Shooting models/fashion with an M kit

[_Alex_]

Hi All,

 

I'm curious how many of you do fashion/model work with a Leica M

outfit. I recently did some work with a model using only an M6TTL

(.72) and 50 'Cron. I know Mike Dixon uses M3s for his work, but

surely there are others out there that can share their experiences,

choices of lenses, films, etc. <BR><BR>

 

So, Mike and the rest of you, feel free to opine. Just so the femme

photogs don't feel left out, I'd like to hear the female

photographers perspectives (if you're out there) as well.<BR><br>

 

Links/pictures to illustrate would be nice too. A few of mine are

here:<a href="http://www.photo.net/photodb/folder?

folder_id=297601">Jill</a>.

[jay_.]

I've come to the conclusion that without AF, people-photography is hopeless for me. The only way I'd get sharp images of a moving model shooting her with a Leica would be to shoot her with a tranquilizer gun first.

[matt_m__toronto_]

i've shot some model stuff with my m2 and 50 lux. of course this all depends on working distance to suject and f stop, but i've never had a focus issue due to model movement as they usually only move a few inches (6-8) at most; i also try to move with them forward and back rather than focus with them.

 

stuff i shot was tighter than your work alex and i was quite happy.

 

my one concern with my 50 is not being able to get as close as i can with other 50's that i use say on nikon or rollei, but you can't always have your cake and eat it too.

 

m,

[_Alex_]

I was shooting predominantly at f8 and had the model stay in constant motion. I don't like the "freeze" poses. At f8 I didn't have to worry about the focal plane so much. I also metered with an incident meter and ignored my in-camera meter. I'd take a reading, shoot a dozen frames or so. Meter again, shoot some more. You get the idea.

 

I did find that I really liked having the M viewfinder. The lack of shutter lag and VF blackout was a huge benefit to me in that situation. I didn't realize how much of a difference it made when I was shooting in a dynamic situation as opposed to shooting static subjects.

[charles barcellona www.bl]

Well. for the types of shooting you gave as examples, the M cameras work great. Mike D uses this to a great deal of advantage as well.

 

Lighting is always a problem - and I noticed your shots are mostly in overcast conditions (or you had an overhead silk!). I think you'll find that a leaf shutter and strobe will have their place as well as the M in your bag of tricks.

 

Its like... would I shoot an outdoor wedding with a M camera? No way. Can't be done in my way of shooting. I NEED that hi speed synch. On the other hand, indoor shots, BW at the dimply light reception are ok with the M. Different type of shooting altogether.

 

You'll need to decide on what you're trying to convey, how to convey it, then pick the equipment that does it best (or affordably).

[Spearhead]

I don't particularly like 35mm for non-street people shooting, especially in the studio. However, I use a Mamiya 7 for this, in terms of shooting, it's more or less the same. Generally, I use a "standard" lens or the Mamiya 150 (about 70mm with 35mm) and Tri-X. It's the lighting that makes it though, not hte camera...<p>

 

<center>

<img src="http://www.spirer.com/images/ines.jpg"><br>

<i>Dark Star, Copyright 2003 Jeff Spirer</i>

</center>

[fotografz]

I've occassionally used an M for model shoots, usually as a

suppliment rather than as the main camera...which is almost

always digital firing directly to the computer. Every 20 or 30

images we break and review ideas then go from there. 1/50 th

just doesn't get it if there is any ambient lighting involved...unless

slight blur is what we're after.

 

However, for available light, more static shots and ones where

ambient light is so overpowered by strobes, then it's fun to shoot

with a M. You can see the exact moment of exposure.<div></div>

[jackflesher]

Am I the only one who finds the juxtaposition of Jeff's image on top of Marc's amusing?

 

;),

[ralph_barker]

I've been trying to use the M6 TTL more with models lately - usually in conjunction with another format. Works nicely using studio strobes if the pace of the shoot is relaxed (i.e. slow enough for me to focus). The slow sync speed hasn't proved to be a problem for me in my space, as I can keep the ambient light level low enough.

