Jump to content

So many EOS choices...upgrade recommendations?!?!?!


j.e.t

Recommended Posts

I would like to upgrade my current Canon 35mm system and am

considering either the Elan 7E or the EOS-3. Is there really that

big of a difference between the two systems? Don't people

always talk about the lenses making the difference and not the

camera? I mostly shoot tabletop, people, and travel and would

like a system that is more rugged and reliable. I have heard

fantastic things about the Elan 7E.

 

Here is my other question. I would like to get two bodies and put

a Polaroid back onto one of them. Anyone know of who does

that? I heard about this company in Newton, MA who does that.

 

Anyway, would you recommend maybe putting a Polaroid back

onto a Elan 7E and then buying an EOS-3 for shooting, OR buy

two Elan 7E bodies and use the money saved to buy another

lens? Or just buy two bodies to have and put a Polaroid back on

my Rebel 2000? Can they even do that to a Rebel 2K?

 

Has anyone out there used the Elan 7E for professional shoots?

How does it hold up?

 

Your responses and recommendations are very much

appreciated.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The Elan 7 is an advanced amateur camera. The EOS 3 is a semi-pro camera. They're priced accordingly, and the 3 is considerably heftier and sturdier. It also has pro features like more focus points, a brighter and larger viewfinder, better low-light AF and so on. The Elan 7 is vastly quieter, much smaller and cheaper and has a built-in flash unit.

 

I would concentrate on getting good lenses, but you don't say what camera and lenses you have right now.

 

Polaroid backs are expensive and specialized accessories. You can buy them for the 1, 1N, 3, 1V and 600 series/RT. You can't get them for the Elan 7 or Rebel 2000 since they don't have removable backs.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You might consider a used EOS 1n for the Polaroid back setup and a Elan 7e or 7 for everyday shooting. The main difference between the 7/7e is the ability to AF at f8 and spot metering, plus 7fps. Other than that not much difference. It all depends on your needs for each.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

If I had it to do all over again I'd buy the 3, but thats just becuase I need a spotmeter. The Elan7 is a very durable camera, but the 3 leaves you with more options. I agree with the 1n idea. I was finally able to get one yesterday, and will be using it as my main camera. But I need the durability, and big view finder also! That is another consideration I have to give to soem. The Elan7 is a very nice camera indeed, Ilove mine. But the view finder is pain with my glasses. I don't take off my glasses for anything. If you where glasses, I suggest you take the small things like that into consideration also.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

OKAY, once again before you upgrade you have to ask yourself "Is my current system doing everything I need it to do?" "And do i really need to upgrade". Also yes lenses make a big difference, if your camera does everything you need it to do, I'd think about getting a couple of nice lenses.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for your responses. I just wanted to follow up to get an

idea of what all you 35mm shooters out there do when you are

on a professional shoot. Do you all have Polaroid backs for your

35mms? I just checked out prices for putting a polaroid back on

and it certainly isn't cheap!

 

Someone suggested I get a used EOS 1N for the Polaroid back

and then use an Elan 7E for shooting. Will the separate bodies

make a difference in terms of consistency between polaroid

shots and film?

 

For those of you who have the Elan 7E, have you found the lack

of a PC sync terminal to be a hindrance? Well, I suppose you

could just use an adapter....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I know pros who use Polaroid backs for medium format shoots but not 35mm. Makes sense - MF is a slower, more painstaking sort of approach to take, and a Polaroid of an MF-sized frame is legible. A Polaroid sized down to a 35mm frame is pretty tiny.

 

I think the usual approach with 35mm is just to bracket a lot or rely on flash meters for studio work, etc. Or go digital.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If they are the same price I would go for the 3 over the 1n (A LOT of pros ditched their 1n's for 3's when the 3 came out) They have similar build quality & the same weather protection. The 3 also offers AF @ F/8, ECF, 45 AF points, multi-spot meter(possibly my favourite feature of the 3) & improved AF performance over the 1n. The only minor problem with the 3 vs the 1n is that the 3 uses an infrred frame counter so it isn't compatible with many infrared films (although some report no problems using the 3 with some IR films)

 

As for comparing to the Elan 7E, unless there are specific reasons for wanting the 7E (it's the most you can afford or you need the light weight or quieter drive) the 3 is the easy choice

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i would buy the EOS 3 instead of the 7.

