Carl Zeiss Planar 2.8/80 T* Shutter Problem.

[jpcalma]

I recently purchased a 500 C set up with this lens. The problem is no matter what shutter speed I set it to it is acting like it is set to 1/500th every time I press the shutter release. Also when I press the mirror lock up button, the shutter closes right away.

 

Any ideas what is happening here? I am working on uploading a video or the lens in action.

[jpcalma]

Here’s a video of the lens.

 

 

Carl Zeiss Lens Shutter Problem.

[orsetto]

It needs an overhaul: all speeds firing at an apparent 1/500th is a sure sign something internal is worn or broken. A spring has come detached, or gear gummed and seized. Unless you're personally familiar with servicing Hasselblad lenses, and have access to replacement parts, DIY is not recommended: give it to a repair technician. The service fee will be expensive, but good clean 80mm CF Planars are so ridiculously overpriced that its worth it.

 

Other lenses its sometimes cheaper to buy another and sell the dysfunctional one, but the 80mm is usually less expensive to fix than swap, at least in USA. Here, a good 80mm CF runs $550 to $700, one with this shutter issue sells for $300 or less, and the shutter repair fee runs $300 to $400. One way or another, a functional clean CF Planar is going to cost $550 or more. If you got this complete camera package at a bargain price, it could still be a good deal after repair (depending what techs in your area charge for shutter overhaul). All Hasselblad lenses require an expensive shutter repair sooner or later: if you fix yours now, at least you won't need to worry about it again for ten years and can just enjoy making photos with it..

 

There is a small chance the problem isn't in the lens but the 500c body, which is at least 50 years old. To check for this, cock the lens on the body and then remove it. Set the speed ring to one second. Look thru the back, and use a fingernail to press against the tiny firing pin (surrounded by a half collar, next to the slotted round cocking key). If the shutter fires normally at 1 sec, you have a body issue and the lens is OK. If the lens still snaps shut immediately, its definitely a problem in the lens shutter. REMEMBER TO RE-COCK THE LENS BEFORE PUTTING IT BACK ON THE CAMERA! Using a coin, turn the slotted key in the direction of the red arrow until it clicks and latches (this takes some effort, turning the lens with one hand and the coin with the other). Look thru the lens to be sure its fully open, then it is safe to re-mount on the camera.

Edited April 22, 2019 by orsetto

[jpcalma]

Any idea who to contact to get this fixed? Do I go straight to Hasselblad?

 

It needs an overhaul: all speeds firing at an apparent 1/500th is a sure sign something internal is worn or broken. A spring has come detached, or gear gummed and seized. Unless you're personally familiar with servicing Hasselblad lenses, and have access to replacement parts, DIY is not recommended: give it to a repair technician. The service fee will be expensive, but good clean 80mm CF Planars are so ridiculously overpriced that its worth it.

 

Other lenses its sometimes cheaper to buy another and sell the dysfunctional one, but the 80mm is usually less expensive to fix than swap, at least in USA. Here, a good 80mm CF runs $550 to $700, one with this shutter issue sells for $300 or less, and the shutter repair fee runs $300 to $400. One way or another, a functional clean CF Planar is going to cost $550 or more. If you got this complete camera package at a bargain price, it could still be a good deal after repair (depending what techs in your area charge for shutter overhaul). All Hasselblad lenses require an expensive shutter repair sooner or later: if you fix yours now, at least you won't need to worry about it again for ten years and can just enjoy making photos with it..

 

There is a small chance the problem isn't in the lens but the 500c body, which is at least 50 years old. To check for this, cock the lens on the body and then remove it. Set the speed ring to one second. Look thru the back, and use a fingernail to press against the tiny firing pin (surrounded by a half collar, next to the slotted round cocking key). If the shutter fires normally at 1 sec, you have a body issue and the lens is OK. If the lens still snaps shut immediately, its definitely a problem in the lens shutter. REMEMBER TO RE-COCK THE LENS BEFORE PUTTING IT BACK ON THE CAMERA! Using a coin, turn the slotted key in the direction of the red arrow until it clicks and latches (this takes some effort, turning the lens with one hand and the coin with the other). Look thru the lens to be sure its fully open, then it is safe to re-mount on the camera.

[orsetto]

The most popular recommendation is David Odess, a retired Hasselblad technician who opened his own mail order service. He has decades of experience and the best tools/parts, but like many similar one-man operations he has a wait list. If in USA, Hasselblad service dept in New Jersey seems to have quick turnaround times and pricing comparable to Odess.

 

Note that while Hasselblad gear has acquired a somewhat exaggerated mystique for being hard to repair, it was once very common and every decent repair shop routinely handled things like lens shutter overhauls (which working pros had done every year or two). If you tell us what city, state or province you're located, perhaps someone can recommend a local tech who you could meet face to face. Local techs can be significantly less expensive than Hasselblad's service dept or specialists like Odess.

 

There are pluses and minuses to either choice. A craftsman like Odess will literally rebuild the lens from the ground up, and charge accordingly. A local tech will fix whatever ails the lens fairly quickly at moderate cost, without being quite as comprehensive (in many cases this is sufficient for non-pro use). Hasselblad in New Jersey splits the difference: they're expensive, and you have the security of knowing the repair is backed by Hasselblad corporate, OTOH they typically don't perform repairs any better than a skilled local tech (they certainly aren't as dedicated and comprehensive as David Odess). Until recently, I used a local tech who charged half what Hasselblad asks, but he went out of business a few months ago so I'm looking for another tech myself.