 

<center>

<img border=2 src="http://www.rbarkerphoto.com/misc/Dani/DP041703-0204c1-550bw.jpg">

</center>

[mike dixon]

Jack, I found Marc's and Jeff's individual images so compelling, I didn't even notice the juxtaposition until you mentioned it.<P>

The lack of shutter lag and blackout are two of my favorite things about Ms (or any rangefinder). For studio stuff, having the PC connector poking me in the forehead is my least-favorite trait. Shooting in available darkness is the Ms strongest suit.<P>

I find myself using a 50 the most, with the 75 a close second. For a few shots, the 135 makes a rare trip from the bag. I'm currently trying to figure out to effectively use a 35 for model stuff.<P>

I choose from a wide variety of films depending on the light and the look I want. Kodak E100S or E200 for normal, daytime or studio stuff; pushed EPJ for night shots; PanF+, FP4+, HP5+, and Delta 3200 cover the b&w chores.<p>

As Jeff noted, it's the light that's important. And, of course, your interaction with the model to elicit the best from her (or him). And your choices about wardrobe and makeup and such. The equipment's really the least of your worries . . .<P>

 

Shot with a new model recently (very new)--we were a bit rushed, and getting the right expressions was tough. The power supply on my film scanner had a meltdown (what a wonderful smell that produced) before I could scan more than a few frames. Here's a simply headshot made with the 75 'Lux on E200 at about f2 or 2.4:<P>

<center><img src="http://mikedixonphotography.com/mistycol01.jpg"></center>

[sheridan]

Shooting in a studio for the few promo shots I've attempted, I've found the little

M especially with 50mm lens is natural to use.<p> As the other guys have

said no finder blackout, and I've found 1/50 synchro for most shots is little

problem: more so is the synchro lead pulling out if you're moving around too

much.<p> Under controlled lighting (two monoblocs here) there is a tonal

range from those M lenses which is different to what I expected, quite smooth

and a pleasure to print up in the darkroom. <p><html><img border = 3 src=

"http://www.photo.net/photodb/image-display?photo_id=1468065&size=lg"></

centre></html><p><i>50mm Summilux. Tri-X. </i><p>...

[fotografz]

Jack, I didn't notice it until I posted. I wish I had made my image

larger. But it is an interesting idea for a different twist on

contemporary portrait work (no flames from the traditionalists

please).

 

Accidents are fun sometimes. Jeff, sorry for lifting your image...I

destroyed the file as soon as I posted it here.<div></div>

[Spearhead]

Jack, Marc, very funny :-)

 

<p>

 

<i> For studio stuff, having the PC connector poking me in the forehead is my least-favorite trait</i><P>

 

I always use a shoe-mounted slave with flash, which avoids this problem.

[mike dixon]

With an M3, even if you have a (cold-)shoe-mounted slave, you'd still have to plug it into the back of the camera. Maybe a little work with the drill and soldering iron could fix that . . .

 

Someone mentioined earlier about leaf shutters and high-speed flash synch. If you want that with a 35mm rangefinder, you can get it at a relatively-low price with a Kodak Retina IIIc. Even has Scheider-Kreuznach lenses (though the 50 is the only one that works directly with the rangefinder).

[jim_clifford]

I am torn because I love the look of the leica B&W but I am so hooked on leaf shutters for outdoor work. Here I used my M7 .72 with Noctilux at f1 in my studio with natural window lighting for this senior shot last weekend. Of course the shutter speed was quite fast but the trick is to nail the focus, which thankfully I did (although this tiny rez scan does not do justice to that). I use my Leica stuff (M7 or IIIf) whenever I have some lee-way with my clients. By all means use your Leica for portrait work when the conditions allow. Now if I could just make the jump to shooting weddings with an all Leica outfit I would be in heaven (anyone do that out there?).<div></div>

[fotografz]

Excellent portrait Jim.

 

I'm at about 50% Leica at weddings. Still have to go MF for the

shots likely to be enlarged big.

 

Did one last year about 80% M, and used a X-Pan for the rest.

 

This year I'm going to try one using all rangefinder work. Leica

M7 and Mamiya 7II.

[andrew_lee2]

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[andrew_lee2]

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