I bought an Elan 7 two months ago and wish i would have gotten a better body. Low light focusing stinks, no spot meter, and a few other nit picky things i dislike.

i am trying to sell it to move up to the 1V(no dioptric adjustment on the EOS 3) and i ahve used the 1V before and love it.

just dont buy something you will regret later

 

P.S. Elan 7 (put 6 rolls through) body only $300 have box and all

Link to comment
Share on other sites

<<I mostly shoot tabletop, people, and travel and would like a system that is more rugged and reliable.>>

 

Two things above make me suggest, as others have, a good used 1N: for tabletop and travel, the 100% viewfinder coverage of the 1N would be beneficial for composition. And, in terms of "rugged and reliable" IMO the 1N just squeaks in under the wire and the others don't make it to the race. (Sorry for my bias, as a former Nikon F-series guy, the only EOS whose build inspires my confidence is the 1V).

 

As for the Polaroid back, I've got to ask: why? Get yourself a used G2 (takes Canon speedlights)for checking lighting etc. But if you really want a Polaroid back, get a used one and get it cheap. With digital, people are dumping them on the market. (nobody knows how much longer Polaroid film will be around, but probably it will be the first confirmed casualty of digital).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You can get accessory dioptric adjustment eyepieces for the EOS 3 (they replace the eyecup and have an optic in them which changes to a new dioptre. I have a couple going spare. I believe I have a 0 and a -0.5 (standard dioptre is -1). They were left over from the previous owner of my camera and I have no need for them).

 

I love my EOS 3. It is incredibly responsive in a way that a consumer camera like the EOS 30 just does not have. The shutter button has a different feel (the 30 and other lower EOS models shutter buttons click when pressed fully. The 3 and 1 series shutter buttons are a soft-touch, and in use are much like a hair trigger (and users unfamiliar with these cameras often loose off frames accidentally)). I find that the 3's shutter button actually helps in not jerking the camera at the point of firing the shutter.

 

Viewfinder blackout on the EOS 3 is considerably shorter than the EOS 5 I had previously, which is slightly shorter blackout than the 30.

 

And yes, although the lens produces the image, the camera can make a major difference although it seems unfashionable to say so. When I changed from the EOS 5 to the EOS 3 my hit rate on flight shots in particular increased considerably. My images in general improved somewhat because the way the EOS 3 works actually forces you to put more into each image and work for the result a little more. The camera gets more out of you, and consequently you get more out of the camera.

 

The EOS 3 is a wonderful camera, and I'd choose it again.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Bought my Elan7 fully intending to buy a better camera at a later date. I am glad I di it the way I did as I was able to get my 70-200 2.8 before I bought the better camera. Another thing to consider that has not been mentioned, and it was also a factor in my knowing I would buy a better camera later is interchangeable focus screens. You said you shoot table top subjects. The EOS3 and 1 series have agrid screen which can be installed to help with mapping out your composition. Personally I have both the Grid and Scale for my 630 for this reason. I leave thescale in for everyday shooting and the grid for macro, landscape whatever.

 

Now I am faced with getting thegrid and scale for the 1N. Luckily I have a micro prism screens for manual focusing like the older cameras. This is one of those things I liek to look for in a camera that goes into a system, specifically if I intend on keeping it or using it as a main body.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

<a href=mailto:uce@ftc.gov></a>

A lot depends on the lenses that you have at your disposal. There

are important limitations to do with autofocus. For instance, the

Elan 7E will not AF below f/5.6, while the EOS 3 will AF down to

f/8.

<P>

The EOS 3 offers high precision AF for lenses f/2.8 or faster.

However, the EOS 3 does not have ANY sensors for vertical detail

for lenses slower than f/4 (only horizontal detail is detected).

<P>

When I was choosing a body to go with my 100-400 f/4.5-5.6 IS USM,

I chose the Elan 7E to make use of the cross-sensor at f/5.6.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...