Why can't I get a straight answer about Nikon flashes?

[henry l]

I've been to about 5 camera store (including a few "pro" stores) and

have gotten wildly conflicting info about which flash I want.

 

I want a flash for my Nikon N90s and N70. I want it to be fairly

powerful and have a nice quality of light. I want it to expose

correctly almost all the time using Nikon's Matrix Metering TTL,

especially when used as fill flash outside. I want it to do remote

Matrix Metering TTL when hooked up to nikon's SU-4. I want it to

have a strong auto-focus assist lamp. And I want it to be capable of

high speed flash sync w/ my N90s.

 

SO:

 

will a used sb24 or sb25 do the job? How about an aftermarket Sunpak

or something or something like it. Do I really need the sb28 or sb80

to get all the above (which seemed to be the most common answer at

the camera shops)?

 

thanks for your advice.

 

Oh, and what the heck is an "autozoom" head anyway? do I need that?

[frank uhlig]

I thought the recommendations of the sb28 or sb80, with or without the d extension, were pretty good and right on for your requirements.

 

What then is your beef?

[photojim]

To get high speed sync you need at least the SB-25. However, the SB-25 was made for the F90/N90 and there is a rumour that the red-eye reduction doesn't quite work.

 

If this is correct, you're best with an SB-26, -28, -28DX or -80DX.

 

Strangely the SB-28DX works perfectly on my F90, including redeye reduction. So that worry might be false.

[ray]

I take it that you're not getting a 'straight answer' because most stores are not in the business of selling used/out-of-production flashes. No idea about the sunpacks. Have you tried contacting the Sunpak directly for some free brochures. Metz sent me some great brochures when I inquired.

 

The auto-zoom head means that the flash will zoom the flash head so that it puts out enough light to cover your viewing angle (based on which focal length you're at). This speeds up the recycle time and prevents the flash from chewing through the batteries by not lighting areas which the zoom lens can't see. No idea whether this will work with your cameras as this is somewhat dependent on the camera + flash.

 

Your best bet is still the SB-80DX. It has an awesome auto-focus assist lamp (much better than the SB-28) and it has built in remote TTL (no need to purchase a SU-4). It also has a great user interface and a much improved hot-shoe. It works just fine for 3DTTL (& D-TTL for digital cameras) and has high-speed sync (provided that your camera supports it).

 

I'm also go out on a limb and guess that it is a smaller/lighter flash than a sunpak (although I could be quite wrong on this last one).

[edwin_chung]

'autozoom' head in a flash means, when you are using a zoom lens, the flash will zoom according to the lens movement. i.e. if you zoom your lens from 85mm down to 28mm, the flash will adjust itself automatically for you. You don't really need it if you don't mind do it yourself (i.e. like vivitar flash 285) but most people like to have it (kinda like autofocus).

 

sorry I don't have an answer for your other questions. I have never had any problem with older nikon flashes (use with newer camera model). that is why they are always almost just as expensive as the new ones. If bounce flash is not important to you, you might want to try sb23.

[mark_jordan3]

Henry, An auto zooming head detects your lens' focal length and broadens/narrows the flash beam appropriately. Personally, I'm partial to the SB28, but certainly othere including aftermarket can meet your needs with the appropriate modules...study the features and make the choice you feel most comfortable with.

[jason michael]

SB-80DX all the way. It meets all your demands and then some.

[hal_bissinger]

<i>...I want it to expose correctly almost all the time using Nikon's Matrix Metering TTL, especially when used as fill flash outside. </i><p>

Well, contrary to what some might assume or argue, that rules out anything third party like Sunpak. If, as you say, you want a flash to work properly with a Nikon camera you need a Nikon flash. Much has been written on the subject here and I won't repeat it.<p>

That said, I would strongly recommend the SB-80DX. It's the current top of the line flash that replaces all previous models and will function with all bodies- new, old, film and digital. It offers several real improvements such as a metal foot (the previous plastic foot used on all models was prone to breaking) and a lever locking system that replaces the thumb wheel. Additions include a higher GN and a slave. Check the prices, these can be had for a few dollars more than the older models and well worth it. <p>

Certainly a SB-26 or SB-28/SB28DX would work well for you also. The SB-28DX may still be available new. I tend to stay away from used flashes particularly older/high mileage ones. My opinion is that they don't age well, at least not as well as cameras.

[Jerry_]

The SB-24 -- while a nice unit when first introducted -- is no longer under the Nikon 'fix-it' program. You may save $$$s buying one, but if it needs repair : you may not be happy.

 

You will need to practice with any flash you get, some tweaking may be needed depending on the time of day and position of the sun when you are out and about with your setup.

