Buyer tips on Crown Graphics

[don_wallace1]

Simon, if the main reason for choosing the Crown Graphic is price, ok. Otherwise, I strongly suggest that you get a more versatile large format camera right from the start. I used a Crown Graphic for several years and I was quite happy with it until I really felt the need for back movements. I moved up to a Super Graphic and now I have a Wisner Technical Field. The Crown is perfect as a way into large negatives if you are on a budget. But it has very, very limited front movements and no back movements at all. It doesn't have front forward tilt which is important for landscapes but you can reverse the front standard (email me for directions if you want). You can fake other movements with a bit of gymnastics but it is HUGE pain in the arse to do so, believe me.

 

I love the Crown but I bought it only because I couldn't afford a better camera. The Super Graphic is a much better field camera with a wide range of front movements (more than a Toyo field, actually). It usually sells for about twice what you would pay for a Crown but it is more than twice the camera.

 

It really all depends on budget. If you have the dough, don't waste your time. Get a fully featured view camera right away. Also, DO NOT buy any large format camera from ebay unless it is from a reputable dealer WITH the right of return. Sellers do not seem to understand the phrase "light tight bellows".

 

I have a Graphic View II which has front and back movements that I have been thinking of selling (check out graflex.org). It is not a field camera but also an inexpensive way into large format. If you are interested, let me know. I guarantee the bellows in my own blood and will allow you to return it.

 

Don Wallace

[john_kasaian1]

Simon, FWIW this might apply to your street shooting: With a 127 Ektar, set your Crown 25 feet from a wall(sorry, I'm metrically challenged) and at f/32 focus at something on the wall directly in front of you(calender, thumb tack, ...?) use a loup to help you---it dosen't have to be expensive and even a magnifying glass will do in a pinch, just get it as well focused as possible on the ground glass, then set your infinity stops so that every time you open your camera and pull out the bellows, the front standard will stop at the exact same distance. In that position, everything from 11 3/4' to infinity will be in focus. You can use the sportsfinder for composition and just set your shutter speed according to your meter reading. If you do the same thing at f/16 focused on 50' everything from 24' to infinity will be in focus and you can leave the light meter at home and use the 'sunny 16' rule. If you're shooting with other lf photogs this cavalier technique will drive them crazy!

[syd]

Great tip John, I love stuff like that!

 

Regards, Si

[syd]

I just wanted to wrap this thread up and say a heartfelt thankyou to everybody who took the time and effort to share their advice and experiences. I didn't think I'd get such an incredible response but it's great to see that LF photography has so many among it's mileu in spite of the digital age (preaching to the choir here). I hope to grow into LF and with a little help from this forum and allot of my own personal effort and I am expecting a new dimension in photography to open up to me. From what I have seen so far it looks like a hell of a fun journey.

 

Thanks to all! Kindest regards, Simon