Jump to content

Very Disappointed


stephen_w.

Recommended Posts

I just got some pictures back (4X6) from the lab (Walgreens) taken

with the following:

 

Fuji Reala 100

 

M6

 

35 'cron

 

50 Noct.

 

75 'lux

 

Olympus 35, 1:2.8 Stylus Epic(?); my girlfriends camera

 

The Oly beat all the others wrt sharpness and contrast examend with a

4X loupe, by far.

 

Sorry, no scanner

 

Same 1/500, 1:5.6; same day; same film; same subject; same lab; even

focused at infinity (inf. lock in the case of the 'cron.)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That's not really a good way to compare results. If anything, compare the negatives. There are too many variables before you get a final print.

 

I often use C-41 black and white film and use 1-hour lab 4x6 prints for proofing purposes. When I print the same image in the darkroom the results are usually hugely different. And sometimes the results from roll to roll vary a lot--using the same lab.

 

That's not to say the little Stylus Epic isn't a gem. I've read nothing but good things about that little f2.8 lens it's got.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I don't know what to tell you. I think Gandy said it best---shooting with a Leica and then handing over the film to your local lab (and a one-hour drug store, no less---not even a fotomat much less a real pro lab) is like Leonardo buying the canvas and paint and turning it over to the local quick sketch artist.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Probably 75% of the time, pictures taken with my Ricoh FF-9 (a late 1980s compact with a 35mm lens) are as good as with the Leica, but the Leica has interchangeable lenses, controllable depth of field, and doesn't have to focus in fixed steps like the Ricoh. Close-up shots can be a lot sharper, therefore. The Ricoh wins hands down for shooting in near-darkness though - it has active IR focusing!
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sorry but this proves absolutely...nothing. As mentioned you can't compare cameras in this manner unless they are side by side, same lighting, tripod mounted and you must use slide film (neg film adds a huge variable). If the Oly still outshoots the M6 and its lenses then you probably have an out of adjustment rangefinder.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Steve

 

You have a truly great Epic. Sell the Leicas and keep the Epic is the obvious solution. At f5.6 using the 35mm 'cron you might be hard pressed to tell them apart, but don't look at the print - look at the negatives. Perhaps the minilabs focus was off for the Leica roll.

Robin Smith
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Steve, I agree with Bob; go shoot some Velvia, Astia, Sensia, Kodachrome, or Ektachrome, then worry about sharpness. You shouldn't unless you have an viewfinder alignment problem. The one hour minilabs with their high turnover of employees are no good indication of the potential of your equipment, although some do produce good, mostly consistent results; but you have to watch them. If you are determined to only shoot color negative, my suggestion is to find a good professional lab, or at least a consistent minilab that is sensitive to your demands.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I see what you're getting @, but I don't think the analogy is perfect here. Steve's talking about Reala, whereas I think Gandy is talking about B&W. I certainly agree w/you, as others have pointed out, to the extent that any differences will be most apparent in the negatives, not the 4x6s. However, w/C41, I don't think the party doing the processing makes that big of a difference (how many people even do their own C41?), especially as compared to B&W.

 

-------

 

"I don't know what to tell you. I think Gandy said it best---shooting with a Leica and then handing over the film to your local lab (and a one-hour drug store, no less---not even a fotomat much less a real pro lab) is like Leonardo buying the canvas and paint and turning it over to the local quick sketch artist.

 

-- Andrew Lee"

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I just printed some more photos from my trip to Rocky Mountain Natl. Park taken with my 35 lux M, Ilford Pan F 50, tripod-mounted with cable release and used my Leitz V35. On an 8x10", the realism is a bit jarring- let's just say there's a glowing aspen going on. I somewhat questioned myself whether med. format would be nice, but I'm afraid my Leica M can truly do it all.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Steve, this problem of yours is really old. The only answer is:

 

"MAKE ONLY A-B COMPARISONS" (capitals here do mean shouting).

 

This is/was exactly the same thing 40 years ago when we oldies compared "HiFi" needles and everything else were kept (by us) identical. Only the needles were A and B.

 

[Just in case you don't get it, what has to remain identical for you are: size (4X6 etc), the lab, the film type (e.g. Fuji Reala 100), the lens e.g. only a 50 and the object (e.g. your girlfriend). The only things you compare (A and B) have to remain singularily your M and your Oly.]

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thank you. I've had a terrible day, & this is the funniest thing that has happened. At

last a light-hearted moment.

 

Now, when you sober up, ask yourself why you posted this, how you went about

testing the cameras & whether your 'controls' were consistent, accurate & identical

with each shot. And when you conclude the Oly really does beat all that Leica crap, let

me know--I'll give you a hundred bucks for the Noctilux alone!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i shot some comparison pix with 60's Konica 35mm,45mmf1.9 lens against my Summicron.Moved film from camera to camera! Right on small prints at small apertures,no difference between M6,Summicron and Konica.

The Konica cost Canadian $20.! OK. Now compare at wide apertures,bigger blow ups! The Konica in the weeds.So if yo' GF getting better shots than You...maybe time to give Her the Leica.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Presupposing that you are right and even the negs back up the

concern...

 

then as has been said here many times, mechanical

rangefinders aren't for everyone. The focus is demanding

especially with a couple of the lenses mentioned. Poor exposure

can affect the contrast and apparent sharpness as can poor

handling. Then there is the use a processing place set up for

consumer averages rather than precision. I'd wager the Stylist

was auto setting at least f/5.6 or greater, and doing all the

focusing for the shooter. One is mindlessly accurate with-in the

bounds of average photos which it is preset to accomplish. The

M is just plain mindless (i.e. does little of the thinking for

you)...which means you have to pay attention or you'll get crappy

photos. That is the curse and the charm of these little cameras.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

couple things come to mind

 

a. This is just a troll

 

b. Your not that good of a photographer and have no business with a manual camera.

 

c. Your M6 is broken .

 

And what escapes me most of all is how the hell you can one spend THOUSANDS of dollars on equipment and then use cheap Walgreens processing. Unbelievable.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I didn't see if anyone else has pointed this out yet, but you can't possibly know at which aperture and shutter speed your Olympus is shooting. The camera gives no indication or control of those functions. If it did, then you'd have a Contax T3 and your wallet would be $500 lighter.

 

If you're shooting at f5.6 and developing your pics at Walgreens it really doesn't matter what camera you use, anyway.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...