10986431 Posted December 20, 2019 Share Posted December 20, 2019 Hi all Just got a Bronica ETR and it looks amazing. This is my first venture into the world of medium format cameras so any pointers would be highly valued. Everything seems fine and have got o ver my first issues such as how do I take the lens on and off etc etc. I'm stuck with one thing however. I have a 150mm lens and for some reason the AE finder (an AE 1 I believe) seemss to work and I can see the lights inside it but I can't see anything clearly in there sometimes theres a tiny red light in the bottom left sometimes its on the bottom right and then can move around the bottom, sometimes its green. i can not see it well at all and wondered what was going on down there and woondered if I should be seeing it clearer or why I might not be. I want to try and make sure I have worked out most parts of the camemra before running off a film and feel I've made good progress but this has stumped me, maybe somethings wrong? Also the camera via the viewer doesn't seem as sharp or as clear as I would expect. The view lens is a -0.5, that the correct one? Any help much appreciated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tom_chow Posted December 21, 2019 Share Posted December 21, 2019 This is a good place to start. Bronica ETR camera manual Zenza Bronica ETR AE-II Finder E instruction manual, user manual, free PFD camera manuals "Manfred, there is a design problem with that camera...every time you drop it that pin breaks" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
orsetto Posted December 21, 2019 Share Posted December 21, 2019 (edited) The lights at the bottom of the screen tell you the shutter speed automatically set by the meter system in the prism. A red light at the extreme left or right screen corner means the camera cannot make a good exposure of that scene with the aperture and film speed in use at the moment. A number lit in orange means the exposure is good but you should use extra support to steady the camera. Numbers lit in green mean exposure is good and you should be able to hand-hold steady enough. If one light is blinking continuously, the prism and camera are set to manual exposure mode (not AE). The prism instruction book assumes the camera owner is familiar with the basics of film photography exposure: it describes how the camera/prism fit within that context, but doesn't elaborate on how to use it (this was not a camera system that was bought by neophytes back in the day). If you aren't already familiar with the nitty-gritty of similar AE exposure systems from a 35mm film SLR or even a DSLR, you might want to study that topic a bit prior to exposing expensive medium format film. The -0.5 eyepiece is an optional non-standard vision correction lens, which is probably why you can't see things very clearly. The "normal" eyepiece for most cameras is either unmarked (no number) or marked "0". Depending on your own vision, even the standard normal eyepiece may seem blurry, so you might need a + or - correction lens of different strength. Try removing the current -0.5 (take out the small screw then pop off the framed glass eyepiece) and check if that looks clear: if so, you'll need to find the standard plain eyepiece lens to replace the -0.5. If not, you need a different + or- correction eyepiece. Accessories like eyepieces can be difficult to find, you may have to hunt eBay for awhile (or, return this camera kit for refund and look for another with standard uncorrected eyepiece). BTW if you wear glasses while shooting, it is very difficult to see both the screen and the bottom meter readout in the same glance: with many cameras, glasses wearers need to make an effort to look thru the eyepiece a certain way to see the meter readout completely and clearly. Edited December 21, 2019 by orsetto Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
orsetto Posted December 21, 2019 Share Posted December 21, 2019 (edited) Sorry, I was wrong above: unlike most cameras, apparently the "standard" eyepiece for this Bronica AE prism was marked "-1.5", so that would be the one to look for to replace your current "-0.5" if you need no (zero) correction. If you have relatively "normal" vision, your current -0.5 is way off, and will make the finder noticeably unclear or headache-inducing. Modern AE cameras of the past 15 years have had built-in adjustable diopters for simple dial-in clarity, older film cameras like this Bronica employed fixed, interchangeable eyepieces of different strengths. Edited December 21, 2019 by orsetto Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jamesevidon Posted December 22, 2019 Share Posted December 22, 2019 I too purchased a Bronica ETRS a few month ago. Like you, I was disappointed in the prism finder (AEII). I had trouble even making out the shutter speed readout. My first roll was all out of focus. I then checked the viewing lens and found that it had a +1.5 diopter. I ordered a +.5 after I found one and now I see what all the good words meant about the clarity of the prism finder. I just got a roll of Velvia 100 back from the lab, and WOW. So, I suggest you find what diopter works best for you and make the switch. I think that will clear up you problem. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
10986431 Posted December 23, 2019 Author Share Posted December 23, 2019 Orsetto and jamesevidon thank you so mich for your help here. This has really helped clear up what’s been causing me so mich confusion. I am on the hunt for a -1.5 eye diopter. I will update you with my progress here but thanks so so much. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SCL Posted December 24, 2019 Share Posted December 24, 2019 I swapped finders for the AEII finder, which has much more functionality, and then got a diopter lens in the proper strength and it made the camera much easier to use. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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