AV-1 For Landscapes

[danac]

Any camera should be able to make a "properly exposed landscape". Just learn how to do it.

Agreed but let me just say that while the AV-1 is a fine camera for what it was intended, it has given me an enhanced appreciation for manual mode and exposure compensation in cameras that are so equiped.

[jim_bielecki1]

This discussion has made me pull out my Canon AL-1, very much like the AV-1, but with focus confirmation. I forgot how compact and light this camera is. And the focus confirmation is dead accurate. Time to start using it again.

[danac]

Yesterday I made some prints of the AV-1 exposures. It turns out the negatives have all of the information necessary for really nice prints. I was mislead by the scans into thinking otherwise.

[Bettendorf]

Yesterday I made some prints of the AV-1 exposures. It turns out the negatives have all of the information necessary for really nice prints. I was mislead by the scans into thinking otherwise.

I'm right there with ya' brother. I've gotten several rolls of C-41 "process and scan" processing that turned out with lousy scans. I pop the negs in my meager CanoScan flatbed and it's a whole 'nother story. A difference between night and day.

[barryreid]

This discussion has made me pull out my Canon AL-1, very much like the AV-1, but with focus confirmation. I forgot how compact and light this camera is. And the focus confirmation is dead accurate. Time to start using it again.

 

The AL-1 is arguably a better camera overall, with its manual shutter speeds. Feels a lot more fragile though.

[danac]

I would definitely have an AL-1 were it not for the potential battery door issue. There is a mechanical fix for it but it's klunky. The tape solution is too ugly. I've mostly given up on the idea of getting an AT-1. It was never sold in the Japanese home market meaning no new-in-box examples. That leaves the rough hard used ones found here in the USA on eBay. Another all manual camera that appeals is the Pentax MX but that would entail a whole new fleet of lenses. My old Takumars would work with an M42 to K mount adapter but only in stop-down mode. Ah, so many cameras, so little time. Edited April 5, 2022 by danac

[jim_bielecki1]

I would definitely have an AL-1 were it not for the potential battery door issue. There is a mechanical fix for it but it's klunky. The tape solution is too ugly.......

 

You got that right. The battery door design on the AL-1 is terrible, almost guaranteed to break at some time. I fixed mine by drilling two small holes at the base and fitting a stiff wire under the door for support. It works, but looks like hell. Still, the AL-1 is an excellent camera. Small, light and compact and solid, and focus assist works well. A nice combo of features.

[barryreid]

I would definitely have an AL-1 were it not for the potential battery door issue. There is a mechanical fix for it but it's klunky. The tape solution is too ugly. I've mostly given up on the idea of getting an AT-1. It was never sold in the Japanese home market meaning no new-in-box examples. That leaves the rough hard used ones found here in the USA on eBay. Another all manual camera that appeals is the Pentax MX but that would entail a whole new fleet of lenses. My old Takumars would work with an M42 to K mount adapter but only in stop-down mode. Ah, so many cameras, so little time.

 

Back in the 90s started with Pentax and when I got more advanced went from an MX and SFX to a T90 and tried the AT-1 as a manual camera. Without wanting to encourage GAS, while the AT-1 is OK it's not anywhere near the MX. The MX has options like changeable focussing screens, Motor Drive as well as winder, which make it better and more flexible than any of the FD mount manual only bodies short of the F1 (even there the compactness of the MX closes the gap).

[Kent T]

Whether they were cheaper to manufacture is beside the point. Electronically-controlled cameras are superior to their mechanical counterparts in terms of features and reliability.

 

Sorry. The Nikon F, and F2, and Leica M-2 and M-3 will be taking pictures long after most electronic cameras are in camera heaven. And dependably. Just to name some examples. In Canon, the F-1 mechanical and FTb will be making images dependably when the electronic Canons are having issues. For landscapes, a nice FTb is a good choice for short money.

[Tony-S]

I guess you have never taken photos when the weather dipped to -30F and you were hours away from a place to warm up.

I already stated that extreme cold was a limitation. It was, in fact, a reply to you. Did you not see that post, or did you simply ignore it? And how often do you even shoot in extreme cold?

 

Features? As far as film cameras go, I can't think of a real feature that say an A1 has that makes it a better choice than an F1n or an F1N other than cool looking blinking lights.

 

I have all three. The A-1 wins on weight and included features. The F-1N requires the AE finder for aperture priority auto exposure, and requites either a winder or motor drive for shutter priority AE, both of which require batteries. The A-1 (and F-1N) also win with their fractional shutter speeds in AV modes. The A-1 and F-1N have much more accurate and reproducible shutter speeds than the F-1n when using the electronically controlled shutters. This is true for any electronically controlled shutter on any camera made by any manufacturer.

 

But heck, if you like all electric cameras, fine. Your choice. I don't. My choice. Kinda like an electric screwdriver is handy, but it's worthless when the batteries die.

 

I use my F-1N most and rarely the F-1n. And I always carry an extra battery - which I have never had to replace in the field.

