ben_hutcherson Posted June 13, 2023 Posted June 13, 2023 I'll update this thread as I experiment a bit, but I noticed something odd a little while ago and I'm wondering if anyone else has seen this. I do a decent number of what you might call macro/product photos. Most are just sharing photos of things I collect, but sometimes to list on Ebay or other sites. I have a well-worked formula for this with my Norman strobes. Normally I use a Nikon DSLR(lately it's been my D810 but whatever I have at hand) and either a 55mm or 105mm Micro depending on exactly what I'm photographing. Since I tend to not move the lights/umbrellas that often or only in specific cases, I know the exposure and how to get a properly exposed photo. Basically it's set the camera to flash sync speed, set to base ISO, and set the aperture to give me proper exposure(usually f/16 to f/32 set on the lens depending on magnification, and will turn down the lights if I want to minimize diffraction or turn them up if I want more DOF). I connect the strobes to whatever camera I'm using with(relatively) ancient at least by 2023 standards with Quantum 4/4i radio slaves. They work, are simple, and have never let me down so I'm not really looking to change them even if there may be "better" options out there. I decided today to use my month-old X-T5. I've used this camera a decent bit-to the tune of about 3500 frames in various situations-since getting it and it has worked fine. I don't have a dedicated Fuji macro lens for it, so used my K&F Concepts F mount adapter. This is a "dumb" adapter, but does allow manual aperture control. Actually it even has click stops so you can sort of use G lenses with it, but I normally just use it to open the aperture for focusing and composition and the close for shooting. I've not used it a lot, but do know everything works fine with it provided I do my part. In any case, I set everything up using an 55mm f/3.5 AI Micro, set it to f/16 as a starting point(I usually start here then use the histogram to nail exposure by trial and error-I'm not in a hurry most of the time with this), camera at ISO 125 and shutter speed dial at 250. I stuck a hotshoe mount Quantum transmitter in the shoe, tested the set up manual(flash fired with the test button on the transmitter) and proceeded to photograph. To be clear, I have used this exact set-up with these same components as recently as Sunday, only changing out the camera body for a D810. The camera would not fire the flash from the hot shoe. I've experimented a bit more. I do not have a dedicated Fuji flash, but I put my SB-900 set to M in the hot shoe and it wouldn't fire. I plugged the Quantum trigger into the PC port and no luck. I plugged a Metz 76 MZ-5 into the PC port. Nothing. I've tried switching over to the only native lens I have-the 16-80 f/4. Also, in all of this, I've tried a variety of different shutter speeds, although nothing above 1/250. I realize the camera has no way of know that a flash is connected, but I've also never had a camera where the basic "dumb" flash connections like the PC port and the center/rail connections on the hot shoe didn't fire the flash. Am I missing something here? Is there a setting to enable flash function buried somewhere in the menus? Or do I have an issue with my camera? For reference, again, camera was bought new in box(16-80 kit) from B&H Photo with an order date of 5/15 and delivery date of 5/17.
ben_hutcherson Posted June 13, 2023 Author Posted June 13, 2023 Okay, I just found a setting that allows flash to be turned on/off completely. I turned it on set to manual/front(I'm assuming that's front curtain sync). I'll try again in a bit and report. I can't say I'd ever encountered the ability to disable flash sync...
FelixKH Posted July 26 Posted July 26 Just to check. Are the flash pins for Nikon the same as the Fujifilm? I use a dedicated flash for Nikon and Fujifilm.
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