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choosing a lense for portrait and macro work


nazir200_200

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i wish to buy a lense which can be used both for macro and portrait

snaps.whether its a zoom or prime ..no matter.

i know there are

24-85 g afs,24-85 2.8-4 d,28-105d.af,105mm 2.8 micro nikkor,

sigma 105mm.2.8d,tamron 90mm.2.8d af,and so on...

my budget is maximum 600$.i am expecting the great and

valuable advice from this forum.thanx in advance.nazir

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May I correct your question? Choosing a lens for portraits and choosing a lens for macro, that�s (2) two lenses.

 

The problem is macro lenses tend to be highly corrected for spherical aberration and therefore have rather harsh defocused background rendering. I think you�d be ill advised to use any of the macro lenses mentioned as a portrait lens. The number 105 is not magic, the 105/2.5 AI or AIS Nikkor is. One more thought: the sun doesn�t rise and set for AF lenses nor for zooms.

 

I own a AF 80~200/2.8D ED and a AF 28~105/3.5~4.5D Zoom Nikkor but neither replaces my 105/2.5 AIS nor my 105/2.8 AIS Micro. The 80~200/2.8 is too big and threatening for some subjects and the 28~105/3.5~4.5 is too slow. As one photographer put it "They�ll have to pry my cold, dead fingers from my 105/2.5." If you have an N80 don�t panic, get a small hand held meter like a Gossen Pilot for use with the 105/2.5. You can still come in under budget.

 

If you had a fatter budget I�d recommend an AF 105/2.0D DC based on reviews from reliable sources. I can�t afford one myself. I might also recommend the AF 80/1.4D (also based on reviews) or the 80/1.4 AIS.

 

I�ve seen really fine macro work done with a Tamron 90/2.8. The AF 105/2.8D is too expensive and gives up to much free working distance to achieve 1:1 without adding tubes so I�m not even interested in owning one. Also AF is almost worthless for macro so if you have an N90s, F100 or F5 consider a 200/4.0 AI or AIS (non-micro) Nikkor, 180/2.8ED AI or AIS. Both of these can be used with the PN-11 and PK-13 tubes and the 200/4.0 can be used with stacked lenses like a 50/1.8. Both make fine macro lenses.

 

Remember advertising copy is not written with your best interests at heart.

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I own both the 105mm f2.8 micro (AIS version) and

the 105 f2.5 (also AIS). I've taken portraits with both.

While there are differences in sharpness and bokeh, they

are subtle, and not always critical to the success of a

portrait. The 105mm f2.5 definitely has the edge for

portraits, but the 105mm f2.8 micro isn't far behind.

And of course, the micro is far better for close-up shots.

I'm not giving up my f2.5, but if I could only have one,

or only had room on a trip to carry one, I'd use the

105mm f2.8 micro as a dual-use portrait and macro lens.

<p>

I put a side by side comparison of the two 105mm lenses

at <a href="http://www.lanset.com/rcochran/battle105">http://www.lanset.com/rcochran/battle105</a>, so you can see for yourself the

differences rather than have someone talk about them.

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I have a Tokina AI 90mm f/2.5 macro. I got it when I saw the photodo.com

site first time in 2000. This is the lens with maximum photodo rating (4.6) that I can put on a Nikon. There's only one sharper lens in the world which is the canon 200/1.8 lens with rating of 4.8 which costs around $2000

 

This tokina costs only 150 dollars and give you super sharpness. No distortion or vignetting. What else you need? It's 1:2 magnification. So I use an extension tube to get 1:1. Yeah, you cannot use this lens

on a n80. I've compared this lens with many nikkors. Couldn't find a sharper lens. This is solid built lens too. If you want to find a problem with the image is that it's warmth. All tokinas are warmer than Nikkors. Still if you compare the pictures you will like Tokina better.

 

See the attached pic. The aperture 8 was not enough for this shot. Still I like the pic.<div>004pjC-12100584.jpg.b39e7670f50c58875473d8b92fc2f381.jpg</div>

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In your post "Response to fungus" you mentioned you have a 20, 28-70, 50, and a 70-300/4-5.6 The least expensive way for you to try macro is to use a Nikon 5T or 6T diopter on your 70-300 zoom. The 6T diopter will get you to about life size on that lens. B&H sells the 5T and 6T for around $45.

 

If you want a short telephoto lens both the AF 85/1.8 and AF 105/2.8 micro are fine lenses (I own both). The 85/1.8 focuses faster and is about half the size of the AF 105 micro. I don't know how well the 85/1.8 works for macro with extention tubes or diopters but I'm sure there are threads on photo.net that will tell you.

 

The AF 105 micro is wonderful lens, very sharp and excellent for close ups of stationary subjects (flowers, etc). AF is useless for macro work but I do use AF on my 105 for photographing people. Contrary to what some people say macro lenses are fine for portraits, I've taken wonderful portraits with my 105 micro and so have many others on this forum. A good photograph is more a function of the photographer than the lens.

 

Considering the lenses you already have if you are just starting to do macro work I would suggest the AF 85/1.8 for a fast telephoto and a 5T or 6T to use on your 70-300 for macro work. This is cheaper than buying the AF 105 micro. However, if you want to do a lot of macro work and need maximum sharpness then I suggest the AF 105 micro.

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thanks all of you..dear freinds............david...

chuck,richard,and jemini.yes i have a 300 mm..but when i use 5T, OR 6T

diopter with this slow lense..will it become again slow?any how i shall try that option.

jemini ..there are no outlets selling tokina lense ..here in dubai.

since i own an f80..there is limitation in use with AI,AIS.lenses.

from all of your;s usefull and inspiring advice,and comparing my pocket ,now my mind towards 5T,OR 6T DIOPTERS,

tamron 90mm,or micro nikkor 105 mm.thanx a lot..nazir

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I don't know if you've ever seen a diopter (also called a close up lens) but it looks like a thick filter and screws onto the front of a lens just like a filter. A diopter will not reduce the amount of light reaching the lens so your zoom will still be f5.6 at 300mm. Do a search on "nikon 5T 6T diopter", there are many threads on using diopters on zooms.

 

In general for macro work you will be shooting at apertures smaller than f5.6 to maximize your limited depth of field, so having a slow lens isn't an issue, I've never taken a macro photo at f2.8 with my 105 micro. However a faster lens is easier to focus than a slower lens just because the image in the viewfinder is brighter.

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