Edited April 10, 2022 by Tony-S

[Tony-S]

Take out the battery and tell me that.

This is silly. It's like saying your horse and buggy are superior to a car without gasoline.

[Tony-S]

' date=' post: 5948599, member: 10999298"']Sorry. The Nikon F, and F2, and Leica M-2 and M-3 will be taking pictures long after most electronic cameras are in camera heaven. And dependably. Just to name some examples. In Canon, the F-1 mechanical and FTb will be making images dependably when the electronic Canons are having issues. For landscapes, a nice FTb is a good choice for short money.

And I guarantee you, the accuracy of the Nikon F, and F2, and Leica M-2 and M-3 shutter speeds will be off, unless you have their shutters calibrated every few years. Perhaps not a big issue with negative film, but potentially a serious issue with slide film. With electronically controlled shutters, they will be nearly perfect every time.

[chuck909]

And how often do you even shoot in extreme cold?

 

Often enough that a ZipLock bag is standard equipment.

[Kent T]

And I guarantee you, the accuracy of the Nikon F, and F2, and Leica M-2 and M-3 shutter speeds will be off, unless you have their shutters calibrated every few years. Perhaps not a big issue with negative film, but potentially a serious issue with slide film. With electronically controlled shutters, they will be nearly perfect every time.

 

And you know several of the electronic cameras have age related failures of their own. And there's something to be said about cameras designed to be somewhat repairable, and not so battery dependent (save for the light meter). Ask any Canon T90 owner about their fear of their camera failing them. I'd rather bet on the F-1 mechanical, F, or F2 long term over things with flexy PCB in them (and I happen to be an electronic technician in terms of background, by the way). Not knocking your point. But most camera repair techs I've known would side with the mechanical camera in the camera repair industry. That said in terms of an electronic camera, I'd trust a Canon New F-1 or a Nikon F3, or FM2 over most other electronic cameras. Those have earned their stripes, and aged better than most.

[chuck909]

This is silly. It's like saying your horse and buggy are superior to a car without gasoline.

Well, not quite the same. If I have to get someplace, I'll take the horse over an out of gas car every time - and so would all of us (unless you're afraid of horses). The point should have been a horse and buggy v a car that MIGHT run out of gas.

[Kent T]

Point is. I see more mechanical Canon cameras taking pictures reliably than I do the electronic models in terms of FD mount Canons. The mechanical models have aged better, and have proven more reliable as a type. I am not saying I don't admire the electronic models when working well. I see more Canon EF models even working better than an AE-1, AE-1 Program or T90 (which should be the more reliable models being newer vintage than an EF (the first electronic shutter Canon SLR). Which says something). When the Canon electronic cameras work, and work well, I and nobody else don't have issues with their performance. They take superb pictures. Which is why we're here. Which is my point. Remember, these FD mount classics are all getting considerable age on them. They're classics all. I prefer cameras which take pictures reliably over a camera which gives issues. The best Canons are always excellent to superb picture takers and even the lesser models. My first SLR was a Canon FTb, it took such excellent pictures that I still shoot pictures today. And Canon has had some teething issues over their years in SLR photography like many have over their many years building them. I also feel like their EF platform was superior to Nikon in terms of AF SLR cameras and DSLR cameras.

[barryreid]

Hmm.

 

You’re confusing mechanical with reliable, but citing expensive, pro level cameras which are engineered to last. I’d suspect most electronic camera failures are mechanical, because most of those cameras are engineered down to a price point and precision parts are expensive.

 

it’s the same with any other product, a £250 espresso machine will have a longer spec sheet than a £4k La Marzocco Linea Mini, but the latter can be serviced and will last far longer.

 

Back to Cameras, yup, there are a few with flaky electronics (Contax RTS, RTS III spring to mind) some of the most failure prone I know of are the OM-2SP, Contax 159 and Pentax P30. And guess what, in all three it’s predominantly because of mechanical issues. Respectively, wind-on, mirror mechanism, wind on. Wind-on also affects Minoxes, the typical electronic failures are 2 minute fixes for anyone with a steady hand, unlike the winder.

 

Many will electronic cameras have been binned regardless problems being mechanical or electrical. My Contax RTS II can’t be reliably used right now because it needs a CLA, not new chips - (I am able to work the shutter using it’s one mechanical over-ride and get a few days life out of it).

 

How many binned AE-1s would have been fixable? Probably quite a few but on cost-benefit, it’s (just) worth CLA-big an RTS II or T90 but an AE-1, not so much.

 

Further, a fair proportion of Canon F-1 prisms are now losing silvering - paperweight time. I sold my F-1 which developed this problem as there are now very few viable prisms available. This equally applies to lots of fixed prism bodies like Nikkormat, K1000, OM-1 bodies and some OM-3/4s where it’s game over.

 

Also, many cameras, regardless of shutter control, will by now have defunct cds light meters, as the early cells are dying.

 

In short there’s plenty mechanically/ optically broken cameras out there. Whether fully mechanical or not.