Portraits with medium format

[david_hedley]

I would like to know what set-up people would recommend for black and

white portraiture in formats from 6x6 - 6x9. Totally manual cameras

would be preferred - current ideas are (i) a Mamiya C330 with a 180mm

lense, (ii) a Rolleiflex with a 135mm lense (iii) perhaps an older

Hasselblad with a 120mm or 180mm lense? Or indeed, should I just

forget this, and try using my 4x5 with a 300mm lense, but I would be

concerned about maintaining critical focus with a view camera and a

subject that can move.

 

In terms of film, I am quite familiar with TMax100 and Tri-X, but I

would like to try TechPan in order to get the kind of "glow" that

makes b&w portraits so effective ; what ASA, filtration and developer

would you recommend for this film for portraits?

[andrew_schank]

David, I have gotten my best results with the Pentax 645 SLR. The camera + the compact 150mm lens is very easy to handle package, combined with the bright finder, auto winder, and very accurate auto exposure mode (plus TTL flash when needed) have been ideal for me. Since I usually go 8 X 10 to 16 X 20 with print size, I was cropping the 6 X 6 to the 645 rectangle anyway. I have made very high quality 24 X 30 inch prints with this camera. I don't know why I would need a larger negative unless I had a lot of space to exhibit monster prints larger than 24 X 30, which I don't. Cameras and lenses are very inexpensive now since the autofocus version has come out.

[russell_britt]

I .would reccomend the hasselblad withe a 120 or 150 lens.You can get a used ELM body for $400 on e-bay aused lens about $1200-$1500 a back about$350.If you shoot square you can shoot and not move the camera back and forth (vert.or horz.) and I really like square portraits.If you buy the best to start with you don`t have to buy again.I started with 645 camera 20 years ago and switched to Hassey about 16 years ago.If you get a 120 get the f4 not f5.6 as its much darker view finder image.Good luck.But your 4X5 can`t be beat.

[scott_eaton]

>>but I would like to try TechPan in order to get the kind of "glow" that makes b&w portraits so effective <<

 

Shooting with an orange or light red filter will accomplish the same thing with standard films.

 

Technidol is Kodak's standard soup for getting normal pictorial contrast from tech-pan and I've always had good luck with it.

[tim_brown]

The Mamiya C330 with a 180mm lens works for me. One nice thing about a TLR or rangefinder is that you can see the image at teh instant of exposure. Also, the Mamiya focuses closer than most rangefinders.

[chris___10]

I really like my Bronica ETRSi and the PE 150. I use all different films, my favorites for B&W are TMax 100, Tri-x, and Ilford Delta 3200. I haven't really cared for the portraits I have shot on Tech Pan, I prefer it for landscapes more then portraiture.

[alberto pastorelli]

Hello David,

I like to shot manual too, but for portraits I really find helpfull to use everything that can speed up the operations and leave me totally free to concentrate on the expression of the subject... making me able to catch the expressions I like.

For that reason, I can recommend the Pentax 645n, using it in autofocus mode, and in diaphragm priority (to easy controll the depht of field)

I find the combination of Pentax645n with the 200 f4 AF really grat for "head shot" , able to produce really sharp enlargements of 20"x28".

regards

Alberto

[michael_heal]

<p>Of the options you mention, the Mamiya C330 or the Hasselblad are the best options. I don't think the Rolleiflex with the 135mm lens will focus close enough. An 180mm lens will work, especially for head shots, but if you want only one lens something in the 120 to 150mm focal-length range is more versatile. For the Hasselblad, I suggest either the 120mm CFi Makro f4 lens or the 150 C or CF lens. If you select the 150mm lens, also pick up a 16mm extension tube. Of the options you don't mention, the Mamiya RB or RZ would also be an excellent choice.</p>

<p>You say you want a totally manual camera, but if you go the Hasselblad route I suggest you consider a 500 EL/M or ELX. The built-in motor drive gives you automatic mirror return and the opportunity to get a second shot as your subject relaxes. If you cannot abide the motor drive, get a 500 CM. The EL/M with the 150mm lens and 16mm (or discontinued 21mm) extension tube is the classic setup.</p>

<p><a href="http://www.heylloyd.com/">Lloyd Erlick</a> does a lot of black and white work with TMY and the Hasselblad ELX with 120mm CF. Although excellent results are possible with slower films, they are difficult to achive unless you have lots of light, as you need to stop down to f11 or so to obtain sufficient depth-of-field.</p>

[twmeyer]

I think Lloyd shoots wide open (F4). Great stuff, huh?... t

[dan_brown1]

Indeed, great stuff...