[jpcalma]

I’m located in the Bay Area Ca.

 

I have contacted Lezot and they are willing to take a look at it and just charge me when they determine exactly what the problem is with an estimate.

 

If there are other options that’s more ideal then I will go with that.

 

Thanks again.

 

The most popular recommendation is David Odess, a retired Hasselblad technician who opened his own mail order service. He has decades of experience and the best tools/parts, but like many similar one-man operations he has a wait list. If in USA, Hasselblad service dept in New Jersey seems to have quick turnaround times and pricing comparable to Odess.

 

Note that while Hasselblad gear has acquired a somewhat exaggerated mystique for being hard to repair, it was once very common and every decent repair shop routinely handled things like lens shutter overhauls (which working pros had done every year or two). If you tell us what city, state or province you're located, perhaps someone can recommend a local tech who you could meet face to face. Local techs can be significantly less expensive than Hasselblad's service dept or specialists like Odess.

 

There are pluses and minuses to either choice. A craftsman like Odess will literally rebuild the lens from the ground up, and charge accordingly. A local tech will fix whatever ails the lens fairly quickly at moderate cost, without being quite as comprehensive (in many cases this is sufficient for non-pro use). Hasselblad in New Jersey splits the difference: they're expensive, and you have the security of knowing the repair is backed by Hasselblad corporate, OTOH they typically don't perform repairs any better than a skilled local tech (they certainly aren't as dedicated and comprehensive as David Odess). Until recently, I used a local tech who charged half what Hasselblad asks, but he went out of business a few months ago so I'm looking for another tech myself.

[orsetto]

Do you mean Lezot in Burlington VT, or is there a place with similar name in SF? The one in VT has a decent rep in general, tho I haven't heard anything about them repairing Hasselblad specifically. If you meant the VT Lezot, shipping to there and back to CA with insurance could add quite a bit to the final cost- perhaps you could hop over to Samy's Camera in SF and let them take a look first. if they quote what seems a reasonable price, you could save a good $50 on round trip shipping (and avoid unnecessary bumps and jolts).

[jpcalma]

That’s definitely the spot I’m talking about. Shipping to and from isn’t really a concern as I can do this from work for free.

 

I just got off the phone with Sammys and they said they can take a look at it and if they are gonna send it out it’s probably going straight to hasselblad.

 

I’ll probably head out there tonight and see if they take a look at it first.

 

Thanks again for the help.

 

Do you mean Lezot in Burlington VT, or is there a place with similar name in SF? The one in VT has a decent rep in general, tho I haven't heard anything about them repairing Hasselblad specifically. If you meant the VT Lezot, shipping to there and back to CA with insurance could add quite a bit to the final cost- perhaps you could hop over to Samy's Camera in SF and let them take a look first. if they quote what seems a reasonable price, you could save a good $50 on round trip shipping (and avoid unnecessary bumps and jolts).

[orsetto]

Ah, in that case of course Lezot becomes more attractive, esp if you've used them before. Shipping perks at work sure help! If Samy's wants to send it to Hasselblad in NJ anyway, I'd probably pass and try Lezot myself- this is most likely a run-of-the-mill shutter repair, not something exotic requiring Hasselblad's exclusive jigs. Good luck!

[jpcalma]

ICT in Mountain View Ca is being recommended. Apparently they can fix the lens and they’re not too far from me.

 

Gonna go check them out sometime this week. Thanks for all the help folks.

[andyfalsetta]

Have someone familiar with these cameras check it out. The shutter closing when you use the mirror up button is the correct operation of the device. When you select mirror up, the mirror retracts, the shutter closes and the auxiliary shutter flaps open (exposing the film to light if not for the shutter being closed) When you depress the shutter release, the shutter opens and closes the prescribed period of time (shutter speed) and then closes. When you then advance the film, all goes back to the normal state (flaps closed, mirror down, and shutter open).

[andyfalsetta]

Also, you want to follow Orsetto's suggestion and remove the lens so you can test it independent of the camera body. The shutter being contained within the lens is capable of its full function without being attached to the body. This will tell you if you have an issue with the lens mounted shutter or not. As for the body, once you have advanced the film using the knob or crank depending on how your body is equipped, when you depress and hold the chrome shutter release button a few things happen. The mirror flips up, the two auxiliary shutter flaps at the rear of the body open and the shutter mechanism is released. As long as you hold the shutter release depressed, the two flaps will remain open. You should be able to look straight through the body and see no obstructions at this point. Once you let go of the shutter release button, the two auxiliary shutter flaps should snap shut quickly. If you don't get all of these functions happening crisply, your body will need service as well. As mentioned above though, the shutter closing when you select "mirror up" is totally normal. One more thing; don't forget about the film back. They too need service. The advance mechanism gets gummy and the dark slide seal looses its potency. So if you decide to go for a service, get it all done at once and bite the bullet. Its possible the entire service could cost what you paid for the camera but I hope it doesn't. Good luck with it and let us know how it works out.