[shawn_rahman]

If you can spend the money on the SB80-DX, do it. I have an N90S and it is a wonderful combination. I've also tried the SB-25 (too old) and the SB-26 (too bulky). Also, the SB-80DX has the metal hotshoe which is a great thing to have.

 

The SB-26 in mint used condition cost about the same as a new SB-80DX. So almost a no-brainer there.

 

The SB-28 is the minimum I'd recommend wholeheartedly, and the SB-80DX definitely.

 

And yes, you need the auto zoom head.

[ellis_vener_photography]

The Sb-25, 26, 28, 28dx, or 80dx will all fill the bill for your current cameras. if you are intendingto get a digital SLR you'll need the features of the SB-28dx or SB80dx.

Auto zoom head means that the camera tellsthe flash what focal length lens you have mounted and zooms to the closest match, this is with AF, AF-D, AF-S & G type lenses

[gib]

why the heck dont you do your own research or are you just lazy? Just curious?

[frank uhlig]

William,

 

please recognize that nowadays, research is not fostered in our youngsters any more. If the answer is not on MTV, the question

has no answer. Self-help or self-reliance is a virtue in ill repute. Whining about "unclear answers" is the norm now. Student to teacher: "If you had told me what to do, I could have solved this math problem easily." Teacher's retort: "But did we not teach how to solve such problems last month/week?"; Student : "But not this one."

 

End of civilization at hand ... MTV wins, hands down.

 

Oh Henry, are you up into a steep learning curve in the course of life ... And may you come out resourceful and bouncing with ideas and understandings. Or just enjoy MTV and war games ... Your life/choice ...

[henry l]

Don't even start pontificating to me about doing research you snobs. I have a doctorate from the University of California (full-ride straight through) and teach at a major research university. I have done some reading on my own, and have talked to some people, and now I'm talking to some more people who've ostensibly used to products I'm interested in.

 

So save your snide MTV bullshit comments.

 

If you feel like being helpful, how well does the autofocus assist lamp work on the SB 25? I've been told the 80 is much better than the 28, but is there any difference between the 24, 25, 26, and 28?

[photojim]

As an aside, some of you have mentioned the metal foot of the SB-80DX as a good feature. Interestingly, Nikon designed the fragile plastic foot of older flashes intentionally. The idea was that if you impacted the flash into a wall, the flash foot would break and not the camera prism. The foot costs about $5 to replace; the prism costs about $300.

[joseph_wisniewski]

As many people mentioned, the SB-24, 25, and 26 are, essentially, the same flash. SB-24 is a little boxier, 25 and 26 a little more rounded. All share the same basic reflector and lens design.

 

24 - full matrix metering, rear curtain, and strobe

25 - adds FP high speed sync

26 - adds red-eye reduction and built in slave

 

Those three flashes have an excellent quality of light, very uniform from edge to edge, and a smooth falloff past the zoomed coverage range which tends to illminate objects outside the flash beam a little and provides just a touch of fill.

 

SB 28 and 80 have all the bells and whistles, equal power to 24-26, but in a smaller package. Unfortunatly, the pattern tends to hot spots, which you will notice if there is a relatively uniform, flat background (such as a wall).

 

Ciao!

 

Joe

[constance_cook]

Jim:

 

I had that very thing happen when a leg lock broke on my tripod. My camera, an 80 200 2.8 AFD with the Sb 25 hit the floor. The way it collapsed the flash hit first and the foot broke just as you said. I sent it to Nikon and had it back in no time with a new foot and checked for accuracy.

 

I have the SB26 now and other than the slave function there is no difference I can see between the 25 and 26.

 

Conni

[photojim]

Conni, that's exactly what it's supposed to do. :) You can buy feet from Nikon and install them yourself; it's a couple of screws and a plastic clip. Simple.

 

About the SB-24 being identical, more or less, to the -25 and later, the -24 doesn't support 3D matrix-balanced fill flash.

[constance_cook]

When it happened I wasn't delighted but after I saw how easy it was to repair, I thought it was a great design.

 

I know nothing of the 24 but the 25 I had and sold was different from the 26 only in the slave function as far as I could see.

 

Conni

[drymanphoto]

From my SB-28 "Magic Latern Guide" I read that the SB-28 is more compact and more powerful than the SB-26, minus the slave/flash function. The SB-26 is the same as the SB-25, with better red-eye reduction and the slave/flash function. That's all I can tell you. At a minimum, I go with the SB-26, but you are the one buying and using it. And how did this question turn into something about MTV? What a crock.

[drymanphoto]

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