[michael_heal]

<p>Lloyd provides exposure and other technical details for almost all his images. He appears to use natural light, so is likely often pushing the limits of exposure times. From what I can see, he usually uses f8, but will use f11 or f16 when he has enought light. Even at f8, exposure times of 1/2 second appear relatively frequent. The f4 aperture is a wonderful advantage when focusing, but at these distances an exposure at f4 is going to give a very soft effect; e.g., the subject's ears and nose are going to be obviously out of focus. It's a matter of personal preference, but I think exposing at f4 is more practical outside when the working distance is larger and you want to throw the background well out of focus.</p>

[peter_olsson]

"An 180mm lens will work, especially for head shots, " (Michael Heal)

 

AND for anything from the waist and up! It's a great lens for

portraits and has very beautiful rendition of out of focus

areas close to the sharpness plane. For instance, if you

use a large aperture and focus on the eyes (and focus

carefully!) the part of the face and body that are out of

focus will be rendered very smooth. Combine this with

black and white film and the results are strikingly

gorgeous. The CF180 and the CF80 are a very useful combination

for portraits and Hasselblad cameras are of such inspiring

quality. An unexpected benefit of using my Hasselblad 503

CXi for portraits is that the portraied people likes the

sound of the camera release! It's true, quite often I hear

the comment that they like the way the camera sounds

(I like it too :-). This is one of the small details that

adds to the positive relationship between the photographer

and the photographed.

[gary_voth]

I picked Hasselblad and own both the 120 and 150. The 150 is my favorite portrait lens, but you will need the 16mm tube or an appropriate Proxar for a really tight head shot.

 

If you opt for a newer 503 body it will also take a winder. Tad slower than the ELM/ELX, but versatile and good. Plus you can remove it when you want to go light.

 

If you choose a Hassy body, make sure it either comes with or can accept an AcuteMatte focusing screen. Much brighter and contrastier, and makes focusing a lot easier. The difference is NOT subtle.

[hannu_sinisalo]

Hello David!

 

I have taken about 25 years my street photos with Mamiya Press (6x9 roll film holder) and I have found it very practical also in fast situations. It has a clear range finder, and there is no problems with fast focusing. I have used Mamiya Press also when I have been taking potraits, but then with 150 mm lens. To my opinion Mamiya Sekor lenses are quite sharp and I have been very satisfied with results (of course only b&w prints). And the price of the Mamiya Press (or Super 23 or Universal) and its equipments are reasonably low - in Finland body + 120 back + 150 mm is about 300-500 $.

 

But when I take potraits in studio (and also in available ligth outdoors) I strongly recommend Tele-Rollei because of its unbelievable sharpness, contrast and technical quality. And there is no problems with focusing between 1-2 metres with hinged close up -lens.

 

I have also used Mamiya RB 67 with 180 / 250 mm lenses, but then You must use quite heavy-builded tripod. RB 67 is also heavy and noisy - Rollei and Mamiya have leaf shutters with almost no sound.

 

But of course Tele-Rollei is quite expensive and also rare - only about 5 000 items has been made between 1959-704s - so if you find a excellent Tele-Rollei, it will cost at least 1000 $, mint even a lot more. But, I think its worth of it.

[hannu_sinisalo]

Hello David!

I have taken about 25 years my street photos with Mamiya Press (6x9 roll film holder) and I have found it very practical also in fast situations. It has a clear range finder, and there is no problems with fast focusing. I have used Mamiya Press also when I have been taking potraits, but then with 150 mm lens. To my opinion Mamiya Sekor lenses are quite sharp and I have been very satisfied with results (of course only b&w prints). And the price of the Mamiya Press (or Super 23 or Universal) and its equipments are reasonably low - in Finland body + 120 back + 150 mm is about 300-500 $.

 

But when I take potraits in studio (and also in available ligth outdoors) I strongly recommend Tele-Rollei because of its unbelievable sharpness, contrast and technical quality. And there is no problems with focusing between 1-2 metres with hinged close up -lens.

 

I have also used Mamiya RB 67 with 180 / 250 mm lenses, but then You must use quite heavy-builded tripod. RB 67 is also heavy and noisy - Rollei and Mamiya have leaf shutters with almost no sound.

 

But of course Tele-Rollei is quite expensive and also rare - only about 5 000 items has been made between 1959-704s - so if you find a excellent Tele-Rollei, it will cost at least 1000 $, mint even a lot more. But, I think its worth of it.

[hannu_sinisalo]

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

Hello David! I have taken about 25 years my street photos with Mamiya Press (6x9 roll film holder) and I have found it very practical also in fast situations. It has a clear range finder, and there is no problems with fast focusing. I have used Mamiya Press also when I have been taking potraits, but then with 150 mm lens. To my opinion Mamiya Sekor lenses are quite sharp and I have been very satisfied with results (of course only b&w prints). And the price of the Mamiya Press (or Super 23 or Universal) and its equipments are reasonably low - in Finland body + 120 back + 150 mm is about 300-500 $.

But when I take potraits in studio (and also in available ligth outdoors) I strongly recommend Tele-Rollei because of its unbelievable sharpness, contrast and technical quality. And there is no problems with focusing between 1-2 metres with hinged close up -lens.

 

I have also used Mamiya RB 67 with 180 / 250 mm lenses, but then You must use quite heavy-builded tripod. RB 67 is also heavy and noisy - Rollei and Mamiya have leaf shutters with almost no sound.

 

But of course Tele-Rollei is quite expensive and also rare - only about 5 000 items has been made between 1959-704s - so if you find a excellent Tele-Rollei, it will cost at least 1000 $, mint even a lot more. But, I think its worth of it.