Dave Odess

 

Factory trained Hasselblad technician

 

28 South Main Street #104

 

Randolph, MA 02368

 

(781) 963-1166

[christopher perez]

Based upon my experiences using a 500C/M, I have found the following:

<p>

<ul>

<li> Under certain conditions bumping the wind lever can cause the upper barndoor spring to bend. This causes the barndoor to 'droop' into the frame during exposure and requires repair.

<li> Film backs will require attention from time to time for repairing the frame 1 clutch mechanism. Sometimes this happens with new backs straight out of the box. Sometimes it happens many many years later. But it will happen.

<li> The front and rear alignment of the camera body should be checked. For whatever reason, my cameras body was out 0.03 inches. Enough to be visible in the final image.

<li> The mirror alignment should be checked to confirm that what you focus on through the groundglass matches what the film sees. Again, for whatever reason, my camers mirror was out 0.01 inches. This was enough to make the film plane think an object was 6 feet away when it was actually 5 feet. And this you can very definitely see in the final result.

</ul>

<p>

These potential problem areas may be common to more than the 500C/M. In talking with camera dealers/users at a recent photoswap, a large number of them suggested buying two bodies (in the least) as "<i>one will be in the shop and the other will be on it's way</i>". Due to my experiences with using this particular Hasselblad, I've purchased a used Mamiya RZ system. I've found no weaknesses yet in the Mamiya.

<p>

I hope this helps.

[hasselblad technician]

I would like to make a few comments regarding one of the posts:

 

 

"Under certain conditions bumping the wind lever can cause the upper barndoor spring to bend. This causes the barndoor to 'droop' into the frame during exposure and requires repair".

 

There is a locking arm which prevents the winding crank (or winding knob)from advancing until you let go of the release button. If you were able to advance the winding crank before you let go of the release button, the mirror would come down and bend the upper flap. If this locking arm is adjusted properly, it would not be possible to cause the upper flap to bend. In all cases of a "drooping" upper flap, it's because the locking arm is not adjusted properly.

 

 

 

"Film backs will require attention from time to time for repairing the frame 1 clutch mechanism. Sometimes this happens with new backs straight out of the box. Sometimes it happens many many years later. But it will happen".

 

 

There is no such thing as a "frame 1 clutch mechanism". There are several things that can cause the first two frames to overlap:

 

1. The 3 screws that hold the number wheel to the counter gear get lose.

2. The 2 rivets that hold the 2 pieces of the counter gear losen up.

3. The rivet that holds the stop arm to the inner plate losen up.

4. The number wheel is not adjusted properly

 

 

"These potential problem areas may be common to more than the 500C/M. In talking with camera dealers/users at a recent photoswap, a large number of them suggested buying two bodies (in the least) as "one will be in the shop and the other will be on it's way". Due to my experiences with using this particular Hasselblad, I've purchased a

used Mamiya RZ system. I've found no weaknesses yet in the Mamiya".

 

Any professional photographer who goes on location, whether it be a wedding or any other event, must take at least one backup camera. Any camera can malfunction, whether it be a broken spring, a broken flash contact, or anything else, including dropping a camera. The "weaknesses" that Rick mentioned are not really weaknesses at all. Screws can losen up, springs can brake and flash contacts can brake in ANY brand of camera.

 

I take exception to the statement, "In talking with camera dealers/users at a recent photoswap, a large number of them suggested buying two bodies (in the least) as "one will be in the shop and the other will be on it's way". As I wrote, all brands of cameras are subject to breaking down. I have been repairing Hasselblads exclusively for 27 years, and, although I am probably prejudiced, I have to say that I think that Hasselblads are the best built and most reliable cameras that exist. If someone is having trouble with their upper flaps getting bent, or any other continual problem, they are probably having their Hasselblad(s) serviced by someone who is not qualified to work on them.

 

David S. Odess

 

Factory trained Hasselblad technician

 

28 South Main Street #104

 

Randolph, MA 02368

 

(781) 963-1166

[audun_sjoeseth1]

Davis S. Odess

 

Thank you! "they are probably having their Hasselblad(s) serviced by someone who is not qualified to work on them."

 

There are many old Hasselblads out there which are serviced by people not qualified or not serviced at all. These cameras often goes from owner to owner spreading a bad reliability rumour.

 

A Hasselblad is a camera built to last, and with proper care and proper service from time to time (depending on use) it will last forever. I bought my 501CM kit because it is totally mecanical, and I think it is fantastic that one can buy a brand new mecanical MF camera of this quality today :-) My next lens will be a top quality Zeiss tele that operates totaly mecanical (CF, CFi or CFE) :-)