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F3 Exposure memory


jim mucklin

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Exposure memory lock (page 20) it says to depress hold it in,

repositon and shoot, Do you have to keep the button in with one

finger and hit the shutter with another.

Thanks

Jim

One more: What part # do I want for a shutter release cable.

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Yes, you have to keep the AE lock pressed in. If this is

too tedious, you can always switch to manual.

<p>The F3 takes any standard ISO cable release. The Nikon AR-3 will

work and is very well made, but there's no strong need to

stick with the Nikon part. If you have an MD-4 and want

to use an electrical release, try the MC-10, MC-12, or MC-12B.

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Yup, that's among my main complaints about the F3 - the AE lock button is a momentary switch that must be kept depressing while recomposing and clicking the shutter. Very awkward, especially with the MD-4 attached because the motor drive's grip hinders access to the AE lock button. I wish there was a modification available to convert this to a press on/press off switch.

 

My old Canon T70 bodies had a momentary AE lock button but also had a locking collar around it to enable keeping the AE lock on without having to continually depress the button. Also the button fell more readily under the middle finger whereas the F3 switch is rather difficult to reach with the ring finger and is best activated with a finger from the left hand.

 

Also, don't try using the F3's AE mode with mirror lockup - the metering goes brain dead and will overexpose your shots. Save mirror lockup for manual exposures.

 

Likewise, don't bother using exposure compensation with manual exposure - it won't work. Exposure comp works only in AE mode.

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The AE lock does have to stay depressed while you fire the shutter, and (in my opinion) the F3's arrangement really takes some getting used to. The best Nikon MF body in this regard is the FE2, on which you push the self-timer in toward the lens mount. I have trouble using the AE lock on the FM3A because my thumbs are pretty big.
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